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Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323
419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm) |
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Both door locks on my trusty hatchback are failing. The driver's side one works but not well, and the passenger side lock is frozen. Apparently what happens is that the little internal sliding "cover" inside the lock comes loose & falls down into the mechanism, jamming the lock. I wonder if it's possible to disassemble the lock mechanism and remove the cover piece. Has anyone done this? I don't think I want junkyard locks - even if they happened to have the keys, I don't think used locks would last very long. I'm willing to buy new ones but can't find a "keyed alike" pair anywhere (I don't want a different key for each door).
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Replying to: glowplugz (Jun 19, 2009 6:55 pm) We are going to have to install a new third set soon into ours at 300K. They are getting sloppy. Also an 89 323. Generally these lock assemblies are not rebuildable.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 21, 2009 4:55 am) 
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Could sure use some help from someone more knowledgeable than I: Car in question is a 1989 Mercury Tracer, but these have a Mazda 323 engine. It overheated, and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew. (Milkshake oil, water drip from exhaust, etc.) I decided to try liquid glass on the head gasket - specifically, "Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair" - but I'm still having problems. I should mention the steps I've taken so far (some of which were just for maintenance): - Replaced the thermostat. - Back-flushed the cooling system. - Flushed the heater core separately. - Replaced the radiator cap. - (And as I said, added liquid glass.) What's different now: The good: - It starts and runs better. - There's no more sign of coolant in the oil, nor oil in the coolant. The bad: - Smoke is still sputtering out of the front of the engine in some spots, which I take to be unsealed cracks at the head gasket. - The heater isn't producing hot air. - The coolant overflow reservoir still bubbles (presumably from exhaust gas.) I'm wondering now if the water pump is bad, and that maybe the liquid glass can't fully circulate to where it can seal the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen up when the engine is running, which I would have thought meant that there's pressure and that the coolant is being pumped through the system. Except that the top radiator hose gets warm/hot while the bottom hose never really does… I'd rather not replace anything else without knowing that I've nailed down the cause though. Any suggestions? Thanks much in advance.
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Replying to: listerine (Jun 27, 2009 2:15 am) |
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Replying to: listerine (Jun 27, 2009 2:15 am) So education time first. As an engine ages, the round cylinder wears into an egg shape. One side from the power stroke, the other from compression stroke. When you over heat the block, that shape also distorts. I suspect over time, you will find oil usage/leakage to be up especially over time. Now add the uncertain possibility of something else cracking down the road, which does happen in such cases. You have an engine with an uncertain potential of total failure down the road. When it comes to rebuilding such an engine, the head is usually scrapped because there is only the dye method of finding cracks which is so limited in confirming results. The block can be magnafluxed to look for such small cracks, but at 20 years of age, it would be scrapped also, because of cost of labor. That brings down to a total engine replacement. So, in order to really determine what you have would be a total hit and miss mission with the prospects of total failure down the road. Now to add to the problems besides parts availability. The engine design itself is such that, ignore one problem you get a snowball effect of damage. For example, ignore the timing belt and it snapped, there went the entire engine with the pistons hitting the valves bending them. It took very little to force this engine very quickly to the scrap pile. Now for the positive. If you have a 5 speed standard or 4 speed, this car could still be worth rebuilding. An auto, I would not waste my time. Ours is a 89 323, coming up on 300K miles. The first engine crank broke at 138K which we decided to scrap it for a new crate engine. Still a top performer in the stable after that decision right down to the new a/c put in a few years back. It comes with the cost of sticking to a good pm schedule and a careful eye on it that became knowlegable of it over 10 years. Best to you, whatever your decision. You may wish to review past posts on this engine before doing anything. Better to be informed before spending your money. One trouble spot in its history has been breaking crankshafts, the other has been the distributor. Use the search engine in this forum to gain more info on it. Search distributor then crankshaft. On the other hand, should you decide to replace this car, take a few walks in the junk yard and look at cars that are not wrecked. Note the age and mileage it comes in at. Now a days, if it does not make at least 200K on the odometer, it is a piece of junk before it gets in the yard. One such brand that makes 20 years and 200K plus very consistly is Toyota. I have an 86 Tercel in service still. Most of them have been junked.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 28, 2009 6:08 am) Although that does raise a question: how can I tell if there's a bigger problem beyond the head gasket? I'm no car expert, and I've never had a serious engine problem before, but I would think it would run horribly, if at all, and it isn't doing that. Anyway, I'm thinking I need to verify water pump function to know that the Bar's is circulating to the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen when the car's running, but does that really mean anything? If it does, then why doesn't the bottom radiator hose get warm? What kinds of tests can I try here? |
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I have a 1991 323, front-wheel drive, on which I'd like to patch an exhaust hole. I am a bit perplexed by where to place the hydraulic floor jack and jack stands, however. The manual I have (Chilton's) says: "When using stands, use the side members at the front or trailing axle front mounting crossmember at the rear for placement points," but there is no illustration, and I'm a bit challenged on the terms in question (as well as the best placement point for the floor jack to set up for the stands). Can anyone out there provide any insight? Thanks, Stewart
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Replying to: ahab_2001 (Jul 04, 2009 6:18 am) Have an 89 323 almost 300K on it. Should be similiar. Few points to jack up on it. To patch an exhaust problem, I would drive it up on ramps usually here. Otherwise, in the front, there is usually a cross member somewhere underneath holding up the engine. On ours, that member goes from under bumper assembly to the firewall. I do not use it though because it gives an uneven lift. I usually center on the front sway bar under the front bumper. When you do try yours, watch to make sure you are not crushing anything. I center between the two front rubber frame mounts. I use the front tow hooks to put jack stands under it. In the rear, where the axle assemblies fasten to the center of the car is usually a good point to jack up. Use plenty of common sense here and don't get into a rush until you get more used to the car doing repairs. That applies to any new vehicle you encounter. that will always serve you well when working on one. Never assume anything, cause in this trade, everything changes fast! Buying a new car here and we added factory service manuals to the purchase. plan to keep it a while, might as well have correct info! hopefully another 300K miles/ 20 plus years. I have also found that not all service manuals have all the info you need. Check the library for more books with info you need in them. It never ceases to amaze me how incomplete Chilton's and Haynes can be at times.
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