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Mazda 323

420 messages,  Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 3:37 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


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#400 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by girlcarbuilder
Oct 23, 2009 (10:47 am)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 20, 2009 9:19 am)

Okay....lets recheck a few things. First, take your timing light and check each plug wire for a spark. Also check the coil wire. Take your stethoscope and check each fuel injector for a clicking noise. Do these tests while someone is cranking the engine. No spark and no clicking means we have something going wrong from distributor pickup, the black module with wires attached, to and possibly including the ECU. If you get both a spark and clicking noise then those systems are working and we are dealing with timing the ignition system correctly. If you get spark and no clicking or clicking and no spark, let me know asap.
 
If you do not have these tools, they are a must to fix this. Harbor Freight again.
 
Bear with me, doing the Vulcan mind meld with a 20 year old 323 is a bit rough long distance.....but it will not be the first I fixed that way. Hopefully it will not be the first not fixed.
 
How far away are you from Baton Rouge, LA?
#401 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [girlcarbuilder] by listerine
Oct 23, 2009 (12:24 pm)
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Oct 23, 2009 10:47 am)

Okay, I will gather the tools together and recheck those things. In the meantime, I'll just reiterate from my first post that I was getting a weak spark. I didn't use a timing light, just the standard tests of the plugs, wires, etc, against the block. (By the way, the plugs, plug wires, dist cap, and rotor are all brand new.) Never checked the injectors - will give those a listen.
 
I live in Minnesota.
#402 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by 91323vic
Oct 23, 2009 (5:16 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 23, 2009 12:24 pm)

or you can feed each pot,some fuel like a full choke, thru the spark holes put them back connect spark plug: wires in and crank, admittedly not the done thing, but this is another method to check off air meter and elect continuity,instant result, or not,i was scratching my head first up with the very same problems, just a simple wires, cap, and air meter filter replacement, just note how much you regulate in each pot,10ml-15mm is adequate, to vaporize. 91323
#403 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [91323vic] by listerine
Oct 25, 2009 (1:16 pm)
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Replying to: 91323vic (Oct 23, 2009 5:16 pm)

Well, I replaced the distributor yesterday with one from the junkyard (since it had already been ordered), but still no start. If I understand 91323vic's instructions from a previous post, I should try rotating the distributor while someone else turns it over? Or just with the ignition in the ON position? Or should I just verify the timing right now before doing anything else?
 
RE 91323vic's post above: Is he saying I should try spraying a little starter fluid in the cylinders and see what happens when it turns over? Maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can fill in the gaps because I'm having a little trouble understanding him.
 
girlcarlbuilder: Going to try borrowing a timing light from Autozone (and bring my old distributor in for a bench test while I'm there.) Once I have that, and a stethoscope from the surplus store, and a friend to turn it over, I'll try your tests next. 91323vic's tests caught my attention simply because I don't have the tools you mention.
 
Thanks for everyone's patience and advice. Obviously, my knowledge of automechanics is limited. I understand basically what timing is and why it's fundamental, but I've never had a timing issue on a vehicle before. It occurred to me in the beginning that the timing could be off here, but so many other posts pointed to the distributor. Frankly, I just didn't know what the proper order of operations was after seeing the weak spark at the plug.
#404 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by 91323vic
Oct 25, 2009 (3:12 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm)

okay line up timing marks on motor, under drivers side wheel, so take off wheel,and cover,the screw driver tell firing stroke,because there is exhaust stroke and fire stroke, take cap off grab coil wire with ign on and twist dist this should if in the right place snap elect current for first pot it you have it right,it could be a petrol problem because you can now see spark drop 10 ml of petrol in each pot this will start it but not run for long it will tell you that your timing is correct check fuses check fuel pump
#405 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by 91323vic
Oct 25, 2009 (3:14 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm)

weak spark is fine at least you have it
#406 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [91323vic] by 91323vic
Oct 25, 2009 (3:30 pm)
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Replying to: 91323vic (Oct 25, 2009 3:12 pm)

do not touch coil wire with rotor button or it will weld together keep a pencil thickness away secondly the power stroke is the lowest stroke in the pot the exhaust stroke is the highest that`s why you need the screwdriver to show you this, if your setting to exhaust stroke your petrol its exiting to exhaust i found that when it started a plume for 3mins of the fuel((and don`t crank with ign)) turn with hand while screwdrivers in pot.91323vici am soory i didn`t get with your program sooner i figured you were in good hands, follow these methods i got my up and running
#407 of 420
Re: Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! [listerine] by girlcarbuilder
Oct 25, 2009 (4:47 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 25, 2009 1:16 pm)

Vic is a bit difficult for me to follow. But I will say this, It takes four things to make an engine run. Take one of them away and it will not start. Airflow, good fuel, good spark and timing. Timing issues come in the form of spark and valve and in fuel injection systems....fuel as well.
 
A weak spark in the Mazda 323 engine is going to be a problem in 323's. Oil issues in the distributor can create a weak spark to no spark and at times an erractic spark.
 
If you did not verify ignition, spark timing, before taking it down. that is the next thing to do. Do not rely totally on Autozone to give you a go, no go on the distributor. I have seen too many times a part is either good or bad when they declared the opposite.
 
In terms of cranking while turning the distributor, I prefer to hold the timing light at the marks on the crankshaft pulley to see which way is the correct way to turn.
 
Verify your spark being present and your injectors then proceed to set your timing. Get a book to see where the marks are and how to use a timing light.
#408 of 420
hi by 91323vic
Oct 25, 2009 (8:43 pm)
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i want to say it is static timing, no cranking, only ign is on, the timing marks are on the side of the motor if you take the passengers side wheel and cover off,sorry i forgot your driver side are on the other side, over there, i`m in aust,there is two marks on the harmonic balancer,line that up with o,the dist should have the cap off and you should see the rotor button pointing in pot 1 position, not at the most top position but the position that compresses,that`s why i suggested a screwdriver in the pot ,to tell you your stroke, grab the coil wire put it 3-4mms away from the rotor button and twist the body of the dist, if you have set to power stroke on mark, side of engine this should show spark,before youeven start all this, rotation can be seen by cranking and looking at the rotor buttons direction,thats how i found it,
#409 of 420
'88 323-The rotor is behind the hub. by grey323
Oct 28, 2009 (2:10 am)
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My question is: can the front hubs be removed without also removing the knuckle and pressing out the rotor,bearings, ect..
 
I want to fix a broken lug.

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