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Mazda 323

420 messages,  Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 3:37 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


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#324 of 420
89 323 No Start by geoshanna
Aug 20, 2008 (2:50 am)
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My son's 1.6 non-turbo refuses to start after it was power washed. I have no visible spark from the new coil and with the new cap and rotor off I can see that the distributer is truning, but the contact points do not open and close. Am I looking for a new distributer of does the ignition module have anything to do with that? Is the a method for testing the module?
#325 of 420
Re: 89 323 No Start [geoshanna] by 91323vic
Aug 20, 2008 (6:37 am)
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am)

okay first i would look at the points turn on ignition and with a insulated screwdriver open the points look for pitting or dags at the points surface second check off the dissy shaft for wore conponents third check off the advanced plate could be water damaged and stuck in advance fourth capacitor or modular may be damaged buy only mazda part module fifth check white and red striped main current wire with a light tester if it lights up current is to dissy if not the centre consol on the passenger side undo cover and the ecu is there and the fuel regulator the black box pull this out in the terminal you can hot wire it to the dissy be carefull as this is also a part of the ignition system and you can start the car from this terminal you can crank it from here in other words so dont let anyone under your bonnet until you find this out anyway if you find your hotwiring start the engine the electric loom needs attention the man in the can wd and emery disconnect the connection junctions and emery the male side and reconnect i would never recomend using the hotwire on a daily basis only for check offs becarefull buying modules that are aftermarket the sequencing is not compatable happy motoring 91323vic
#326 of 420
Re: 89 323 No Start [geoshanna] by thevine
Aug 20, 2008 (8:28 am)
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am)

A few messages back I mentioned same problem, what I did not note was the rainstorm which coincided.
 
Replaced distributor, worked for a short time. Ignitor was then replaced and still running strong.
 
I'm no pro, just throwing it out there.
 
~A
#327 of 420
Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback by glowplugz
Oct 02, 2008 (3:24 pm)
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My old Michelin Plus 80 tires finally gave out (They still had tread, but the sidewalls were severely cracked). I recently had a set of Kumho Solus KR21 tires installed.
 
Much of the freeway system here in Southern California is constructed of concrete, with lots of parallel grooves cut into the surface. My car is very unstable now when driving on this, and I feel dangerously close to losing control when traveling over about 60 mph. Low speed driving is OK, but on emergency maneuvers the car has pretty scary over steer - possibly due to the soft sidewalls on the Kumhos.
 
I never experienced any of this with the Michelins, and now I'm looking for something to replace the Kumhos with - they are just too dangerous. Although there are only a handful of other tires made in the right size, I'm not sure what to get.
 
After my experience with the Kumhos, I'm not interested in Hankook or any other tire made in China. I'm not sure about Toyo or Uniroyal, but the reviews I've seen seem to suggest that handling on these Japanese made tires is similar to the Chinese ones. If so, I want nothing to do with them, either. Before you say "why not just buy Michelins again?" Well ...I can't - they only make snow & ice versions in a 13" tire - useless for So Cal driving.
 
Here are the choices that I could find in my tire size (155 80 13):
 
* BFGoodrich Control Plus (discontinued, but some stores have them)
* Dayton Quadra SE
* BF Goodrich Revelation Touring (discontinued, but some stores have them)
 
Please help me choose. If you have another recommendation, I'd love to hear it.
 
Thanks!
#328 of 420
Re: Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback [glowplugz] by 91323vic
Oct 02, 2008 (5:38 pm)
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 02, 2008 3:24 pm)

hi glow plug if your being challenged by purchasing tyres in 13 inch my suggestion would be to maybe look at a rim change along with tyres to give you a greater variety of choices as for your highways you travell on, concrete gets very hot so it possibly heats your tyres to their optimun and being front wheel drive governs steering performance here`s my suggestion measure distance between centres of studs to determine stud positions for instances my are 72mms my rims are a later addition of a98 model and are 15inch if you dont know how to do this go to your local wrecker with a rim of yours and run down the mazda isle and find later to lastest models that have the same stud pattern to get a evaluation on what rim suit yours im not sure how far you want to go with this otherwise you could really upgrade by taking shocky struts and hubs and replacing yours because it may be worn conponents like shocky struts wheelbearings steering rack conponents anyway i hope this will resolve a tyre choice for you and give you some food for thought anyway check wheel bearings while car standinghold at 9 to 3 pull inout rapidly check all wheels check shocky struts push down above each strut and watch for excessive bounce of vehicle check all of them to much to list on steering just got to say checkassist link rubbers back axle and stabilizer bar rubbers 91323vic
#329 of 420
Re: Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback [glowplugz] by 91323vic
Oct 02, 2008 (6:11 pm)
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 02, 2008 3:24 pm)

my tyres are nankans at 15 x 205s they seem to be good wearing on standard black rim sorry about not address the tyre issue in 13s it seems you had done your research my biggest thing is looking in the used piles to assertain whats good and bad and that`s usually at the wreckers 91323vic
#330 of 420
No Spark on my 89 Mazda 323 by buckeyeboy74
Oct 05, 2008 (2:27 pm)
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Please HELP
I have 12 Volts on the Coil with the key ON. I also have the 12V at the Rotor cap with the key ON.
I have replaced the Coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I don't know what to check next.
Also maybe no GAS????
 
Any help would be great
Thanks
#331 of 420
Re: No Spark on my 89 Mazda 323 [buckeyeboy74] by girlcarbuilder
Oct 06, 2008 (10:17 am)
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Replying to: buckeyeboy74 (Oct 05, 2008 2:27 pm)

Spark starts with a very expensive electronic pick up unit in the distributor. If it gets too much oil on it, it will not sense the pick up on the shaft. These cars are notorious for this problem. Use some Dawn dishwashing liquid to clean out the cap, rotor if oil containamated and partially disassemble the distributor and do the same. Dry it out well before putting back in service. Refer to my earlier posts on this problem. I have written a lot about it.
 
Any way, the pick up gets the signal when it works, sends it to the computer which amplifies, times and then sends it to the coil. I have yet to have a computer problem on ours with almost 300K on it. Knock on wood.
 
Note again to everyone who is reading. The older these cars get, the more common this problem will become as the engines wear out. I have also written a modification for this distributor as well. Only for those well versed in mechanics.
#332 of 420
Re: Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback [91323vic] by glowplugz
Oct 12, 2008 (3:26 pm)
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Replying to: 91323vic (Oct 02, 2008 6:11 pm)

Thanks 91323vic... On the advice of a tire dealer, I had new Uniroyal Tiger Paw Freedom 175 70 13 tires installed. High speed handling is a little better but now there is a surprising amount of steering resistance - it kinda feels like I'm driving a truck. I don't want to change rims, so I might have to go back to 155 80 13 tires (the stock rims are 13 x 4.5").
#333 of 420
New Owner of 89 232 - tranny question? by yeclek
Oct 12, 2008 (6:36 pm)
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Hey all!
 
I just bought an 89 323 for $150 . . . shockingly, aside from some surface rust, she appears road worthy!
 
I was planning to give the car to a friend who has two small kids and needs some simple transportation, so there is one issue I need to address before I give it to her:
 
When accelerating between 40 mph and 50 mph (auto trans), the car begins to jerk and stutter, lose power, feels almost as though she might stall out. This problem can usually be solved by flooring the pedal for a minute in overdrive, and then backing back down to speed . . . obviously not a perfect solution . . . She also seems to down shift kind of violently when slowing to about 50 mph.
 
Also when idling in drive, there is a "clunk" noise and a slight jerk every 30 seconds or so . . .
 
I've tested all speeds over the past week, and these seem to be the only windows where there is difficulty.
 
I've never in my life had a car with an auto trans, so maybe this is a generic thing that is easy to fix and I just don't recognize it. . . .
 
Any ideas as to what to try? I'm not a mechanic or anything, but I'm not completely afraid of opening the hood, or at least making an informed request of the mechanic rather than just dropping off the car . . .
 
Car has 120,000 miles, and I have service records if you want me to check for anything in particular.
 
I'm not looking to put a ton of money into it, but it seems a shame to scrap a car for what might be a simple fix. Zippy little thing, I am kind of enjoying it.

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