- #319 of 419
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mazda da da da 323
by 91323vic
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Aug 17, 2008 (6:32 pm)
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oh no left my message in the wrong forum anyway i started a project mazda 323 astina it was a single and transplanted a dohc most of the parasitics are interchangeable such as injector kit dissy eng mounts (1) the temperature pressure switch was not performing and governing my rev rate at about 4 grand when i connected up so i hot wired the fuel regulator terminal and open my air intake thru the throttle body screw which gave me full rev but hesitant off idle and a road test is reluctant to deliver any performance which lead me to think back to the dissy as i may have my system 180 out in the dissy its just the 91 dissy shaft nodes are different to 97 dissy shaft nodes which governs where i can position it should i exchange the nodes from each system or buy a new fuel regulator to get my tps working appropiately or do both has anyone had these troubles i love my da da da da and i would love to finish what i have started thats just who i am 91323 vic
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- #320 of 419
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Re: Clutch replacement [sschmid]
by 91323vic
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Aug 17, 2008 (10:53 pm)
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Replying to: sschmid (Nov 16, 2007 6:50 am)
yeah thats not a big job its just intense to be thinking of your motor positioning a 17 14 12 10 mm long sockets& ring spanners and 10mm pipe spanner undo your battery holder and electrics undo gear levers hoses starter motor release the e mount underneath bat tray take clutch line& plunger off undo the front and back e mount from sub structure but keep them on the box then jack body of vehicle up moderately in height undo your wheel and seperate from the shocky posts this will help in release of cv joint at this stage you will go in under your injector system with a crow bar just simply use the weight to pry it away this cv becomes a real hassle when removing the box so its got to go next is a design complexity you can now see that the e mount on the back is definitely not going to release the bolts this is where we jack the actual motor up to see the top bolt exposed over sub framing now drop the whole thing back down and start on the front e mount undoing removing using the jack under the gearbox undo gearbox substructure and remove now lower everything down with jack to expose the bottom e mount bolt at the back and remove it now your ready to unbolt the gearbox split the box from underneath near the sump section an get up above it and jiggle out the box is really light in weight underleft side of car is exit point for inspection plastic guard should be removed first as i said you jack becomes a favorable tool in getting your job started and finished and as always how youremove it is how you replace it and because of torque settings on all bolts i used a handy 600mm extention on my breaker bar incidently the driveshaft alignment can be set by a socket arm and veiwing it thru the left side for centralizing clutch plate installation purposes it really isnt a big job just get in and get it done 4 cups of tea and a sandwich or two and your boy will be empowered to do anything that comes along now theres your tool list get inspired with him and build your bonds together 91323vic
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- #321 of 419
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Re: Chat Night [pf_flyer]
by 91323vic
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Aug 17, 2008 (11:08 pm)
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Aug 12, 2008 11:22 am)
i want to know what time i would be able to hook up with the chat as i live in australia so what time would i need to be on board over here any idea ijust not sure how long the time difference is 91323vic
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- #322 of 419
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Time shift
by pf_flyer HOST
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Aug 18, 2008 (5:05 am)
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Since your profile says you live in Queensland, you're 14 hours ahead of me, so 9PM ET on Tuesday would be 11AM Wednesday mornings for you.
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- #323 of 419
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Re: Time shift [pf_flyer]
by 91323vic
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Aug 18, 2008 (5:16 pm)
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Aug 18, 2008 5:05 am)
thank you so very much pf -flyer i will love to talk to people to anyone who i can help or help my self project and enthusiastic with mazda s and the time shift i tried too find the time difference but America has such a large area they requested a area vicinity which shot me in the foot so i needed to rely on someone there with a location thanks i ll be there heres one for everyone interested ( you tube ) astina f 323 mazda see what the English do with the 323 some hot projects to see just take a quick look you will be there for hours have a great day and thanks again 91323vic
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- #324 of 419
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89 323 No Start
by geoshanna
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Aug 20, 2008 (2:50 am)
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My son's 1.6 non-turbo refuses to start after it was power washed. I have no visible spark from the new coil and with the new cap and rotor off I can see that the distributer is truning, but the contact points do not open and close. Am I looking for a new distributer of does the ignition module have anything to do with that? Is the a method for testing the module?
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- #325 of 419
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Re: 89 323 No Start [geoshanna]
by 91323vic
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Aug 20, 2008 (6:37 am)
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am)
okay first i would look at the points turn on ignition and with a insulated screwdriver open the points look for pitting or dags at the points surface second check off the dissy shaft for wore conponents third check off the advanced plate could be water damaged and stuck in advance fourth capacitor or modular may be damaged buy only mazda part module fifth check white and red striped main current wire with a light tester if it lights up current is to dissy if not the centre consol on the passenger side undo cover and the ecu is there and the fuel regulator the black box pull this out in the terminal you can hot wire it to the dissy be carefull as this is also a part of the ignition system and you can start the car from this terminal you can crank it from here in other words so dont let anyone under your bonnet until you find this out anyway if you find your hotwiring start the engine the electric loom needs attention the man in the can wd and emery disconnect the connection junctions and emery the male side and reconnect i would never recomend using the hotwire on a daily basis only for check offs becarefull buying modules that are aftermarket the sequencing is not compatable happy motoring 91323vic
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- #326 of 419
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Re: 89 323 No Start [geoshanna]
by thevine
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Aug 20, 2008 (8:28 am)
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Replying to: geoshanna (Aug 20, 2008 2:50 am)
A few messages back I mentioned same problem, what I did not note was the rainstorm which coincided.
Replaced distributor, worked for a short time. Ignitor was then replaced and still running strong.
I'm no pro, just throwing it out there.
~A
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- #327 of 419
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Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback
by glowplugz
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Oct 02, 2008 (3:24 pm)
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My old Michelin Plus 80 tires finally gave out (They still had tread, but the sidewalls were severely cracked). I recently had a set of Kumho Solus KR21 tires installed.
Much of the freeway system here in Southern California is constructed of concrete, with lots of parallel grooves cut into the surface. My car is very unstable now when driving on this, and I feel dangerously close to losing control when traveling over about 60 mph. Low speed driving is OK, but on emergency maneuvers the car has pretty scary over steer - possibly due to the soft sidewalls on the Kumhos.
I never experienced any of this with the Michelins, and now I'm looking for something to replace the Kumhos with - they are just too dangerous. Although there are only a handful of other tires made in the right size, I'm not sure what to get.
After my experience with the Kumhos, I'm not interested in Hankook or any other tire made in China. I'm not sure about Toyo or Uniroyal, but the reviews I've seen seem to suggest that handling on these Japanese made tires is similar to the Chinese ones. If so, I want nothing to do with them, either. Before you say "why not just buy Michelins again?" Well ...I can't - they only make snow & ice versions in a 13" tire - useless for So Cal driving.
Here are the choices that I could find in my tire size (155 80 13):
* BFGoodrich Control Plus (discontinued, but some stores have them)
* Dayton Quadra SE
* BF Goodrich Revelation Touring (discontinued, but some stores have them)
Please help me choose. If you have another recommendation, I'd love to hear it.
Thanks!
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- #328 of 419
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Re: Need Help Buying New Tires for '89 323 Hatchback [glowplugz]
by 91323vic
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Oct 02, 2008 (5:38 pm)
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Replying to: glowplugz (Oct 02, 2008 3:24 pm)
hi glow plug if your being challenged by purchasing tyres in 13 inch my suggestion would be to maybe look at a rim change along with tyres to give you a greater variety of choices as for your highways you travell on, concrete gets very hot so it possibly heats your tyres to their optimun and being front wheel drive governs steering performance here`s my suggestion measure distance between centres of studs to determine stud positions for instances my are 72mms my rims are a later addition of a98 model and are 15inch if you dont know how to do this go to your local wrecker with a rim of yours and run down the mazda isle and find later to lastest models that have the same stud pattern to get a evaluation on what rim suit yours im not sure how far you want to go with this otherwise you could really upgrade by taking shocky struts and hubs and replacing yours because it may be worn conponents like shocky struts wheelbearings steering rack conponents anyway i hope this will resolve a tyre choice for you and give you some food for thought anyway check wheel bearings while car standinghold at 9 to 3 pull inout rapidly check all wheels check shocky struts push down above each strut and watch for excessive bounce of vehicle check all of them to much to list on steering just got to say checkassist link rubbers back axle  and stabilizer bar rubbers 91323vic
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