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Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323
419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
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| I recently purchased a 96 model Mazda 323 astina hatch and am more than happy with my little baby.My girlfriend made the mistake of leaving her bracelet on the top of my dash while driving,which inevitably has fallen into the windscreen air vent & down the ventillation system on the passenger side of the car.I have tried a few times to try to retrive it,pulling parts of the dash off here and there but all ive done so far is leave the odd scratch or crack on my pristine dash.I pulled the fan out from under the dash on the passenger side but no luck.Is it possible to find the bracelet without having to pull the whole dashboard right out off the car to get to the ventillation system?....yes it would be easier to buy her a new one i tried that,but its not about the money its the sentimental value.I would be very thankfull for any help.. | |
 I have a Mazda Protege with 185K miles. Recently, when I try to turn on the A/C, it doesn't blow cool air. What could be the possible cause for this? I was thinking a leak, but where? Also, Does anyone know where I could get a diagram that details where all the fluids chambers are located in my car? I know where the washer fluid and power steering fluid goes, but I really need to locate where the coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid go. Also where do I find the chamber that houses the Freon? If there is no diagram available, can someone instruct me where all these fluid chambers are located. Thank you, gia
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Replying to: giac23 (May 14, 2005 12:59 pm) >all these fluid chambers are located. Personally, I found the Hayes manual available for the 323 to be quite detailed. It has photos of the engine from the top and bottom with arrows and numbers to help you find stuff. -B- |
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Replying to: giac23 (May 14, 2005 12:59 pm) I believe you have either a 323 or a Protege. I see you've posted in the Protege Problems & Solutions discussion - that's a good resource for you. You might want to clarify exactly which model you have, though. I don't know if that will make a difference in the answers to your questions, but it certainly could. |
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Again, I haven't read through everything, but I thought i may as well post and see how we go. I have gone to so many mechanics here in Australia over this, and no one has fixed it yet. I've got a 4 speed auto right, and it stalls. Now everyone keeps telling me that it's not reving correctly at low speeds so thats why it's cutting out. However no one has succeeded in fixing this for me. It happens alot when I am reversing, in traffic like accelrating then braking constentaly, even at round abouts. Now i dont know too much about the technical side of cars, but the only thing one of the mechanics did for me was raise some idelling thingy in my engine, but another one who looked at it brought it down cos he said it was going to blow my gear box if i kept driving with it being so high. Is there a way to fix this without spending a fortune on some other guy who doesn't know what they are even fixing???!!!!
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My 1988 Mazda 323 died on the highway-no wasrning-just stopped running. Can anyone help me with what might be wrong? My son cannot find the problem. To the person whose whells would not turn-that is probably your CVC joints on front axle need to be replaced. Just had mine done. Any help is appreciated |
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to punkishbarbie: Try replacing sparkplugs and wires if you haven't already. I had sputtering and stall problems until I did that. I also found it easy to change the idle myself as it was a big, obvious looking screw on the top of the engine. If you have a tachometer, probably best not to go above 1000 rpms. to lurnjac: The only things I can think of are fuel pump failure, alternator (or wiring) failure and broken timing belt. Checked those? On a side note, I have an '87 323 with 203,000 miles. Running strong with no major engine work ever, good gas mileage and easy to maintain IMO. Why can't they make engines like this in American cars? |
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Replying to: lurnjac (May 21, 2005 7:54 pm) Did you discover your problem? If so, was it repairable? I also have an '88 Mazda 323 (std transmission) with about 128,000 miles. It has run very well and only needed routine maintenance to date. But now I have the same problem--it suddenly died while driving it. I have replaced all tune-up parts (plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap & rotor, and fuel filter). I also checked the resistances that I could check with a simple voltmeter per my Chilton manual. All that seems o.k. I don't think it's an alternator problem because the battery still had a good charge and would the engine for a good while. With the distributor cap off, I could see that the rotor still spins while ing. I am guessing that means that the timing belt is still in one piece; besides, I just replaced it about 20,000 miles ago. Removing enough hardware to see the entire timing belt is quite a job and I don't want to do that if there's a simple test to see if it's o.k. My Chilton manual does not contain anymore helpful advice to diagnose the problem. From previous posted messages, I gather that the vehicle has some sort of computer brain ("module") somewhere. Could someone enlighten me as to where it is and how to replace it? Also, is this an excessive expense to keep this car running? When replacing the fuel filter, there was some gasoline leakage. I am guessing that means that the fuel pump is still pumping. Is there a simple test for the fuel pump, particularly one that doesn't get you covered with gasoline? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
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Replying to: baz666 (Mar 27, 2005 7:42 am) The problem may not be in the FRONT of your car at all. If you have a rear defroster or rear wiper system, open the hatch and cut the rubber hose off of the wire bundle that runs into the roof of the car on the door. That bundle is really badly arranged and not very well insulated, and when things started going to heck on mine, that was the culprit - the wires had fused. (First the rear wiper, then the defroster, then the horn and brake lights, then the solenoid for getting it out of park...) We practically dismantled the whole car before we figured it out, so maybe I can save you some time. In the short run, if the wire bundle is fused, you can cut and crimp them all, but you'll have to rewire the bundle eventually. Have a care, the wires are flipping short and the plastic rim on the window is quite difficult to get off - you'll have to add more wire when you splice them. -Betty- |
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