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Mazda 323

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback

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#5 of 419 price on this 323 by leomort Jan 26, 2001 (9:28 am)
hello, I seen this used 1990 Mazada 323 automatic not sure if it has A/C with 110,000 miles on it. asking price 4 grand! I think this is step. I think it's only worth $1200-1500. Perhaps start with an offer of $1,000. What's a fair price for a car of this age and mileage?                   Leo
#6 of 419 For 4 grand by 5spd Jan 26, 2001 (2:57 pm)
You can get a 1995 ! These cars cost nothing on the used car market, and they represent a very good value if you are looking for cheap but good transportation.   You are right, don't pay more than $1500 for a 1990. And get youself a 5 speed one if you could drive one, it is much more nimble than the automatic version.
#7 of 419 323 by leomort Jan 29, 2001 (7:09 am)
Hi 5spd,   The car is going to be used to teach my wife to drive. So we need something reliable. She'll probably only put 4-5,000 miles a year on the car. She wants an automatic. Thanks for the help. I'll see if I can get him down in price.                    Leo
#8 of 419 my mazda by climbdude Jan 29, 2001 (2:41 pm)
hey dudes, i got this mazda 323 and its been great except for one thing when its cold and wet it doesn't start, it just cranks and cranks, but doesn't start, its a 1992 323 with 104K and a five speed, can anyone help me out? my spanish teacher, who's a car enthusiast, and has owned around twenty mazda's, says its probably the distributor cap getting moisture in it, can anyone corroborate this? i'm also looking into mazda RX-7's, anyone know about em?
#9 of 419 climbdude by lngtonge18 Jan 30, 2001 (6:06 am)
Sounds like that is exactly the problem. If the distributor cap cracks, it can allow either moisture to get in or sparks to come out. Both cause problems. If moisture gets in, it will cause the car to be difficult to start until the cap dries. If spark gets out, it will cause the engine to sputter. The cap only costs maybe $20 at your local part store and is very easy to replace. You should also replace the rotor at the same time as the cap. It is the small triangular shaped object that rotates around inside the cap. Anyway, replace the cap and your car should run as good as new again. As far as the RX-7, what years were you looking at? Each generation has their own unique problems, but overall they are fun cars to drive. I own an 84 RX-7, so I can try to answer some general questions about them. Replies to this message: bluebomber (Apr 19, 2007 6:03 pm)
#10 of 419 RX7 by climbdude Jan 30, 2001 (1:45 pm)
i'm looking at an 86 RX 7, its a second gen, got a new tranny and motor, looks great, runs good, been kept up really well, its got a high performance exhaust system, it makes it really loud,
#11 of 419 RX7 by lngtonge18 Jan 30, 2001 (6:15 pm)
If it has a completely rebuilt engine, than it may be a pretty good car. Avoid the turbo, as they put more stress on the rotary engine and are less reliable. My 84 has been very reliable over the past year, despite the fact I bought it for $200. All it has needed was a new starter, left front rotor, caliper and a set of pads, and a clutch slave cylinder. It always starts up first time and runs really good. However, you MUST be religious in changing the oil every 3000 miles max. Rotary engines actually burn oil by design so you must also get in the habit of checking the oil level at least once every 2 weeks if not more. I recommend using Catrol 20W-50 oil as that is what is recommended by numerous places. Rotary engines run hotter than a piston engine, so the thicker weight oil is better for it. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL! It can cause major problems with the rotor seals and lead to an engine failure. I can't think of anything else to tell you. Was there any specific questions you had about it? Hope my advice helps.
#12 of 419 thanks by climbdude Feb 01, 2001 (7:30 pm)
thanks for the info
#13 of 419 The RX7 and 323 by 5spd Feb 02, 2001 (3:26 pm)
are two totally different cars. Can't even imagine these two cars owned by the same person. RX7 is a purist sports car for someone who has the skill to drive it right and who has the mechanical knowledge to fix it when it breaks down, which is not at all infrequent .   The 323, especially the strip version, on the other hand, is the car for cheap guys like myself, who is constantly looking for good reliable transportation for the least money.
#14 of 419 5spd by lngtonge18 Feb 02, 2001 (8:11 pm)
If you are a cheap guy, than you would have loved my 84 RX7. It was amazingly dependable and has never left me stranded in the year I have owned it. It always starts up first try and never stalls. Total amount of money I have put into it in a year, including the $200 purchase price, is a paltry $500. And we are not talking about a beater rusted out piece of junk that only a mother could love. This car is still gorgeous after all these years and constantly gets admiring looks. The paint is in good condition, the body has no dents, scratches, or rust, and the interior is in excellent condition considering its age. Granted, the AC doesn't work, and it has its quirks (carbureator hesitates some, clutch is not the easiest to engage smoothly, the exhaust has a few leaks which causes some stinky smells to get into the car, and it burns oil by design so you must check it often, though it does not visibly smoke). Anyway, sorry for blabbing about the RX7 in the 323 forum, but I thought you might be interested in how cheap to operate some RX7s really are. It has been the cheapest car to operate that I have ever owned!!

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