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Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323
419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 31, 2009 8:11 am) Very good on the alternative fuel source test. Spraying starting fluid and a no start is a dead ringer for a timing problem! You have clicking at fuel injectors and gas smell at the plugs...I strongly suspect we are dealing with timing just based on that. Now answer this question for me. Did the car run before you changed the timing belt? If so, I strongly suspect that timing is off at the valves and we still have to question ignition timing as well since its timing is set off of the camshaft. As you are beginning to see. Proper tools are needed to get this right the first time and in a reasonable time. Proper diagnosis leads you to a proper conclusion as to where to look for trouble. Otherwise you wind up chasing your tail looking for ghosts that are not there. Happy Halloween. One way we all learn, the hard way. Answer my question so we can get to the next step.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Nov 01, 2009 7:25 am) It ran but I haven't been driving it, so it wasn't run a lot. I only ran the engine to do other things, like backflush the cooling system.
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 01, 2009 8:00 am)
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 01, 2009 10:37 am) When I originally took the timing belt off duing the water pump replacement, I made my own marks (based on someone else's advice), was dead careful not to move the pullies, and reinstalled the timing belt based on the marks I'd made. I didn't have a manual at the time so I just did what I was told. Anyway, I guess that method doesn't guarantee you'll have proper timing again, eh. Since the new distributor is, for now, in a significantly different position than the old one was (assuming 1/4-3/8" is significant), is that enough by itself to deduce that the camshaft and timing pullies aren't aligned to the timing marks? If I take the timing cover off and everything *is* in alignment, *then* what do I do?
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 20, 2009 12:39 pm) As you have learned, reminds me of me at times working on a no budget that not the right tools/info wastes a lot of time. So much for time versus money! Been there, done that. Okay, if the timing belt is off, it would be a tooth or so and that is it. That can be a real problem long term. You are either right on it or very close. The timing technique you used on the distributor is called by the old timers "road timing." Not a final solution, but a technique used often to rough in the timing to get a vehicle being put back together started. You still need a timing light to final set the timing. So make this simple. Use the book for reference to get the correct marks. Either buy one or check one out of the library. First remove the upper timing cover. Set the top mark in place by doing the following. Make sure the ignition is off. Only turn the crankshaft by hand in the same direction the engine turns to set that top mark. The bottom mark should line up with 0 or TDC whichever is on the bottom cover mark. One the bottom gear on this engine, TDC mark is the same as the marks on the timing cover. That is usually the case. On the top mark, I have used a very small screw driver shaft to line up the tooth or valley that the mark on the gear is on lines up with the mark on the engine. Eyes can easily fool you and you could be off a tooth. Oh, the belt life is 60K miles. Don't push it, because if it breaks on this engine, the pistons will hit the valves. Cheap replacement belts are not worth it. Refer to my other posts about belt changes if you need to change it. Any way, after you verify the gear timing marks, then use the timing light to final set the ignition timing. You may need further instruction on how to use that light.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Nov 22, 2009 7:04 am) I read that this engine is the non-interference type (link: Mazda B series.) Are you sure about the piston-valve crash scenario? I thought that wasn't a concern with these. |
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