Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 9:17 AM
You are in the Mazda 323
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Mazda 323, Hatchback
#60 of 455 Re: Mazda 323 Combination Switch problem. [nikgrey]
Mar 23, 2005 (7:36 pm)
Hi, Here in Taiwan we still see lots of Ford Laser (which is Mazda 323) runing, they are taxi here.. and your combination switch might be cheaper, if you want to provide a picture of your steeling wheel maybe I can ask my dealer for pricing.
BTW, I drive a 1992 Ford Laser GLX 1.6, AUTO tranny, gas millage is impresive, 14 km/litre in heavy asia city traffic, my tranny shifting is kicking from 1 to 2 gear, so I am going to do a rework on hope plate soon.
Mar 25, 2005 (10:22 am)
Hi! I have a 1990 323 LX sedan with manual steering. I wonder if its possible to install power steering if I'm able to find (used) parts anywhere. Which parts are needed, which other models have the necessary parts, is it necessary to change the steering gear, etc? I realize that its probably money out the window, I'm just interested in what it takes
#62 of 455 electrical problems- help!
Mar 27, 2005 (7:42 am)
I own a 1991 323 with the 1.5 litre engine and believe it or not it's got 375,000kms on it. So yes, it's a bit beat up but the little bugger starts and goes everyday. The problem I'm having is that the heater fan started cutting out once in a while then one day the wipers stopped working, both the front and rear wipers. Now I can't get the wipers or the heater fan to work. I've changed fuses, taken the dash off and looked for split wires or similar and can find nothing. I've heard people on this forum mention a "combination switch". Could this be the cause of my problem or is it something else?
#63 of 455 re: electrical problems
Mar 29, 2005 (2:33 pm)
Mid 80s-early 90s Mazdas are well known for having bad relays and circuit boards. The solder on the circuit board is weak and tends to crack with age and big temp changes or the grease inside the relay leaks out. The most common problem area for Mazdas are the wiper controls, headlight switch, and the ventilation control (if electronically controlled like in the RX7). Your heater fan problem is probably a bad heater fan switch or a relay if one is used. Your wiper problem is probably a bad wiper combination switch (which normally has an internal relay that is the source of the problem or a cracked solder). This combination switch is either in the steering column or on the instrument cluster depending on where the wiper controls are located. Be prepared because new combination switches are rather expensive.
I recently went through wiper problems on my 1990 RX7 convertible. The wipers would only work on low speed. The high, intermittent, mist, and washer wipe functions didn't work. A rebuilt wiper combination switch fixed the problem. The internal relay was what failed and I discovered via the internet that this is a very common problem on many Mazdas. Good luck on the repairs!
#64 of 455 1990 Mazda 323
Apr 21, 2005 (3:33 pm)
This is a message from experience.
DO NOT BUY AFTER MARKET MODULES for your 323.
The modules MUST be from Mazda. Our 323's Module died on us and we could not start the Mazda it was replaced by an after market module. The car ran for about 6 weeks and stopped. This happened with three different after market modules until I asked the mechanic if he used a Mazda module, I was told it was after market. I requested a Mazda module and the car has run without problems ever since. CAUTION do not use after market Modules as the program in the module is different in the Mazda product. It gets expensive to purchase them, when the investment of a few dollars more for a Mazda module is well worth it.
#65 of 455 Re: 323 lifespan [skib]
Apr 24, 2005 (5:59 am)
I have a 91 323 hatchback with 5pd transmission and 1.6 liter engine. It's got 375,000 kms on it (225,000 miles) and still running strong. Only problem is a few small areas of surface rust. The key to its longevity has been the constant use of high quality "orange" anti-freeze/coolant. It will keep your water pump running forever. And check your electric cooling fan regularly. If it goes out, the rad isn't enough to cool that hardworking little engine. Also, I use fully synthetic motoroil. Makes a huge difference in the life of the engine. Plus, don't forget change the thermostat regularly, like every year. It's only a couple of dollars and will ensure stable temperature. One thing that will require changing at about 200,000kms (120,000 miles) are the Constant Velocity Shafts. You can get these for about $80. each rebuilt. They are not difficult to install. If the old CV shaft won't come out, it means the circlip at the transmission end of the shaft has expanded and is jammed in there. You can try to use a long thin shaft through the other CV shaft opening and pop the offending circlip out with a deft blow of a hammer. But that's a longshot. More realistically, you'll need to dismantle the transmission end of the stuck shaft, do the same with your rebuilt shaft and attach the new part of the shaft. It's the CV shaft end at the wheel where the bearings start to grind and chatter. Hope this helps.
#66 of 455 FUEL TANK DIAGRAM - FUEL TANK HELP
Apr 25, 2005 (2:28 pm)
I hope I can get some professional help on this....I have a fuel problem...my tank in my 1988 mazda 323...seems to not be working...the fuel gauge shows quarter tank....but starts to stall once it gets there....i need some opinions on where i can find the "fuel floater" or even where i can get into the tank from the back seat to open up the tank.....i believe the hose that sucks out of the fuel tank maybe corroded or something...any help is appreciated!
#67 of 455 323 No spark and no fuel
Apr 26, 2005 (5:56 am)
UK 1992 323 1500 Carburetor, 5 speed manual
I have an internittent problem which usually appears after driving a short distance, say 2 miles or 5-10 minutes then stopping the engine. When I turn ignition on again the "Rear" warning light (which is supposed to indicate failed stop light) is on. Engine will not start and there is no spark and no fuel (dry plugs). Car needs to be left for 20 mins to 1 hour when it will then start OK.
Car is UK spec. Engine is a 1500 Carburetor (so no injectors), no cat either.
Disconnecting battery for 5 minutes or so makes no difference, fault is still there. No fuses are blown. Nothing electrical in engine bay seems overheated.
Does anyone have any ideas where the fault might be, which component may be failing?
#68 of 455 Re: 323 No spark and no fuel [pskirk]
Apr 26, 2005 (8:08 am)
Sorry, I made a mistake in the specifications.
323 SE Exectutive Registered 1 August 1990 1598cc 16valve SOHC Carburetor
"Rear" warning light is now on at evry switch on of ignition, goes out when engine starts. All rear lights including fogs are working.
#69 of 455 Transmission woes
Apr 29, 2005 (7:25 am)
Hello - I've had the car three years.
I've replaced the entire exhaust system, and the brakes twice, and two tires. She's got a little rust, around the doors and apparently under the driver's seat. I had to have the driver-side window and the windshield replaced. I've been rear-ended twice - she's working on rear bumper number three now - and smacked into someone right good and needed the passenger side headlamp and flashers redone a year ago. My rear window wiring has been cut and crimped until we can isolate the short that was killing my brakes and horn (which work now).
The car has 185k on it. I thought it was overdue for a transmission fluid change. That's when it all started to go wrong.
My mechanic, god bless him, did exactly what I asked him to do. What the Haynes, the Edmunds maintenance schedule, and the guys at Mr. Lube all agreed she was brutally overdue for. A simple automatic transmission fluid flush and filter change. The car drove for a day and a half, and then stopped dead in the middle of traffic. No, the engine didn't die, the car just stopped moving.
Thankfully, my mechanic is a resourceful coot and found me a replacement transmission box reasonably cheap (<100 Cdn). We figure the tranny fluid cleaned the engine out and dumped thirteen years worth of oil and carbon and metal filings right into my all-electrical digitally controlled transmission. The engine runs, she throttles beautifully, I can change gears... but the wheels don't turn. Is there anything I should know before we try to perform major surgery on my poor car? I seem to remember tripping over information somewhere that implied that you have to change the radiator at the same time you change the transmission, but now I can't find it. Anyone know anything about that? I'm hoping we can resurrect her. I'm kind of attached to her, and don't *really* have 3k to drop on a replacement right now, much less trying to find anon-domestic 15 miles a gallon replacement. [grr] -Betty- (wordartist)