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419 messages,  Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM

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#386 of 419 1989 323/Tracer won't start by listerine Sep 04, 2009 (12:54 pm)
For 1989, the Mercury Tracer had the same engine as the Mazda 323. Here's the deal:   Turns over but won't start. New plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Getting spark at the distributor main wire, end of the plug wire, and at the plug. The spark is possibly a little weak (?) but it's there. The plugs have gas on them. Not igniting at the right time? Spark not strong enough? The test for the positive side of the coil had passed initially, but now it's failing... According to the Tracer manual's troubleshooting chart, this points to an ignition issue. But if that's true, why was it passing before? Blah... If the key was in the ignition, and the door was open, the ignition buzzer used to stay on constantly. Now it stays on for 5 seconds and stops. For whatever that's worth. The timing belt is intact. Can't speak for the timing. The main fuse is good. I did a basic visual check for shorts. Didn't see anything. Coils and distributors for this car aren't cheap, so I'd rather not replace anything else without a firm diagnosis.   I've reached the limit of my knowledge. Any help from the experts is greatly appreciated. Replies to this message: girlcarbuilder (Sep 06, 2009 3:31 pm) listerine (Oct 06, 2009 1:58 am) girlcarbuilder (Oct 07, 2009 8:31 am)
#387 of 419 Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [listerine] by girlcarbuilder Sep 06, 2009 (3:31 pm)
Replying to: listerine (Sep 04, 2009 12:54 pm) I have written a lot on this common problem for the 323. Do a word search on distributor for that info. Bottom line. If the plugs have much more than 30K miles, replace because they are worthless when it comes to firing. If the module in the distributor is oil soaked, and/or the cap itself, then you will need to clean the oil out of the distributor. Remove it and disassemble and clean well with soap and water. Use dawn dishwashing liquid. There is also a mod I listed for the oil soaking problem on the distributor.   You will need to verify the ignition timing and valve train timing as well. I also wrote a section on how to scribe the distributor timing location BEFORE you pull it so it should restart easily. This engine can be a real headache in this department. Be ready to spend some time thinking.   Rock Auto shows the coil to be about $60. Cheap for a car now a days. Replies to this message: listerine (Oct 06, 2009 1:58 am) girlcarbuilder (Oct 07, 2009 8:31 am)
#388 of 419 '89 323 Needs Clutch by glowplugz Oct 04, 2009 (2:57 pm)
135k miles, old faithful needs a new clutch. It's starting to slip in 4th gear (it's a 4 spd). I will need to have a shop do the work for me. I was wondering what a typical price for this work would be. Also, should I have them replace the main seal while they are at it? (the car has no leaks.)   I don't know if it's considered "bad customer etiquette", but I was also thinking about supplying the clutch kit to the shop. What would be a recommended brand?   -Thanks Replies to this message: sschmid (Oct 04, 2009 5:42 pm)
#389 of 419 Re: '89 323 Needs Clutch [glowplugz] by sschmid Oct 04, 2009 (5:42 pm)
Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 04, 2009 2:57 pm) Most shops will not let you supply your own parts. You may have a good relationship with your mechanic who will be willing to do so though. My son had his clutch done on the same car and it ran about $900, parts included.
#390 of 419 Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [girlcarbuilder] by listerine Oct 06, 2009 (1:58 am)
Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Sep 06, 2009 3:31 pm) girlcarbuilder,   I believe I found your posts about working on the distributor. I've compiled them here (as a checklist for myself): Distributor tips   Let me know if I have the right info. Thanks. Replies to this message: girlcarbuilder (Oct 07, 2009 8:31 am)
#391 of 419 Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [listerine] by girlcarbuilder Oct 07, 2009 (8:31 am)
Replying to: listerine (Oct 06, 2009 1:58 am) Yes, that is pretty much part of it. If you click on someones name in a post, it will bring up their page as well as posts they have made over time. Another tip would be to use a small screwdriver on the distributor cap towers and scribe the numbers for each cylinder each one is for. On Mazda, that covers 86-89. Info begins to vary though for earlier and later years. Tracer, I am not knowledgeable of, but I know a particular engine when I see it under someones elses hood! I saw a Mazda manual transmission in a church members 2001 Escort this past Sunday for example.   One thing I have learned all of these years, a bit of common sense goes a long way and short cuts can be applied on other models, if thought out carefully.   UPDATE. The distributor plug system in the oil holes so far as done well in our 89 for several years now. I have not cleaned oil out since then. So that idea has panned out very nicely so far.   That signal from the chip in the distributor also sets the timing for the fuel injectors. You can check to see if they are firing by putting a stethoscope probe on each one and listen for a clicking noise. That noise will be loud and firm in the stethoscope. Harbor Freight has a nice one for about $5.00. No clicking brings the chip in the distributor and/or the ECU into suspect.   Congrats on your persistence. That is how I learned this stuff.....hard headed I get told at times!
#392 of 419 Firing order by listerine Oct 09, 2009 (12:17 am)
I need to know how the plug wires match up to the distributor on a '89 323. Please describe it by matching up where the post is on the distributor - Top, Right, Bottom, Left - with the order of plugs going left to right on the engine - 1, 2, 3, 4. (So e.g. Top = 1, etc.)   Thanks.
#393 of 419 Re: 89 323 No Start [thevine] by listerine Oct 09, 2009 (12:50 am)
Replying to: thevine (Aug 20, 2008 8:28 am) I thought the ignitor was inside of, or part of, the distributor. If you'd replaced the distributor, wouldn't you have been replacing the ignitor as well?
#394 of 419 Distributor disassembly by listerine Oct 14, 2009 (8:32 am)
Does anyone know how to get this pin out of the distributor (see diagram):   The pin holds that cylindrical jobby on to the shaft, and apparently It's all part of the pick-up set. I thought the pin was the threaded kind that took a hex wrench, but that doesn't appear to be the case.   Hey girlcarbuilder, how far should I be going with taking the distributor apart in order to clean it (per your posts about oil getting in there)?
#395 of 419 Inside the distributor. Lots of fun! by girlcarbuilder Oct 14, 2009 (10:56 am)
Bear with me. Under the weather. To answer someone else's question, replacing the distributor will not solve the oil flooding problem caused by higher blowby from a high mileage engine. Not to mention, they do a bit less than I do! This one is for free!   Firing order is 1-3-4-2 with cylinder #1 on the timing belt end of the engine. Number one should be marked on the cap. Number one should also be the one highest up. Rotation is counter clock wise. Whenever I tune up, I scratch the tower numbers on all towers along with date and mileage on the cap.   Read everything below first and work the procedure in your mind second, then handle it!   Now for disassembly. Funny, as many times I had this thing apart until I figured out the real problem was blowby, I can not recall. So much for memory, but put the spare one I set up years ago, my hands recall just fine. I assume you have removed the rotor and the top screw in the shaft at this point. Check the shaft for sideplay. None should be felt. Too much, reject the unit for another one to rebuild, but hold for spare parts. Now to remove the magnet, "star" shaped thing, I recall using two medium flat blade screw drivers between the magnet aka reluctor I believe and the pickup coil below which has a plastic case! So be careful and read first! Have a clean bench area. Turn each screwdriver like you would a screw and slowly press the reluctor off. Pay attention where the roll pin takes off to and hides! This will give you access to further disassembly. Also pay attention to which spacers come from under the pickup and under the opposing part. See view. Yup, this is the same distributor We have!   To press that reluctor back on, I started it and the pin on the shaft then turned the distributor upside down on the bench and carefully pressed it back on. Pay attention to which is top and bottom on the reluctor. Wrong way, and it will not work. I recall some kind of mark on the top side.   Take apart to the point where the main shaft is stripped down, but not removed from the housing. After the counterweights is the point I stopped at. I used a regular wheel bearing grease to relube those weights when I reassembled.   Clean plastic parts with Dawn dishwashing water, old toothbrush and hot water. Do not clean the base unit because it still has bearings in it. Use carb cleaner spray on the base and other metal parts as needed. Dry and air out everything as needed. Look carefully at pickup unit for cracks in plastic case. If it is cracked, does not mean it does not still work. It does mean it will fail sometime. I have yet to have to replace one yet. I have a few from junk yard with complete distributors as spares. Last time I checked price on pickup, it was over $300, so treat it very nicely!   As for the new oil plugs I installed in the bottom, I use cutoff brads from a basic curtain rod hanger for a valance. Call wife if needed for this! I tend to have a one up on many mechanics in this department! The nails, brads, aka pins, plugs are shortened to avoid interference with the mechanics in the base of the unit and then carefully pressed in place. I would start with one pin first to see how that does. Reassemble, reinstall. If you have to, you can always press the second one if it proves to allow too much oil flow still. I used carb cleaner spray to clean out both holes before pressing in a pin. But if you block off too much oil flow, then you will destroy the bearings in the unit and will have to replace the distributor. I also used carb cleaner to blow oil out of the base of the unit that was not disassembled any further.   The litmus test after you reinstall is whether or not the cap stays dry, free from oil after you put the car back into service. Mine has a little still, but not enough to cause problems. Some oil is normal lubrication underneath. If it works, I have learned not to mess with it in some cases. This is one of them. Come to think of it, car has 80K more miles on it since doing this.   Other than this, I have had to replace the vaccuum advance and the wire harness on these units. The capactor is a radio interfence part, but even after it died, I never had a problem with interference on the radio. So I never replaced it. Replies to this message: listerine (Oct 14, 2009 4:12 pm) listerine (Oct 20, 2009 9:19 am) 91323vic (Oct 20, 2009 5:11 pm) and 1 more... girlcarbuilder (Oct 23, 2009 10:47 am) and 14 more...

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