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Mazda 323

420 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 3:37 PM
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My son's 1.6 non-turbo refuses to start after it was power washed. I have no visible spark from the new coil and with the new cap and rotor off I can see that the distributer is truning, but the contact points do not open and close. Am I looking for a new distributer of does the ignition module have anything to do with that? Is the a method for testing the module?
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am) |
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am) Replaced distributor, worked for a short time. Ignitor was then replaced and still running strong. I'm no pro, just throwing it out there. ~A
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My old Michelin Plus 80 tires finally gave out (They still had tread, but the sidewalls were severely cracked). I recently had a set of Kumho Solus KR21 tires installed. Much of the freeway system here in Southern California is constructed of concrete, with lots of parallel grooves cut into the surface. My car is very unstable now when driving on this, and I feel dangerously close to losing control when traveling over about 60 mph. Low speed driving is OK, but on emergency maneuvers the car has pretty scary over steer - possibly due to the soft sidewalls on the Kumhos. I never experienced any of this with the Michelins, and now I'm looking for something to replace the Kumhos with - they are just too dangerous. Although there are only a handful of other tires made in the right size, I'm not sure what to get. After my experience with the Kumhos, I'm not interested in Hankook or any other tire made in China. I'm not sure about Toyo or Uniroyal, but the reviews I've seen seem to suggest that handling on these Japanese made tires is similar to the Chinese ones. If so, I want nothing to do with them, either. Before you say "why not just buy Michelins again?" Well ...I can't - they only make snow & ice versions in a 13" tire - useless for So Cal driving. Here are the choices that I could find in my tire size (155 80 13): * BFGoodrich Control Plus (discontinued, but some stores have them) * Dayton Quadra SE * BF Goodrich Revelation Touring (discontinued, but some stores have them) Please help me choose. If you have another recommendation, I'd love to hear it. Thanks!
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 02, 2008 3:24 pm) |
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 02, 2008 3:24 pm)
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Please HELP I have 12 Volts on the Coil with the key ON. I also have the 12V at the Rotor cap with the key ON. I have replaced the Coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I don't know what to check next. Also maybe no GAS???? Any help would be great Thanks
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Replying to: buckeyeboy74 (Oct 05, 2008 2:27 pm) Any way, the pick up gets the signal when it works, sends it to the computer which amplifies, times and then sends it to the coil. I have yet to have a computer problem on ours with almost 300K on it. Knock on wood. Note again to everyone who is reading. The older these cars get, the more common this problem will become as the engines wear out. I have also written a modification for this distributor as well. Only for those well versed in mechanics. |
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Replying to: 91323vic (Oct 02, 2008 6:11 pm) |
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Hey all! I just bought an 89 323 for $150 . . . shockingly, aside from some surface rust, she appears road worthy! I was planning to give the car to a friend who has two small kids and needs some simple transportation, so there is one issue I need to address before I give it to her: When accelerating between 40 mph and 50 mph (auto trans), the car begins to jerk and stutter, lose power, feels almost as though she might stall out. This problem can usually be solved by flooring the pedal for a minute in overdrive, and then backing back down to speed . . . obviously not a perfect solution . . . She also seems to down shift kind of violently when slowing to about 50 mph. Also when idling in drive, there is a "clunk" noise and a slight jerk every 30 seconds or so . . . I've tested all speeds over the past week, and these seem to be the only windows where there is difficulty. I've never in my life had a car with an auto trans, so maybe this is a generic thing that is easy to fix and I just don't recognize it. . . . Any ideas as to what to try? I'm not a mechanic or anything, but I'm not completely afraid of opening the hood, or at least making an informed request of the mechanic rather than just dropping off the car . . . Car has 120,000 miles, and I have service records if you want me to check for anything in particular. I'm not looking to put a ton of money into it, but it seems a shame to scrap a car for what might be a simple fix. Zippy little thing, I am kind of enjoying it. |
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