Last post on Mar 11, 2013 at 12:18 PM
You are in the Mazda 323
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Mazda 323, Hatchback
#56 of 448 Re: Hi wordartist- Congrats on your Mazda 323... [revka]
Feb 17, 2005 (1:25 pm)
I am a happy owner of 1992 Mazda 323 SE w/Auto box. I am really happy with it as it handles like no other econo-box out there - just like a mini go-kart.
I have one big problem with it - the overdrive on automatic tranny is triggered by a temperature sensor - during cold Canadian winters it takes time for the car to warm up fully and sometimes travelling on the highway the overdrive does not kick in for a while (this causes very high rpm and poor mileage).
Is there a way to override this temperature triggering sensor for the overdrive - I would like to make it so from the time I start the car the overdrive will work.
Please help, thank you.
#57 of 448 Re: Mazda 323--Do I need a new clutch? [johnbigboote]
Mar 07, 2005 (7:26 pm)
you know you might not even need to replace the clutch because some times if oil or something gets on the clutch disc or anything then it will cause it to slip also so you should take it apart and see first before you spend money on a new one but also if the clutch disk is wore out you will have to replace it anyways and if has never been replaced before. now would be a good time. oh and 210 000 ks good work.
#59 of 448 Mazda 323 Combination Switch problem.
Mar 13, 2005 (6:53 am)
I have a 1989 323 1.8 Gti - 75000 miles.
My combination Switch needs attention, when I indicate left (with lights on) my full beam is activated - I find that this annoys other road users.
Also (this problem has been present for many years) when trying to turn the lights off I find that I need to indicate right in order to do this.
Obviously the switch is getting old, I have had a quote from a Mazda dealer - £125.00
Before I take the plunge and purchase this new switch I think it is worth asking forum viewers if there is any point in inspecting the switch and looking for any obvious problems which I will be able to repair myself..
The switch seems fairly easy to remove, but I haven't attempted to take the actual switch apart yet..
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks in advance.
#60 of 448 Re: Mazda 323 Combination Switch problem. [nikgrey]
Mar 23, 2005 (8:36 pm)
Hi, Here in Taiwan we still see lots of Ford Laser (which is Mazda 323) runing, they are taxi here.. and your combination switch might be cheaper, if you want to provide a picture of your steeling wheel maybe I can ask my dealer for pricing.
BTW, I drive a 1992 Ford Laser GLX 1.6, AUTO tranny, gas millage is impresive, 14 km/litre in heavy asia city traffic, my tranny shifting is kicking from 1 to 2 gear, so I am going to do a rework on hope plate soon.
Mar 25, 2005 (11:22 am)
Hi! I have a 1990 323 LX sedan with manual steering. I wonder if its possible to install power steering if I'm able to find (used) parts anywhere. Which parts are needed, which other models have the necessary parts, is it necessary to change the steering gear, etc? I realize that its probably money out the window, I'm just interested in what it takes
#62 of 448 electrical problems- help!
Mar 27, 2005 (8:42 am)
I own a 1991 323 with the 1.5 litre engine and believe it or not it's got 375,000kms on it. So yes, it's a bit beat up but the little bugger starts and goes everyday. The problem I'm having is that the heater fan started cutting out once in a while then one day the wipers stopped working, both the front and rear wipers. Now I can't get the wipers or the heater fan to work. I've changed fuses, taken the dash off and looked for split wires or similar and can find nothing. I've heard people on this forum mention a "combination switch". Could this be the cause of my problem or is it something else?
#63 of 448 re: electrical problems
Mar 29, 2005 (3:33 pm)
Mid 80s-early 90s Mazdas are well known for having bad relays and circuit boards. The solder on the circuit board is weak and tends to crack with age and big temp changes or the grease inside the relay leaks out. The most common problem area for Mazdas are the wiper controls, headlight switch, and the ventilation control (if electronically controlled like in the RX7). Your heater fan problem is probably a bad heater fan switch or a relay if one is used. Your wiper problem is probably a bad wiper combination switch (which normally has an internal relay that is the source of the problem or a cracked solder). This combination switch is either in the steering column or on the instrument cluster depending on where the wiper controls are located. Be prepared because new combination switches are rather expensive.
I recently went through wiper problems on my 1990 RX7 convertible. The wipers would only work on low speed. The high, intermittent, mist, and washer wipe functions didn't work. A rebuilt wiper combination switch fixed the problem. The internal relay was what failed and I discovered via the internet that this is a very common problem on many Mazdas. Good luck on the repairs!
#64 of 448 1990 Mazda 323
Apr 21, 2005 (4:33 pm)
This is a message from experience.
DO NOT BUY AFTER MARKET MODULES for your 323.
The modules MUST be from Mazda. Our 323's Module died on us and we could not start the Mazda it was replaced by an after market module. The car ran for about 6 weeks and stopped. This happened with three different after market modules until I asked the mechanic if he used a Mazda module, I was told it was after market. I requested a Mazda module and the car has run without problems ever since. CAUTION do not use after market Modules as the program in the module is different in the Mazda product. It gets expensive to purchase them, when the investment of a few dollars more for a Mazda module is well worth it.
#65 of 448 Re: 323 lifespan [skib]
Apr 24, 2005 (6:59 am)
I have a 91 323 hatchback with 5pd transmission and 1.6 liter engine. It's got 375,000 kms on it (225,000 miles) and still running strong. Only problem is a few small areas of surface rust. The key to its longevity has been the constant use of high quality "orange" anti-freeze/coolant. It will keep your water pump running forever. And check your electric cooling fan regularly. If it goes out, the rad isn't enough to cool that hardworking little engine. Also, I use fully synthetic motoroil. Makes a huge difference in the life of the engine. Plus, don't forget change the thermostat regularly, like every year. It's only a couple of dollars and will ensure stable temperature. One thing that will require changing at about 200,000kms (120,000 miles) are the Constant Velocity Shafts. You can get these for about $80. each rebuilt. They are not difficult to install. If the old CV shaft won't come out, it means the circlip at the transmission end of the shaft has expanded and is jammed in there. You can try to use a long thin shaft through the other CV shaft opening and pop the offending circlip out with a deft blow of a hammer. But that's a longshot. More realistically, you'll need to dismantle the transmission end of the stuck shaft, do the same with your rebuilt shaft and attach the new part of the shaft. It's the CV shaft end at the wheel where the bearings start to grind and chatter. Hope this helps.