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Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323
419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
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My question is: can the front hubs be removed without also removing the knuckle and pressing out the rotor,bearings, ect.. I want to fix a broken lug.
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Is there a way to change the layout to a more conventional format? I mean, the postings are are not in order and I get lost trying to follow a thread. Can my settings be changed somehow?
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Replying to: grey323 (Oct 28, 2009 2:14 am) |
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Replying to: grey323 (Oct 28, 2009 2:10 am) If you have not done this before and never used a press before, find someone who can do it for you. Use that press the wrong way and you are in serious trouble. |
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm) Just to verify the basics again after replacing the distributor: I am getting spark at the plug, and using the ol' screwdriver-as-stethoscope trick, I found the injectors are indeed ticking away *. As far as timing goes, after retracing my steps, I should point out the following: * = If the plugs smell of gas, can't it be assumed that (1) the injectors are working, and (2) the timing is off (meaning gas but no ignition?) Anyway, the plugs smell of gas. I found that out when I sprayed starting fluid in the cylinders to see if it would run a bit for me, which it didn't. As always, thanks to girlcarbuilder and 91323vic for your patience and help. Stopping and starting this project has contributed to my oversights - some of them critical I know.
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 31, 2009 8:11 am) Very good on the alternative fuel source test. Spraying starting fluid and a no start is a dead ringer for a timing problem! You have clicking at fuel injectors and gas smell at the plugs...I strongly suspect we are dealing with timing just based on that. Now answer this question for me. Did the car run before you changed the timing belt? If so, I strongly suspect that timing is off at the valves and we still have to question ignition timing as well since its timing is set off of the camshaft. As you are beginning to see. Proper tools are needed to get this right the first time and in a reasonable time. Proper diagnosis leads you to a proper conclusion as to where to look for trouble. Otherwise you wind up chasing your tail looking for ghosts that are not there. Happy Halloween. One way we all learn, the hard way. Answer my question so we can get to the next step.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Nov 01, 2009 7:25 am) It ran but I haven't been driving it, so it wasn't run a lot. I only ran the engine to do other things, like backflush the cooling system.
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 01, 2009 8:00 am)
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 01, 2009 10:37 am) When I originally took the timing belt off duing the water pump replacement, I made my own marks (based on someone else's advice), was dead careful not to move the pullies, and reinstalled the timing belt based on the marks I'd made. I didn't have a manual at the time so I just did what I was told. Anyway, I guess that method doesn't guarantee you'll have proper timing again, eh. Since the new distributor is, for now, in a significantly different position than the old one was (assuming 1/4-3/8" is significant), is that enough by itself to deduce that the camshaft and timing pullies aren't aligned to the timing marks? If I take the timing cover off and everything *is* in alignment, *then* what do I do?
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Replying to: listerine (Nov 20, 2009 12:39 pm) As you have learned, reminds me of me at times working on a no budget that not the right tools/info wastes a lot of time. So much for time versus money! Been there, done that. Okay, if the timing belt is off, it would be a tooth or so and that is it. That can be a real problem long term. You are either right on it or very close. The timing technique you used on the distributor is called by the old timers "road timing." Not a final solution, but a technique used often to rough in the timing to get a vehicle being put back together started. You still need a timing light to final set the timing. So make this simple. Use the book for reference to get the correct marks. Either buy one or check one out of the library. First remove the upper timing cover. Set the top mark in place by doing the following. Make sure the ignition is off. Only turn the crankshaft by hand in the same direction the engine turns to set that top mark. The bottom mark should line up with 0 or TDC whichever is on the bottom cover mark. One the bottom gear on this engine, TDC mark is the same as the marks on the timing cover. That is usually the case. On the top mark, I have used a very small screw driver shaft to line up the tooth or valley that the mark on the gear is on lines up with the mark on the engine. Eyes can easily fool you and you could be off a tooth. Oh, the belt life is 60K miles. Don't push it, because if it breaks on this engine, the pistons will hit the valves. Cheap replacement belts are not worth it. Refer to my other posts about belt changes if you need to change it. Any way, after you verify the gear timing marks, then use the timing light to final set the ignition timing. You may need further instruction on how to use that light.
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