You are here: Forums Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323

Mazda 323

416 messages,  Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 10:37 AM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback

Messages Page 37 of 42 1 ... 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 ... 42 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

#360 of 416 Re: light problems [mitchicoi] by kujhac Jun 08, 2009 (3:16 am)
Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:36 pm) Obviously, there's no current getting to the bulb. Time to bring out the multi-meter.
#361 of 416 Re: HELP [mitchicoi] by 91323vic Jun 08, 2009 (3:16 pm)
Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm) o kay my suggestion is to dismantle the intended guage at the dash, as a static dianosis. run the vehicle until flutuation in the guage appears obviously it wont be items mentioned that you pointed out. so it would be three of the following 1connectors on your harness 2 possibly wiring harness 3 the guages contact itself on the dash card . my remedy acquire a guage from wreckers do a meter test on it if you wish the best way is to run a test try a battery hotwire with a five amp breaker on the guage secondly run a light meter on active guage harness if the light flutuates in the same mannnerit`s along your harness wriggle them . if your also refering to the motor smells hot with the guage sensation this could very well be your cut in switch which operates in four cyclinders under a temperature rating the temperate makes it to its kickin point an operates the thermal fans to adjust the motor working temperature i have a very quick solution permently hotwire a ten amp breaker wire from your thermal fans to ignition main this operates fan as soon as key is turned
#362 of 416 Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking by glowplugz Jun 19, 2009 (6:55 pm)
Both door locks on my trusty hatchback are failing. The driver's side one works but not well, and the passenger side lock is frozen. Apparently what happens is that the little internal sliding "cover" inside the lock comes loose & falls down into the mechanism, jamming the lock.   I wonder if it's possible to disassemble the lock mechanism and remove the cover piece. Has anyone done this? I don't think I want junkyard locks - even if they happened to have the keys, I don't think used locks would last very long. I'm willing to buy new ones but can't find a "keyed alike" pair anywhere (I don't want a different key for each door). Replies to this message: girlcarbuilder (Jun 21, 2009 4:55 am) glowplugz (Jun 21, 2009 6:45 am)
#363 of 416 Re: Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking [glowplugz] by girlcarbuilder Jun 21, 2009 (4:55 am)
Replying to: glowplugz (Jun 19, 2009 6:55 pm) There are new door locks possibly still available at O'Reilly auto parts. While you are replacing them, spray the entire latch, linkage assembly with lubricant spray to keep it all working well. They come in pairs. I recall them being under the HELP line. If you get dumb looks from the counter help, you may have to ask to see the catalog if they have one. A lot of parts houses say stuff is not available, but it is as a special order. Another source may be a phone call to Rockauto.com.   We are going to have to install a new third set soon into ours at 300K. They are getting sloppy. Also an 89 323.   Generally these lock assemblies are not rebuildable. Replies to this message: glowplugz (Jun 21, 2009 6:45 am)
#364 of 416 Re: Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking [girlcarbuilder] by glowplugz Jun 21, 2009 (6:45 am)
Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 21, 2009 4:55 am) Thanks! ...I'll check into those sources
#365 of 416 1989 323/Tracer with blown head gasket by listerine Jun 27, 2009 (2:15 am)
Could sure use some help from someone more knowledgeable than I: Car in question is a 1989 Mercury Tracer, but these have a Mazda 323 engine. It overheated, and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew. (Milkshake oil, water drip from exhaust, etc.) I decided to try liquid glass on the head gasket - specifically, "Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair" - but I'm still having problems.   I should mention the steps I've taken so far (some of which were just for maintenance): - Replaced the thermostat. - Back-flushed the cooling system. - Flushed the heater core separately. - Replaced the radiator cap. - (And as I said, added liquid glass.)   What's different now: The good: - It starts and runs better. - There's no more sign of coolant in the oil, nor oil in the coolant. The bad: - Smoke is still sputtering out of the front of the engine in some spots, which I take to be unsealed cracks at the head gasket. - The heater isn't producing hot air. - The coolant overflow reservoir still bubbles (presumably from exhaust gas.)   I'm wondering now if the water pump is bad, and that maybe the liquid glass can't fully circulate to where it can seal the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen up when the engine is running, which I would have thought meant that there's pressure and that the coolant is being pumped through the system. Except that the top radiator hose gets warm/hot while the bottom hose never really does… I'd rather not replace anything else without knowing that I've nailed down the cause though. Any suggestions?   Thanks much in advance. Replies to this message: kujhac (Jun 27, 2009 6:38 am) girlcarbuilder (Jun 28, 2009 6:08 am) listerine (Jun 28, 2009 11:00 am)
#366 of 416 Re: 1989 323/Tracer with blown head gasket [listerine] by kujhac Jun 27, 2009 (6:38 am)
Replying to: listerine (Jun 27, 2009 2:15 am) You're simply going to have to get the head gasket replaced and the head checked for warping. Hopefully the head isn't cracked but most likely it is.
#367 of 416 Re: 1989 323/Tracer with blown head gasket [listerine] by girlcarbuilder Jun 28, 2009 (6:08 am)
Replying to: listerine (Jun 27, 2009 2:15 am) Hmmm, you have listed some still not good symptoms. Yes, bubbles in coolant is an indication of exhaust leak into coolant. This is just the beginning of headaches.   So education time first.   As an engine ages, the round cylinder wears into an egg shape. One side from the power stroke, the other from compression stroke. When you over heat the block, that shape also distorts. I suspect over time, you will find oil usage/leakage to be up especially over time. Now add the uncertain possibility of something else cracking down the road, which does happen in such cases. You have an engine with an uncertain potential of total failure down the road.   When it comes to rebuilding such an engine, the head is usually scrapped because there is only the dye method of finding cracks which is so limited in confirming results. The block can be magnafluxed to look for such small cracks, but at 20 years of age, it would be scrapped also, because of cost of labor. That brings down to a total engine replacement.   So, in order to really determine what you have would be a total hit and miss mission with the prospects of total failure down the road.   Now to add to the problems besides parts availability. The engine design itself is such that, ignore one problem you get a snowball effect of damage. For example, ignore the timing belt and it snapped, there went the entire engine with the pistons hitting the valves bending them. It took very little to force this engine very quickly to the scrap pile.   Now for the positive. If you have a 5 speed standard or 4 speed, this car could still be worth rebuilding. An auto, I would not waste my time. Ours is a 89 323, coming up on 300K miles. The first engine crank broke at 138K which we decided to scrap it for a new crate engine. Still a top performer in the stable after that decision right down to the new a/c put in a few years back. It comes with the cost of sticking to a good pm schedule and a careful eye on it that became knowlegable of it over 10 years.   Best to you, whatever your decision. You may wish to review past posts on this engine before doing anything. Better to be informed before spending your money. One trouble spot in its history has been breaking crankshafts, the other has been the distributor. Use the search engine in this forum to gain more info on it. Search distributor then crankshaft.   On the other hand, should you decide to replace this car, take a few walks in the junk yard and look at cars that are not wrecked. Note the age and mileage it comes in at. Now a days, if it does not make at least 200K on the odometer, it is a piece of junk before it gets in the yard. One such brand that makes 20 years and 200K plus very consistly is Toyota. I have an 86 Tercel in service still. Most of them have been junked. Replies to this message: listerine (Jun 28, 2009 11:00 am)
#368 of 416 Re: 1989 323/Tracer with blown head gasket [girlcarbuilder] by listerine Jun 28, 2009 (11:00 am)
Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 28, 2009 6:08 am) If there's more wrong with this engine than just the head gasket, then it's going to the scrap yard. That's why I'm trying the Bar's first - there's enough reports of success with products like it to give it a shot, and I can see where I stand after that.   Although that does raise a question: how can I tell if there's a bigger problem beyond the head gasket? I'm no car expert, and I've never had a serious engine problem before, but I would think it would run horribly, if at all, and it isn't doing that.   Anyway, I'm thinking I need to verify water pump function to know that the Bar's is circulating to the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen when the car's running, but does that really mean anything? If it does, then why doesn't the bottom radiator hose get warm? What kinds of tests can I try here?
#369 of 416 Jack stand points on 323 (1991) by ahab_2001 Jul 04, 2009 (6:18 am)
I have a 1991 323, front-wheel drive, on which I'd like to patch an exhaust hole. I am a bit perplexed by where to place the hydraulic floor jack and jack stands, however. The manual I have (Chilton's) says: "When using stands, use the side members at the front or trailing axle front mounting crossmember at the rear for placement points," but there is no illustration, and I'm a bit challenged on the terms in question (as well as the best placement point for the floor jack to set up for the stands).   Can anyone out there provide any insight?   Thanks, Stewart Replies to this message: girlcarbuilder (Jul 04, 2009 4:55 pm) ahab_2001 (Jul 07, 2009 5:23 am)

Messages Page 37 of 42 1 ... 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 ... 42 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

You are here: Forums Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323