- #383 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [kitkat250]
by shrub69
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Aug 21, 2009 (1:22 pm)
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Replying to: kitkat250 (Aug 20, 2009 6:15 pm)
ty very much i think ur rite in the same area on my car is a puddle of what im sure is oil im thinking a gasket or a seal also hopeing it doesnt cost 2 much to fix i need this car im still paying it off
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- #384 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [shrub69]
by kujhac
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Aug 23, 2009 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: shrub69 (Aug 20, 2009 4:35 pm)
What bothers me more than the oil leak is the overheating. How hot is the engine getting? Was this city driving or on the highway?
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- #385 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [kujhac]
by 91323vic
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Aug 23, 2009 (2:57 pm)
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Replying to: kujhac (Aug 23, 2009 7:26 am)
1 look a simple test if water is flowing thru your system,is to start car,run for a while to running temp. turn off and check radiator with your hand on the front of it if water is flowing correctly the whole radiator from top to bot should be warm or hot if the bot feels in any way cooler, than you are dealing with blocked cores , restricted waterflow 2 next get a assistant to rev motor to 3 grand an now look at the radiator hoses for vacumm closing caused from worn hoses the pre ignition from your earlier post indicates advancement or even over fueling hope that help you in your repairs
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- #386 of 419
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1989 323/Tracer won't start
by listerine
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Sep 04, 2009 (12:54 pm)
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For 1989, the Mercury Tracer had the same engine as the Mazda 323. Here's the deal:
Turns over but won't start.New plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.Getting spark at the distributor main wire, end of the plug wire, and at the plug. The spark is possibly a little weak (?) but it's there.The plugs have gas on them. Not igniting at the right time? Spark not strong enough?The test for the positive side of the coil had passed initially, but now it's failing... According to the Tracer manual's troubleshooting chart, this points to an ignition issue. But if that's true, why was it passing before? Blah...If the key was in the ignition, and the door was open, the ignition buzzer used to stay on constantly. Now it stays on for 5 seconds and stops. For whatever that's worth.The timing belt is intact. Can't speak for the timing.The main fuse is good.I did a basic visual check for shorts. Didn't see anything.
Coils and distributors for this car aren't cheap, so I'd rather not replace anything else without a firm diagnosis.
I've reached the limit of my knowledge. Any help from the experts is greatly appreciated.
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- #387 of 419
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Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [listerine]
by girlcarbuilder
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Sep 06, 2009 (3:31 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Sep 04, 2009 12:54 pm)
I have written a lot on this common problem for the 323. Do a word search on distributor for that info. Bottom line. If the plugs have much more than 30K miles, replace because they are worthless when it comes to firing. If the module in the distributor is oil soaked, and/or the cap itself, then you will need to clean the oil out of the distributor. Remove it and disassemble and clean well with soap and water. Use dawn dishwashing liquid. There is also a mod I listed for the oil soaking problem on the distributor.
You will need to verify the ignition timing and valve train timing as well. I also wrote a section on how to scribe the distributor timing location BEFORE you pull it so it should restart easily. This engine can be a real headache in this department. Be ready to spend some time thinking.
Rock Auto shows the coil to be about $60. Cheap for a car now a days.
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- #388 of 419
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'89 323 Needs Clutch
by glowplugz
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Oct 04, 2009 (2:57 pm)
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 135k miles, old faithful needs a new clutch. It's starting to slip in 4th gear (it's a 4 spd). I will need to have a shop do the work for me. I was wondering what a typical price for this work would be. Also, should I have them replace the main seal while they are at it? (the car has no leaks.)
I don't know if it's considered "bad customer etiquette", but I was also thinking about supplying the clutch kit to the shop. What would be a recommended brand?
-Thanks
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- #389 of 419
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Re: '89 323 Needs Clutch [glowplugz]
by sschmid
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Oct 04, 2009 (5:42 pm)
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 04, 2009 2:57 pm)
Most shops will not let you supply your own parts. You may have a good relationship with your mechanic who will be willing to do so though. My son had his clutch done on the same car and it ran about $900, parts included.
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- #390 of 419
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Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [girlcarbuilder]
by listerine
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Oct 06, 2009 (1:58 am)
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Sep 06, 2009 3:31 pm)
girlcarbuilder,
I believe I found your posts about working on the distributor. I've compiled them here (as a checklist for myself): Distributor tips
Let me know if I have the right info.
Thanks.
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- #391 of 419
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Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [listerine]
by girlcarbuilder
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Oct 07, 2009 (8:31 am)
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Replying to: listerine (Oct 06, 2009 1:58 am)
Yes, that is pretty much part of it. If you click on someones name in a post, it will bring up their page as well as posts they have made over time. Another tip would be to use a small screwdriver on the distributor cap towers and scribe the numbers for each cylinder each one is for. On Mazda, that covers 86-89. Info begins to vary though for earlier and later years. Tracer, I am not knowledgeable of, but I know a particular engine when I see it under someones elses hood! I saw a Mazda manual transmission in a church members 2001 Escort this past Sunday for example.
One thing I have learned all of these years, a bit of common sense goes a long way and short cuts can be applied on other models, if thought out carefully.
UPDATE. The distributor plug system in the oil holes so far as done well in our 89 for several years now. I have not cleaned oil out since then. So that idea has panned out very nicely so far.
That signal from the chip in the distributor also sets the timing for the fuel injectors. You can check to see if they are firing by putting a stethoscope probe on each one and listen for a clicking noise. That noise will be loud and firm in the stethoscope. Harbor Freight has a nice one for about $5.00. No clicking brings the chip in the distributor and/or the ECU into suspect.
Congrats on your persistence. That is how I learned this stuff.....hard headed I get told at times!
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- #392 of 419
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Firing order
by listerine
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Oct 09, 2009 (12:17 am)
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I need to know how the plug wires match up to the distributor on a '89 323. Please describe it by matching up where the post is on the distributor - Top, Right, Bottom, Left - with the order of plugs going left to right on the engine - 1, 2, 3, 4. (So e.g. Top = 1, etc.)
Thanks.
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