You are here: Forums Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323

Mazda 323

420 messages,  Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 3:37 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback

Messages Page 33 of 43 1 ... 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 ... 43 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

#313 of 420 88 Mazda 323 1.6 liter stalls by eagle0199 Jul 28, 2008 (6:09 am)
I've been following with interest all of the postings on engine troubleshooting. My 88 323 with the 1.6 liter engine would run perfectly when cold, but warmed up and started stalling out, cutting out, no power, etc. With 230K miles, I thought it might be the catalytic converter, but after changing it, no difference. I also changed out the coil, one spark plug wire, distributor cap and roter, new plugs, timing checked, but only finally fixed the problem by changing out the distributor. It cost $28 at the local U-Pull-It, and by playing around with the old distributer I found that one of the problems was the vaccuum advance. It's easy to check - just take the distributor cap off, connect a short hose to the vaccuum advance, and suck on it while watching the plate under the roter. The plate inside the distributor will rotate. There are two vaccuum lines to the vacuum advance - check them both. I also saw mention in this forum of the capacitor on the side of the distributor being a problem. My new distributor had the capacitor wire broken off (and the mounting screw frozen in place so it couldn't be changed) but the distributor worked anyway. So far I haven't seen any difference with or without the capacitor
#314 of 420 Transmission~1989 323 auto by thevine Aug 07, 2008 (9:54 am)
Seems to be a hesitance when auto trans shifts, also a little clunk between gears. A mechanic told me I should do a whole list of stuff which added to excess $$ & much was blah, blah and costly. Unfortunatly attention should have paid to individual items, one being brown trans fluid said to be burnt & need changing.   The problem has become more obvious and my question is: have I done damage to the tranny? or will a new filter/fluid change turn back the clock to smooth shifting of the past?   Also posting for others to pay attention to trans fluid condition if I indeed greatly reduced future life of trans, still under 100,000 =)   I have had 1 problem with car stalling, no spark and oil in distributor. Changed cap & rotor only to have the problem resurface in another 20 miles.   Ignitor was the problem.   Thanks in advance for any feedback on the tranny,   ~Art Replies to this message: kujhac (Aug 07, 2008 1:27 pm) girlcarbuilder (Aug 07, 2008 1:46 pm)
#315 of 420 Re: Transmission~1989 323 auto [thevine] by kujhac Aug 07, 2008 (1:27 pm)
Replying to: thevine (Aug 07, 2008 9:54 am) I would think it will ultimately wind up as to the condition of the clutches. I would first do a standard fluid change and filter change and put in some Lucas transmission treatment. If that doesn't work, then it'd be a tranny rebuild.   I have a project 1980 Grand Marquis that wouldn't shift out of first gear until 45 MPH. Drained the tranny pan fluid and put in a new filter and it shifts perfectly. Of course, it's not electronically controlled like newer models.   I don't take a garage's diagnosis on face value without researching and knowing what's the real situation. Many garages will take advantage of you if you let them.
#316 of 420 Re: Transmission~1989 323 auto [thevine] by girlcarbuilder Aug 07, 2008 (1:46 pm)
Replying to: thevine (Aug 07, 2008 9:54 am) Been out of the loop a lot. Okay, smell the fluid. If it smells burned, bad news. Dirty/Brown is also not good news. That means a lot of clutch material has been used up. In an automatic transmission, the clutches hold drums from turning while certain gears rotate. Sometimes as someone else earlier stated, you can get by with a fluid change. You will be rebuilding sometime soon. Cheap compared to car notes.   I recommend when you rebuild to have a good cooler installed and also an inline filter installed. Transmission supply houses carry them, not the regular parts houses. Many fleets use in line transmission filters and change them every 10K miles to keep from having to do trannny rebuilds. Lots of discussion as to whether you install before or after your coolers. Always still use the cooler in the radiator in addition to the heavy duty cooler you add on. Same story, discussion on the pros and cons on how to hook it up. Find a good transmission man by word of mouth and the BBB.
#317 of 420 Chat Night by pf_flyer HOST Aug 12, 2008 (11:22 am)
Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!   The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members! See you there! Replies to this message: 91323vic (Aug 17, 2008 11:08 pm)
#319 of 420 mazda da da da 323 by 91323vic Aug 17, 2008 (6:32 pm)
oh no left my message in the wrong forum anyway i started a project mazda 323 astina it was a single and transplanted a dohc most of the parasitics are interchangeable such as injector kit dissy eng mounts (1) the temperature pressure switch was not performing and governing my rev rate at about 4 grand when i connected up so i hot wired the fuel regulator terminal and open my air intake thru the throttle body screw which gave me full rev but hesitant off idle and a road test is reluctant to deliver any performance which lead me to think back to the dissy as i may have my system 180 out in the dissy its just the 91 dissy shaft nodes are different to 97 dissy shaft nodes which governs where i can position it should i exchange the nodes from each system or buy a new fuel regulator to get my tps working appropiately or do both has anyone had these troubles i love my da da da da and i would love to finish what i have started thats just who i am 91323 vic
#320 of 420 Re: Clutch replacement [sschmid] by 91323vic Aug 17, 2008 (10:53 pm)
Replying to: sschmid (Nov 16, 2007 6:50 am) yeah thats not a big job its just intense to be thinking of your motor positioning a 17 14 12 10 mm long sockets& ring spanners and 10mm pipe spanner undo your battery holder and electrics undo gear levers hoses starter motor release the e mount underneath bat tray take clutch line& plunger off undo the front and back e mount from sub structure but keep them on the box then jack body of vehicle up moderately in height undo your wheel and seperate from the shocky posts this will help in release of cv joint at this stage you will go in under your injector system with a crow bar just simply use the weight to pry it away this cv becomes a real hassle when removing the box so its got to go next is a design complexity you can now see that the e mount on the back is definitely not going to release the bolts this is where we jack the actual motor up to see the top bolt exposed over sub framing now drop the whole thing back down and start on the front e mount undoing removing using the jack under the gearbox undo gearbox substructure and remove now lower everything down with jack to expose the bottom e mount bolt at the back and remove it now your ready to unbolt the gearbox split the box from underneath near the sump section an get up above it and jiggle out the box is really light in weight underleft side of car is exit point for inspection plastic guard should be removed first as i said you jack becomes a favorable tool in getting your job started and finished and as always how youremove it is how you replace it and because of torque settings on all bolts i used a handy 600mm extention on my breaker bar incidently the driveshaft alignment can be set by a socket arm and veiwing it thru the left side for centralizing clutch plate installation purposes it really isnt a big job just get in and get it done 4 cups of tea and a sandwich or two and your boy will be empowered to do anything that comes along now theres your tool list get inspired with him and build your bonds together 91323vic
#321 of 420 Re: Chat Night [pf_flyer] by 91323vic Aug 17, 2008 (11:08 pm)
Replying to: pf_flyer (Aug 12, 2008 11:22 am) i want to know what time i would be able to hook up with the chat as i live in australia so what time would i need to be on board over here any idea ijust not sure how long the time difference is 91323vic
#322 of 420 Time shift by pf_flyer HOST Aug 18, 2008 (5:05 am)
Since your profile says you live in Queensland, you're 14 hours ahead of me, so 9PM ET on Tuesday would be 11AM Wednesday mornings for you. Replies to this message: 91323vic (Aug 18, 2008 5:16 pm)

Messages Page 33 of 43 1 ... 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 ... 43 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

You are here: Forums Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323