Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 9:17 AM
You are in the Mazda 323
What is this discussion about?
Mazda 323, Hatchback
#449 of 455 1993 Mazda 323-
Aug 20, 2013 (12:32 pm)
after replacing the ignitor and ignition coil, car still won't start. We even swapped out the battery and nothing.
It was working fine went to the store, came back 3 hours later wouldn't start. We've checked all the wires to ensure nothing was not connected. Any ideas?
#450 of 455 Re: 1993 Mazda 323- [93_323]
Aug 20, 2013 (2:48 pm)
Okay.....back to basics. Takes four things for that engine to run. Fuel, air, spark and timing. Have you checked for spark first before pulling the coil and ignitor. When was the plugs, wires and cap/rotor replaced last? If I recall correctly there is on the 4 cylinder engine a plastic cover over the electronics in the distributor under the rotor. Is that part in place. Does it have any cracks in it. Short of lack of info from you I have little to suggest, but the basics. What engine, trans and mileage are you dealing with.
Also, try putting into the search engine in this forum.....distributor, no start, no spark if you know for sure there is no spark. To test for spark, take a plug wire off, install on a new plug and lay near something metal that is grounded. Do not hold or touch while cranking, it could be the very last thing you do! Look closely at the plug end for a spark. If it sparks, ignition system is not your problem.
#451 of 455 Re: 1993 Mazda 323- [girlcarbuilder]
Oct 18, 2013 (2:47 pm)
The car has 165k miles it has the 1.6L L4 engine, manual.
I took it to a mechanic (that had a high rating on Yelp) who after 1 1/2 weeks, basically did everything I did and is charging me 130 for diagnosis. He said there are 4 things that could be causing the no spark the ignition coil , pickup coil, ECU, or distributor.
We both swapped out the ignition coil box and pick up coil he did swap out the distributor still nothing. He's now sending me home with my car still not working , 130 bill and suggestion to go to local Pick and pull and get an ECU.
Does this sound accurate to you? BTW we did the spark plug test and it had a spark. Think the ECU is behind the dash, he told me it was under the carpet on passenger side. Thank you for any help to get my lil zippy back on the road.
Oh one more thing, the Mechanic stated, if it were the timing we'd hear this loud sound when turning the key.
#452 of 455 Re: 1993 Mazda 323- [93_323]
Oct 18, 2013 (5:50 pm)
You had a spark at the spark plug? How can this be a no spark issue? If you are getting a consistent spark firing while cranking at that plug, you DO NOT HAVE a spark issue. I would check the fuel pump system next.
Not necessarily. The sound he is referring to is pistons hitting valves. If engine damage has happened, you may not hear it any more. Hopefully the timing is not an issue. If it is, hopefully just jumped a tooth or so. Not enough to start, but not enough to do major engine damage. This is the last thing to look at.
Do this next......Verify consistent spark at plug. If it is there, then check the fuel pump. If it is original, it is a very good candidate for a problem.
#453 of 455 Re: 1993 Mazda 323- [girlcarbuilder]
Oct 18, 2013 (8:29 pm)
ok thanks so much. I'll check the spark plugs again first thing in AM. What are your thoughts about the ECU being the cause?
#454 of 455 Re: 1993 Mazda 323- [93_323]
Oct 19, 2013 (5:55 am)
If you have that spark, you can forget the ECU from that aspect. When I began learning electronics on old tube technology, repair diagrams used "block diagrams. That helped to see where signal began and was amplified to each stage. So if you have any electronics experience like in the old stereo equipment, it will help a lot here. So in the 89 Mazda here and in your 93 similar design the "tuner" would be the pickup coil in the distributor. If it is not timed correctly, then "you are not on the station and you get a lot of static!" The signal leaves the distributor and goes to the ECU which is the "amplifier" and basically that is exactly what it is! Now some cars and maybe this one as well may have an intermediate final drive chip, "power amp". Our 89 here does not. The coil, "speaker coil" does its thing. The spark plugs are the "speaker diaphragm." So instead of sound, you are looking for spark. If you have spark you can forget the ECU.....but being an old car nut, it never hurts to have another one. Which reminds me, I may need to move the one on the self into service before it goes bad on the self. Another thing I got told while learning electronics was to quit chasing my tail or chasing ghosts. AKA know as wasting time once I had confirmed something worked. Confirm your spark then move onto fuel question.
Next time you go to crank the car, remove whatever needed to get to fuel pump. If a sedan, most likely rear seat. Have some one turn the key on while your ear is very close to fuel tank. Listen for the pump to pressurize. If you can not hear it....hello you may very well have your problem! Hopefully the "mechanic" set your timing back. Not likely since he did not get it running. Oh, well, one step at a time. Some of us old timers scribe line up marks on distributor cars to avoid that fun.
#455 of 455 sparkplug
Oct 21, 2013 (9:17 am)
I'm in the process of having the car towed back from the mechanic's shop. I asked him if he tested the plugs and his reply was
"The spark isn't getting created to get to the plugs. Besides the wiring and the ECU, we've replaced everything that controls/creates spark" Your Thoughts...
He continues with telling me where to find an ECU. I told him to recheck the plugs. Though I've checked him out on a local ratings website, I'm begining to think he wrote his own reviews.