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Mazda 323

419 messages,  Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


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#356 of 419
Re: light problems [mitchicoi] by kujhac
May 31, 2009 (7:00 am)
Reply

Replying to: mitchicoi (May 31, 2009 3:07 am)

What does it do when you turn the knob to change the lightness/darkness intensity of the dash lights?
#357 of 419
Re: light problems [kujhac] by mitchicoi
Jun 07, 2009 (7:36 pm)
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Replying to: kujhac (May 31, 2009 7:00 am)

nothing happens!adjusted it to the brightest level.still the same
#358 of 419
HELP by mitchicoi
Jun 07, 2009 (7:43 pm)
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My temperature is somewhat unstable....it sometimes go up half and a bit more then after a while goes down again....ive already changed my aux fan,made it bigger,my temp sensor,thermostat gone already,nothings wrong with radiator either....ive also noticed that this happens when the weather is hot.is this normal or should i look into more serious problems???does it have any connection with my compressor?please help me figure out this puzzle
#359 of 419
Re: HELP [mitchicoi] by pf_flyer HOST
Jun 08, 2009 (2:43 am)
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm)

Are you saying the temp gauge is fluctuating up and down? Does this describe the behavior?... the gauge will look like it's reading normal operating temp and then suddenly drop down, then come back up to looking normal, and it never goes up above the normal operating temp?
 
I had something similar happen on a vehicle about 6 months ago. Nothing was wrong with thermostats, radiator, etc. So it HAD to be a problem with the gauge itself or the connections leading to the gauge. Turned out there was a cracked electrical connector on the back of the gauge that would make or break the connection depending how the car was moving. When the car was cold, it would seem to operate just fine with the needle slowly moving up as the car warmed up. Once the engine reached operating temp, the bouncing needle would start to show up. The needle would never indicate a higher than normal operating temp, so I was pretty sure it wasn't a cooling system problem. My guess is that the wires leading to the gauge would become a bit more flexible once the engine compartment heated up and the movement of the car (especially when accelerating or decelerating) would basically wiggle the wires and make or break the connection, causing the needle to suddenly drop and then just as suddenly come back up to show a correct reading.
#360 of 419
Re: light problems [mitchicoi] by kujhac
Jun 08, 2009 (3:16 am)
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:36 pm)

Obviously, there's no current getting to the bulb. Time to bring out the multi-meter.
#361 of 419
Re: HELP [mitchicoi] by 91323vic
Jun 08, 2009 (3:16 pm)
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm)

o kay my suggestion is to dismantle the intended guage at the dash, as a static dianosis. run the vehicle until flutuation in the guage appears obviously it wont be items mentioned that you pointed out. so it would be three of the following 1connectors on your harness 2 possibly wiring harness 3 the guages contact itself on the dash card . my remedy acquire a guage from wreckers do a meter test on it if you wish the best way is to run a test try a battery hotwire with a five amp breaker on the guage secondly run a light meter on active guage harness if the light flutuates in the same mannnerit`s along your harness wriggle them . if your also refering to the motor smells hot with the guage sensation this could very well be your cut in switch which operates in four cyclinders under a temperature rating the temperate makes it to its kickin point an operates the thermal fans to adjust the motor working temperature i have a very quick solution permently hotwire a ten amp breaker wire from your thermal fans to ignition main this operates fan as soon as key is turned
#362 of 419
Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking by glowplugz
Jun 19, 2009 (6:55 pm)
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Both door locks on my trusty hatchback are failing. The driver's side one works but not well, and the passenger side lock is frozen. Apparently what happens is that the little internal sliding "cover" inside the lock comes loose & falls down into the mechanism, jamming the lock.
 
I wonder if it's possible to disassemble the lock mechanism and remove the cover piece. Has anyone done this? I don't think I want junkyard locks - even if they happened to have the keys, I don't think used locks would last very long. I'm willing to buy new ones but can't find a "keyed alike" pair anywhere (I don't want a different key for each door).
#363 of 419
Re: Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking [glowplugz] by girlcarbuilder
Jun 21, 2009 (4:55 am)
Reply

Replying to: glowplugz (Jun 19, 2009 6:55 pm)

There are new door locks possibly still available at O'Reilly auto parts. While you are replacing them, spray the entire latch, linkage assembly with lubricant spray to keep it all working well. They come in pairs. I recall them being under the HELP line. If you get dumb looks from the counter help, you may have to ask to see the catalog if they have one. A lot of parts houses say stuff is not available, but it is as a special order. Another source may be a phone call to Rockauto.com.
 
We are going to have to install a new third set soon into ours at 300K. They are getting sloppy. Also an 89 323.
 
Generally these lock assemblies are not rebuildable.
#364 of 419
Re: Help! 1989 323 Door Locks Croaking [girlcarbuilder] by glowplugz
Jun 21, 2009 (6:45 am)
Reply

Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 21, 2009 4:55 am)

Thanks! ...I'll check into those sources
#365 of 419
1989 323/Tracer with blown head gasket by listerine
Jun 27, 2009 (2:15 am)
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Could sure use some help from someone more knowledgeable than I: Car in question is a 1989 Mercury Tracer, but these have a Mazda 323 engine. It overheated, and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew. (Milkshake oil, water drip from exhaust, etc.) I decided to try liquid glass on the head gasket - specifically, "Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair" - but I'm still having problems.
 
I should mention the steps I've taken so far (some of which were just for maintenance):
- Replaced the thermostat.
- Back-flushed the cooling system.
- Flushed the heater core separately.
- Replaced the radiator cap.
- (And as I said, added liquid glass.)
 
What's different now:
The good:
- It starts and runs better.
- There's no more sign of coolant in the oil, nor oil in the coolant.
The bad:
- Smoke is still sputtering out of the front of the engine in some spots, which I take to be unsealed cracks at the head gasket.
- The heater isn't producing hot air.
- The coolant overflow reservoir still bubbles (presumably from exhaust gas.)
 
I'm wondering now if the water pump is bad, and that maybe the liquid glass can't fully circulate to where it can seal the cracks. The radiator hoses stiffen up when the engine is running, which I would have thought meant that there's pressure and that the coolant is being pumped through the system. Except that the top radiator hose gets warm/hot while the bottom hose never really does… I'd rather not replace anything else without knowing that I've nailed down the cause though. Any suggestions?
 
Thanks much in advance.

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