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Mazda 323

419 messages,  Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


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#407 of 419
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by girlcarbuilder
Oct 25, 2009 (4:47 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm)

Vic is a bit difficult for me to follow. But I will say this, It takes four things to make an engine run. Take one of them away and it will not start. Airflow, good fuel, good spark and timing. Timing issues come in the form of spark and valve and in fuel injection systems....fuel as well.
 
A weak spark in the Mazda 323 engine is going to be a problem in 323's. Oil issues in the distributor can create a weak spark to no spark and at times an erractic spark.
 
If you did not verify ignition, spark timing, before taking it down. that is the next thing to do. Do not rely totally on Autozone to give you a go, no go on the distributor. I have seen too many times a part is either good or bad when they declared the opposite.
 
In terms of cranking while turning the distributor, I prefer to hold the timing light at the marks on the crankshaft pulley to see which way is the correct way to turn.
 
Verify your spark being present and your injectors then proceed to set your timing. Get a book to see where the marks are and how to use a timing light.
#408 of 419
hi by 91323vic
Oct 25, 2009 (8:43 pm)
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i want to say it is static timing, no cranking, only ign is on, the timing marks are on the side of the motor if you take the passengers side wheel and cover off,sorry i forgot your driver side are on the other side, over there, i`m in aust,there is two marks on the harmonic balancer,line that up with o,the dist should have the cap off and you should see the rotor button pointing in pot 1 position, not at the most top position but the position that compresses,that`s why i suggested a screwdriver in the pot ,to tell you your stroke, grab the coil wire put it 3-4mms away from the rotor button and twist the body of the dist, if you have set to power stroke on mark, side of engine this should show spark,before youeven start all this, rotation can be seen by cranking and looking at the rotor buttons direction,thats how i found it,
#409 of 419
'88 323-The rotor is behind the hub. by grey323
Oct 28, 2009 (2:10 am)
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My question is: can the front hubs be removed without also removing the knuckle and pressing out the rotor,bearings, ect..
 
I want to fix a broken lug.
#410 of 419
This forum by grey323
Oct 28, 2009 (2:14 am)
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Is there a way to change the layout to a more conventional format? I mean, the postings are are not in order and I get lost trying to follow a thread.
 
Can my settings be changed somehow?
#411 of 419
Re: This forum [grey323] by pf_flyer HOST
Oct 28, 2009 (3:12 am)
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Replying to: grey323 (Oct 28, 2009 2:14 am)

Click the Forums Preferences link and you'll see a section titled Forums Settings where you can set the order that posts are displayed in
#412 of 419
Re: '88 323-The rotor is behind the hub. [grey323] by girlcarbuilder
Oct 28, 2009 (8:08 am)
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Replying to: grey323 (Oct 28, 2009 2:10 am)

The only way to service those studs is to disassemble everything. Might as well service the bearing assembly with new bearings and seals as well. I suggest you use a valvoline synthetic grease for the wheel bearings. Lifespan of those bearings is between 120K to 150K. At 150K they are usually starting to burn from lack of grease. Pay attention when you dissasseble, there are two spacers that go between the bearings.
 
If you have not done this before and never used a press before, find someone who can do it for you. Use that press the wrong way and you are in serious trouble.
#413 of 419
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by listerine
Oct 31, 2009 (8:11 am)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm)

Looking for help interpreting the circled tests here: troubleshooting chart. E.g. which terminal is positive? With one wire of the multimeter at the positive terminal, where does the other wire attach? (Some of the tests are outlined on this coil tests page but others aren't.)
 
Just to verify the basics again after replacing the distributor: I am getting spark at the plug, and using the ol' screwdriver-as-stethoscope trick, I found the injectors are indeed ticking away *. As far as timing goes, after retracing my steps, I should point out the following:
 
  • Mistakes I probably made with re-installing the timing belt, after I replaced the water pump (earlier this summer): timing belt reinstallation.
  • Mistakes I probably made with installing the new distributor: distributor installation.

  • * = If the plugs smell of gas, can't it be assumed that (1) the injectors are working, and (2) the timing is off (meaning gas but no ignition?) Anyway, the plugs smell of gas. I found that out when I sprayed starting fluid in the cylinders to see if it would run a bit for me, which it didn't.
     
    As always, thanks to girlcarbuilder and 91323vic for your patience and help. Stopping and starting this project has contributed to my oversights - some of them critical I know.
    #414 of 419
    Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by girlcarbuilder
    Nov 01, 2009 (7:25 am)
    Reply

    Replying to: listerine (Oct 31, 2009 8:11 am)

    Okay.....pay attention. You have spark and you have fuel. Time to quite trying to find a problem in the distributor or ignition system. Problem is not in there. That means distributor is working, injectors are working and so is engine computer in that system. Fuel system may have a question mark on it at this point.
     
    Very good on the alternative fuel source test. Spraying starting fluid and a no start is a dead ringer for a timing problem!
     
    You have clicking at fuel injectors and gas smell at the plugs...I strongly suspect we are dealing with timing just based on that. Now answer this question for me. Did the car run before you changed the timing belt? If so, I strongly suspect that timing is off at the valves and we still have to question ignition timing as well since its timing is set off of the camshaft. As you are beginning to see. Proper tools are needed to get this right the first time and in a reasonable time. Proper diagnosis leads you to a proper conclusion as to where to look for trouble. Otherwise you wind up chasing your tail looking for ghosts that are not there. Happy Halloween.
     
    One way we all learn, the hard way. Answer my question so we can get to the next step.
    #415 of 419
    Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [girlcarbuilder] by listerine
    Nov 01, 2009 (8:00 am)
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    Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Nov 01, 2009 7:25 am)

    Yes, the car ran before I removed the timing belt (which I didn't change - I reinstalled it because it looked excellent.) The car also ran after the timing belt was reinstalled... Which is why I didn't suspect a timing issue at first, after it decided it wasn't going to start anymore.
     
    It ran but I haven't been driving it, so it wasn't run a lot. I only ran the engine to do other things, like backflush the cooling system.
    #416 of 419
    Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by listerine
    Nov 01, 2009 (10:37 am)
    Reply

    Replying to: listerine (Nov 01, 2009 8:00 am)

    Just to clarify part of what I said above: It ran for a couple of days after I reinstalled the timing belt, then suddenly it wouldn't start anymore.

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