- #380 of 419
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Re: 1987 mazda 323 [sschmid]
by girlcarbuilder
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Aug 18, 2009 (4:35 pm)
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Replying to: sschmid (Aug 18, 2009 3:08 pm)
This response is for everyone looking for parts. Most Mazda's hit the yard between 10-20 years. heavy around 15 years. Over the years, I have learned to stock up body parts and electronics, because after 20 they all become hen's teeth.
Now.....if you still have dealer contacts with a dealer who will dig stuff up that may still be out there, call him. You would be surprised what some of them can find. If not, try this dealer. diamond mazda. 1-800-527-0189. they have gotten a few things for me, but not cheap. I pay the price!
Also, on a rear bumper I needed for an 86 Toyota took me a lot of time searching on the internet. Finally found one after several days in a junk yard across the country.
Check every new and used parts supplier you can find. Look in parts catalogs. If you speak Spanish, try some places in Mexico. They run a few years behind us on parts supplies. It can be done, but is time consuming. Find out what other vehicles the part may have been used on. Contact places like LKQ and Pull a Part via phone and internet. Look for e-mail resources that may contact you when a car comes in. Pull a Part has that. The last 89 323 I saw was about 6 months ago at a LKQ. It has become tough finding parts, but there are still a few. Check e-bay motors for parts as well. You never know.
Happy hunting......
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- #381 of 419
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mazda 323 1986
by shrub69
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Aug 20, 2009 (4:35 pm)
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so my car was smoking recently. i stopped and lifted the hood it appeared to be smoking out from my spark plugs the rest of the engine seems to get really hot quickly i cant ever seem to drive more than a couple hours sometimes less before its hot n needs to cool also it doesnt always turn off all that well. any ideas on how i can make it better would help very much i know a lil about cars and try to do as much of the work myself if i can
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- #382 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [shrub69]
by kitkat250
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Aug 20, 2009 (6:15 pm)
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Replying to: shrub69 (Aug 20, 2009 4:35 pm)
Check your gaskets you probably have an oil leak my car would always run on in the summer but fine in the winter. there is a gasket on the right side down under the distributor that seems to leak. Mine would smoke really bad sometimes. There is a Chilton guide ( I think that is what they are called) for them. That gasket is defective. I don't own the Mazda anymore.
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- #383 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [kitkat250]
by shrub69
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Aug 21, 2009 (1:22 pm)
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Replying to: kitkat250 (Aug 20, 2009 6:15 pm)
ty very much i think ur rite in the same area on my car is a puddle of what im sure is oil im thinking a gasket or a seal also hopeing it doesnt cost 2 much to fix i need this car im still paying it off
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- #384 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [shrub69]
by kujhac
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Aug 23, 2009 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: shrub69 (Aug 20, 2009 4:35 pm)
What bothers me more than the oil leak is the overheating. How hot is the engine getting? Was this city driving or on the highway?
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- #385 of 419
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Re: mazda 323 1986 [kujhac]
by 91323vic
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Aug 23, 2009 (2:57 pm)
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Replying to: kujhac (Aug 23, 2009 7:26 am)
1 look a simple test if water is flowing thru your system,is to start car,run for a while to running temp. turn off and check radiator with your hand on the front of it if water is flowing correctly the whole radiator from top to bot should be warm or hot if the bot feels in any way cooler, than you are dealing with blocked cores , restricted waterflow 2 next get a assistant to rev motor to 3 grand an now look at the radiator hoses for vacumm closing caused from worn hoses the pre ignition from your earlier post indicates advancement or even over fueling hope that help you in your repairs
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- #386 of 419
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1989 323/Tracer won't start
by listerine
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Sep 04, 2009 (12:54 pm)
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For 1989, the Mercury Tracer had the same engine as the Mazda 323. Here's the deal:
Turns over but won't start.New plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor.Getting spark at the distributor main wire, end of the plug wire, and at the plug. The spark is possibly a little weak (?) but it's there.The plugs have gas on them. Not igniting at the right time? Spark not strong enough?The test for the positive side of the coil had passed initially, but now it's failing... According to the Tracer manual's troubleshooting chart, this points to an ignition issue. But if that's true, why was it passing before? Blah...If the key was in the ignition, and the door was open, the ignition buzzer used to stay on constantly. Now it stays on for 5 seconds and stops. For whatever that's worth.The timing belt is intact. Can't speak for the timing.The main fuse is good.I did a basic visual check for shorts. Didn't see anything.
Coils and distributors for this car aren't cheap, so I'd rather not replace anything else without a firm diagnosis.
I've reached the limit of my knowledge. Any help from the experts is greatly appreciated.
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- #387 of 419
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Re: 1989 323/Tracer won't start [listerine]
by girlcarbuilder
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Sep 06, 2009 (3:31 pm)
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Replying to: listerine (Sep 04, 2009 12:54 pm)
I have written a lot on this common problem for the 323. Do a word search on distributor for that info. Bottom line. If the plugs have much more than 30K miles, replace because they are worthless when it comes to firing. If the module in the distributor is oil soaked, and/or the cap itself, then you will need to clean the oil out of the distributor. Remove it and disassemble and clean well with soap and water. Use dawn dishwashing liquid. There is also a mod I listed for the oil soaking problem on the distributor.
You will need to verify the ignition timing and valve train timing as well. I also wrote a section on how to scribe the distributor timing location BEFORE you pull it so it should restart easily. This engine can be a real headache in this department. Be ready to spend some time thinking.
Rock Auto shows the coil to be about $60. Cheap for a car now a days.
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- #388 of 419
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'89 323 Needs Clutch
by glowplugz
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Oct 04, 2009 (2:57 pm)
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135k miles, old faithful needs a new clutch. It's starting to slip in 4th gear (it's a 4 spd). I will need to have a shop do the work for me. I was wondering what a typical price for this work would be. Also, should I have them replace the main seal while they are at it? (the car has no leaks.)
I don't know if it's considered "bad customer etiquette", but I was also thinking about supplying the clutch kit to the shop. What would be a recommended brand?
-Thanks
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- #389 of 419
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Re: '89 323 Needs Clutch [glowplugz]
by sschmid
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Oct 04, 2009 (5:42 pm)
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 04, 2009 2:57 pm)
Most shops will not let you supply your own parts. You may have a good relationship with your mechanic who will be willing to do so though. My son had his clutch done on the same car and it ran about $900, parts included.
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