Last post on Oct 21, 2013 at 9:17 AM
You are in the Mazda 323
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Mazda 323, Hatchback
#421 of 455 Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [grey323]
Dec 09, 2009 (11:39 am)
Wrong!!!! It is most definitely an interference engine. I even know this from personal experience when the crank broke off in front of the engine. The pistons and the valves did dance together and bend the valves before the engine died. This damage usually occurs after the crank rotates more than a quarter turn with the camshaft being stationary. Now, I know this to be for sure on interference for 89 and up engines. I do not know for sure on earlier engines.
One rule of thumb I exercise because I have gotten incorrect info in the past, if it has a timing belt, treat it as an interference engine! You can never go wrong with this. Not to mention, it gives you practice for when you deal with one!
Mar 21, 2010 (7:31 am)
My car is idling bumpy and then when i accelerate it is bumpy. it only happens when the car warms up. I accidently sprayed the engine with water one day when I was filling my water up and it started steaming, could that have been the issue?
#423 of 455 Re: bumpy ride [leeyahh]
Mar 21, 2010 (1:13 pm)
Take off and dry out the distributor cap.
#424 of 455 Clutch Work
Apr 21, 2010 (5:11 pm)
1978 Mazda; 323; DX; 1.6L.
Wanted to get an opinion on the difficulty of replacing the clutch on this vehicle. Have never done it on a front wheel drive vehicle before but a few times on rear wheel driven cars.
Any suggestions on a quality clutch kit?
#425 of 455 Re: Should I or Shouldn't I? [dbulter1]
May 06, 2010 (10:58 am)
Not sure about the tranny, but my 1994 323 WILL NOT start. Apparently they're known for it. They may work perfect for a long time, then one day you get in and it urns over fine, but will not start. I've changed the fuel pump, coil & coil wire, distributor cap, rotor and cannot get spark. Fuses are all in tact.The cars not worth spending the money on to take to a garage and figure it out, so if you hear of anything with the same issue and a fix, you would be my hero...lol
#426 of 455 Re: No Spark on my 89 Mazda 323 [buckeyeboy74]
May 06, 2010 (11:03 am)
Do you mean replace the whole unit - i mean the part that actually goes into the engine? Sounds like i have the same issue - no spark and I've replaced everything except the distributor
#427 of 455 Re: No Spark on my 89 Mazda 323 [sanman07]
May 06, 2010 (2:52 pm)
With the distributor cap off and turning over the engine, have someone watch and see if the rotor turns. If not, you need a new distributor shaft.
#428 of 455 Re: Should I or Shouldn't I? [sanman07]
Jun 15, 2010 (1:54 am)
Try replacing the camshaft sensor in the distributor. As a test you can take the distributor off the engine, turn on the ignition key, spin the distributor and you should hear a click noise as it rotates, if not you probably need to replace it. You will see a cable coming out of the distributor with 3 wires, one ground, one 12V, and one 5V, use a voltmeter/multimeter to see if the 5 volt line gets pulled down to 0 as you rotate, you will probably need an analog voltmeter to see the pulse, but a digital may work.
Mark the distributor location before you pull it off otherwise you'll need to adjust the timing once you put it back on.
You may be able to just replace the sensor but I'm not sure. Replacing the entire distributor may be the only possibility.
#429 of 455 Re: No Spark on my 89 Mazda 323 [kujhac]
Jun 16, 2010 (10:09 am)
If that shaft does not turn, it is much more likely you have a timing belt that has lost a few teeth and the cam shaft will not turn either!
Guys, heads up. This is a very old problem on these cars. Do a search on distributor at the top of this section. I have written a lot on it. Everything from removal, cleaning to controlling excessive oil flow is there. Oh, excessive oil flow is the number one reason for no spark!
Good luck. You master this problem, you have mastered one of the biggest pains in the 323 line up!