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Mazda 323
Mazda 323

419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
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Hi, Im just new here.Got 94' 323..Exterior is very good and well maintained but aleady have made some renovations over the enigine,i have my clutch change(together w/ all the necessary parts)Now its running good.I only got some problems though,,Whenever i start the car its shaky..Ive tried having the Rpm adjusted but it stil does.And also whenever i tried to step on the clutch it the car shakes,so i have to add some gas,,i dont know what could be the problem.same thing happens everytime i switch on my lights.Car get shaky.It is maybe on the electrical wirings or something?Can you please help me figure out this one
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Replying to: mitchicoi (May 30, 2009 8:17 am) Might check your transmission mount too. The one on my '88 went bad and it shakes like crazy at idle. |
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hello there, Im having problems with my gauges light at the moment,they are so dark seems it has no light bulb at all!already have changed the bulb but theres no improvement...it is about the wirings or maybe i just have to tear the gauges part out into pieces to clean it
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Replying to: mitchicoi (May 31, 2009 3:07 am)
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Replying to: kujhac (May 31, 2009 7:00 am)
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My temperature is somewhat unstable....it sometimes go up half and a bit more then after a while goes down again....ive already changed my aux fan,made it bigger,my temp sensor,thermostat gone already,nothings wrong with radiator either....ive also noticed that this happens when the weather is hot.is this normal or should i look into more serious problems???does it have any connection with my compressor?please help me figure out this puzzle
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm) I had something similar happen on a vehicle about 6 months ago. Nothing was wrong with thermostats, radiator, etc. So it HAD to be a problem with the gauge itself or the connections leading to the gauge. Turned out there was a cracked electrical connector on the back of the gauge that would make or break the connection depending how the car was moving. When the car was cold, it would seem to operate just fine with the needle slowly moving up as the car warmed up. Once the engine reached operating temp, the bouncing needle would start to show up. The needle would never indicate a higher than normal operating temp, so I was pretty sure it wasn't a cooling system problem. My guess is that the wires leading to the gauge would become a bit more flexible once the engine compartment heated up and the movement of the car (especially when accelerating or decelerating) would basically wiggle the wires and make or break the connection, causing the needle to suddenly drop and then just as suddenly come back up to show a correct reading. |
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:36 pm) |
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Replying to: mitchicoi (Jun 07, 2009 7:43 pm) |
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Both door locks on my trusty hatchback are failing. The driver's side one works but not well, and the passenger side lock is frozen. Apparently what happens is that the little internal sliding "cover" inside the lock comes loose & falls down into the mechanism, jamming the lock. I wonder if it's possible to disassemble the lock mechanism and remove the cover piece. Has anyone done this? I don't think I want junkyard locks - even if they happened to have the keys, I don't think used locks would last very long. I'm willing to buy new ones but can't find a "keyed alike" pair anywhere (I don't want a different key for each door).
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