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Mazda 323

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback

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#59 of 419 Mazda 323 Combination Switch problem. by nikgrey Mar 13, 2005 (5:53 am)
I have a 1989 323 1.8 Gti - 75000 miles.    My combination Switch needs attention, when I indicate left (with lights on) my full beam is activated - I find that this annoys other road users. Also (this problem has been present for many years) when trying to turn the lights off I find that I need to indicate right in order to do this.    Obviously the switch is getting old, I have had a quote from a Mazda dealer - £125.00 Before I take the plunge and purchase this new switch I think it is worth asking forum viewers if there is any point in inspecting the switch and looking for any obvious problems which I will be able to repair myself.. The switch seems fairly easy to remove, but I haven't attempted to take the actual switch apart yet..    Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance. Replies to this message: hi3cmz (Mar 23, 2005 7:36 pm) mjmuir (Nov 21, 2005 5:55 pm)
#60 of 419 Re: Mazda 323 Combination Switch problem. [nikgrey] by hi3cmz Mar 23, 2005 (7:36 pm)
Replying to: nikgrey (Mar 13, 2005 5:53 am) Hi, Here in Taiwan we still see lots of Ford Laser (which is Mazda 323) runing, they are taxi here.. and your combination switch might be cheaper, if you want to provide a picture of your steeling wheel maybe I can ask my dealer for pricing.   BTW, I drive a 1992 Ford Laser GLX 1.6, AUTO tranny, gas millage is impresive, 14 km/litre in heavy asia city traffic, my tranny shifting is kicking from 1 to 2 gear, so I am going to do a rework on hope plate soon.
#61 of 419 Power steering by mazdaowner1 Mar 25, 2005 (10:22 am)
Hi! I have a 1990 323 LX sedan with manual steering. I wonder if its possible to install power steering if I'm able to find (used) parts anywhere. Which parts are needed, which other models have the necessary parts, is it necessary to change the steering gear, etc? I realize that its probably money out the window, I'm just interested in what it takes
#62 of 419 electrical problems- help! by baz666 Mar 27, 2005 (7:42 am)
I own a 1991 323 with the 1.5 litre engine and believe it or not it's got 375,000kms on it. So yes, it's a bit beat up but the little bugger starts and goes everyday. The problem I'm having is that the heater fan started cutting out once in a while then one day the wipers stopped working, both the front and rear wipers. Now I can't get the wipers or the heater fan to work. I've changed fuses, taken the dash off and looked for split wires or similar and can find nothing. I've heard people on this forum mention a "combination switch". Could this be the cause of my problem or is it something else? thx, baz666 toronto, canada Replies to this message: wordartist (Jun 16, 2005 6:51 pm)
#63 of 419 re: electrical problems by lngtonge18 Mar 29, 2005 (2:33 pm)
Mid 80s-early 90s Mazdas are well known for having bad relays and circuit boards. The solder on the circuit board is weak and tends to crack with age and big temp changes or the grease inside the relay leaks out. The most common problem area for Mazdas are the wiper controls, headlight switch, and the ventilation control (if electronically controlled like in the RX7). Your heater fan problem is probably a bad heater fan switch or a relay if one is used. Your wiper problem is probably a bad wiper combination switch (which normally has an internal relay that is the source of the problem or a cracked solder). This combination switch is either in the steering column or on the instrument cluster depending on where the wiper controls are located. Be prepared because new combination switches are rather expensive.   I recently went through wiper problems on my 1990 RX7 convertible. The wipers would only work on low speed. The high, intermittent, mist, and washer wipe functions didn't work. A rebuilt wiper combination switch fixed the problem. The internal relay was what failed and I discovered via the internet that this is a very common problem on many Mazdas. Good luck on the repairs! Replies to this message: mysonscar (Sep 22, 2006 7:14 am)
#64 of 419 1990 Mazda 323 by sgt36 Apr 21, 2005 (3:33 pm)
This is a message from experience. DO NOT BUY AFTER MARKET MODULES for your 323. The modules MUST be from Mazda. Our 323's Module died on us and we could not start the Mazda it was replaced by an after market module. The car ran for about 6 weeks and stopped. This happened with three different after market modules until I asked the mechanic if he used a Mazda module, I was told it was after market. I requested a Mazda module and the car has run without problems ever since. CAUTION do not use after market Modules as the program in the module is different in the Mazda product. It gets expensive to purchase them, when the investment of a few dollars more for a Mazda module is well worth it.
#65 of 419 Re: 323 lifespan [skib] by baz666 Apr 24, 2005 (5:59 am)
Replying to: skib (Jul 08, 2001 7:03 pm) I have a 91 323 hatchback with 5pd transmission and 1.6 liter engine. It's got 375,000 kms on it (225,000 miles) and still running strong. Only problem is a few small areas of surface rust. The key to its longevity has been the constant use of high quality "orange" anti-freeze/coolant. It will keep your water pump running forever. And check your electric cooling fan regularly. If it goes out, the rad isn't enough to cool that hardworking little engine. Also, I use fully synthetic motoroil. Makes a huge difference in the life of the engine. Plus, don't forget change the thermostat regularly, like every year. It's only a couple of dollars and will ensure stable temperature. One thing that will require changing at about 200,000kms (120,000 miles) are the Constant Velocity Shafts. You can get these for about $80. each rebuilt. They are not difficult to install. If the old CV shaft won't come out, it means the circlip at the transmission end of the shaft has expanded and is jammed in there. You can try to use a long thin shaft through the other CV shaft opening and pop the offending circlip out with a deft blow of a hammer. But that's a longshot. More realistically, you'll need to dismantle the transmission end of the stuck shaft, do the same with your rebuilt shaft and attach the new part of the shaft. It's the CV shaft end at the wheel where the bearings start to grind and chatter. Hope this helps. thx, baz
#66 of 419 FUEL TANK DIAGRAM - FUEL TANK HELP by sonixboom Apr 25, 2005 (2:28 pm)
I hope I can get some professional help on this....I have a fuel problem...my tank in my 1988 mazda 323...seems to not be working...the fuel gauge shows quarter tank....but starts to stall once it gets there....i need some opinions on where i can find the "fuel floater" or even where i can get into the tank from the back seat to open up the tank.....i believe the hose that sucks out of the fuel tank maybe corroded or something...any help is appreciated! Replies to this message: dodgelightning (Oct 23, 2005 9:21 am) mjmuir (Nov 25, 2005 6:48 pm)
#67 of 419 323 No spark and no fuel by pskirk Apr 26, 2005 (5:56 am)
Hi,   UK 1992 323 1500 Carburetor, 5 speed manual   I have an internittent problem which usually appears after driving a short distance, say 2 miles or 5-10 minutes then stopping the engine. When I turn ignition on again the "Rear" warning light (which is supposed to indicate failed stop light) is on. Engine will not start and there is no spark and no fuel (dry plugs). Car needs to be left for 20 mins to 1 hour when it will then start OK.   Car is UK spec. Engine is a 1500 Carburetor (so no injectors), no cat either.   Disconnecting battery for 5 minutes or so makes no difference, fault is still there. No fuses are blown. Nothing electrical in engine bay seems overheated.   Does anyone have any ideas where the fault might be, which component may be failing?   Thanks,   Peter Replies to this message: pskirk (Apr 26, 2005 8:08 am)

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