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Mazda 323

448 messages,  Last post on Mar 11, 2013 at 12:18 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback

Messages Page 45 of 46

#434 of 448 Re: Car stopped running-'88 323-cannot find problem-HELP [scott7904] by kitkat250

Nov 20, 2010 (2:09 am)

Replying to: scott7904 (Nov 19, 2010 3:40 pm)
I think the problem I had with my 323 was the distributor cap. I think I had it replace. I hope this helps. I no longer have my 323 but it is still out there running. Great Cars.

#436 of 448 Mazda323 Spoiler by aimee323

Dec 02, 2007 (3:00 pm)

Hey, Ive recently bought a mazda 323 n really want 2 spruce it up a bit!! Does anyone know if its possible to get a spoiler 4 a mazda 323????

#437 of 448 310K mileage report by girlcarbuilder

Dec 26, 2011 (12:01 pm)

December 26th, 2011 310,000 mileage report. "89 Mazda 323 hatchback.
 
Still in service. Now currently is being alternated in and out of service every 6 months with the newer cars. Service period is during the winter months. Running 10-15K a year presently.
 
Overall, it has been a good unit but with higher than normal for Japanese vehicle requirements for service. Problem areas recently have been a poor connection that developed in the primary starter system. Negative battery terminal cable to transmission. Added another cable from negative on battery right to a starter motor bolt. It is also difficult to get a decent starter from the supply house. Had to make my own terminals for cable. No big deal there. Fires right up now.
 
Earlier posts show that this car is on second engine and tranny. Engine changed at 140K and tranny at 250K. Swapped tranny for a five speed. That is still the same status. Still on synthetic oil, and next to no oil leaks from engine. Tranny tends to have to have output shafts seals replaced. I still have one on my to do list. 2nd A/c is an aftermarket unit from factoryaire.com. It has to be gassed each beginning of when the heat comes in. A little slime in the older tires....rolling right along. Every else is regular maintenance.
 
Current materials being tested on this vehicle. Slime in one tire. Silicone spray on cv boots.
 
No, I would not buy another Mazda at this point.
 
Other than that, just trying to suck the last good mile out of it.

#438 of 448 No Probs! by thevine

Dec 26, 2011 (1:24 pm)

Still going strong on my end, passed the car onto a friend and they have another 50k plus. Purchased for $550. in 2000 and found this board & girlcarbuilder should be passed on as well. Initially ran fine but, thought I would shop for parts, on the & cheap over time. Some front end parts, timing belt, water pump, wheel bearings, ect knew the starter was a bit weak but, did not like choices locally.Starter only recently died & changed out after a near 100,000 and new radiator-Only probs for new owner. Says tranny seems weak and will not do 75-80 mph freeways...60mph is about comfort top speed where no strain is felt. Auto tranny.
Mainly safety was an issue for myself.

#439 of 448 New Mazda? by thevine

Dec 26, 2011 (1:29 pm)

I have considered a sporty little newer Mazda 3 hatch. Too bad the ford focus has such a lame interior & string wheel set up, or would consider that route as a much cheaper find. No footwork yet as a GEO Prizm aka toyota corolla is top notch current

#440 of 448 Re: New Mazda? [thevine] by girlcarbuilder

Dec 27, 2011 (5:50 am)

Replying to: thevine (Dec 26, 2011 1:29 pm)
I spent 3 years watching the Toyota Yaris hatchback. Engine has a timing chain.....no timing belt changes! WE currently have two in service at 30K. I would suggest reading my remarks on it. It is still high on my list as a purchase.

#441 of 448 Mazda 323 - 1997. Immobilizer System by viking88

Dec 04, 2012 (3:03 pm)

My problem is that the car is not starting any more.
 
The security light is not flashing; it is off. It should be flashing to indicate that the immobilizer system is activated.
 
When the key is turned and the ignition is ON, the security light is flashing - strong light. Turning the key further on to START does not start the engine.
 
According to the alternative procedure for deactivating the immobilizer, the key shall in short be turned on for ignition five time. Herein after one should wait for a number of flashes on the security light. The problem is that the security light is not flashing at all.
  
Have any experienced a similar problem? Any tips & tricks are welcome.
 
Thank you.
Kind regards,
 
Viking88

#442 of 448 backup lights switch connection in eng. comp. by papoh3

Dec 18, 2012 (8:28 pm)

Hi,--I'm new to the site, so please..bare with me. I have a 1989 323 hatchback 1.6 (base). My problem is that the vehicle never had backup lights since i bought it, but now I went and bought a switch because the old switch someone had cut the wires right at the switch.. so My problem is that I can not see in the engine compartment where the switch gets connected to. they are no connectors to match the connector on the switch. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you and happy holidays to all--with a very fruitfull new years.
Papoh3---

#443 of 448 Re: backup lights switch connection in eng. comp. [papoh3] by girlcarbuilder

Dec 19, 2012 (9:46 am)

Replying to: papoh3 (Dec 18, 2012 8:28 pm)
Okay, I do not know what transmission you have! I am not sure on the automatic, because we have a manual trans here. Most auto trans have the reverse light and the neutral shift switch right on the shifter assembly. That could be on top or front side of the unit. The manual is accessible from front below of car on drivers side.
 
Now, according to the factory wiring manual, it appears to have a wiring harness going to the front lower part of the transmission. I walked out and looked at the spare unit here. There is a switch there that you can reach from under neath. Also there is another switch near the shifter, I suspect it may be the netraul safety switch? Odd. Never had to deal with it in 314K miles.
 
Anyway, I checked the circuit layout. It has fuse, switch and light bulbs...period and simple enough! So if you can light the bulbs with a jumper and have 12 volts at the cut wire from underneath, good. Two conductors involved. You may have to come up with some kind of tab connectors, male/female as it applies. I recommend you soldier it and cover with heat shrink tubing. Before applying 12 volts to the back lights, you may want to be sure with an ohm meter that nothing is shorted out in the back.

Messages Page 45 of 46

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