Sign In Join 



Mazda 323

419 messages,  Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


Messages Page 32 of 42
1
...
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
...
42
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#311 of 419
Re: my 323 might come back from the dead... [needwheels2] by girlcarbuilder
Jun 15, 2008 (5:00 pm)
Reply

Replying to: needwheels2 (Jun 15, 2008 7:06 am)

Personally I am not familiar with this design problem, but I am aware of a history of the 89 having the snout of the crankshaft break off. That happened on the original engine in ours. When I found that out, we dropped a crate engine in it from the dealer for 2 grand. When the first timing belt change came up, the crate engine uses a larger seal from a Miata on the crank. It was a ah ha moment that something was corrected.
 
Further research on the different years of 323's at Advance Auto's website revealed that there were several different snout sizes used from year to year. Somewhat different topic about the crank, but may give you a bit more insight into what you are dealing with.
 
Taking a break from the car during the summer is not a bad idea. It can give you time to go to the library and try to find some Mitchell manuals and read up on it. See if you can find any service bulletins about it as well. It also pays to try to pick the brains of a dealer parts person about it as well. They are more than happy to give info when they make sales also. On the other hand, they would like to see us bury our 323 and buy new!
 
As for GTX's idea, I am not crazy about it, but I would be game to try it before pulling a motor for a overhaul. The worse that can happen is still the piston and the valve dance. Then at that point you could address a proper repair to the crankshaft again during a overhaul. Still cheaper than buying new. Couple it with a 5 speed, that car should pulll better than 40 mpg after an overhaul..
#312 of 419
1988 Mazda 323 Crankshaft by sschofield69
Jun 24, 2008 (8:54 pm)
Reply
My girlfriends dad just gave us his mazda which needed the crankshaft bolt. I went out and bought the $10 bolt then went to install it. Guess what i come across, Not only did the bolt snap but so did the end of the shaft. So now i am in quite the jam. How hard is it to pull the crankshaft out of the motor while it is still in the car? If anyone can help me solve this problem or even give me some pointers as to what i should do, please feel free to reply here or even email me at schofield469yahoo.ca
Every ones help is welcome. I really wanna get this car going by august the latest.
Thanks everyone.
 
Sean
#313 of 419
88 Mazda 323 1.6 liter stalls by eagle0199
Jul 28, 2008 (6:09 am)
Reply
I've been following with interest all of the postings on engine troubleshooting. My 88 323 with the 1.6 liter engine would run perfectly when cold, but warmed up and started stalling out, cutting out, no power, etc. With 230K miles, I thought it might be the catalytic converter, but after changing it, no difference. I also changed out the coil, one spark plug wire, distributor cap and roter, new plugs, timing checked, but only finally fixed the problem by changing out the distributor. It cost $28 at the local U-Pull-It, and by playing around with the old distributer I found that one of the problems was the vaccuum advance. It's easy to check - just take the distributor cap off, connect a short hose to the vaccuum advance, and suck on it while watching the plate under the roter. The plate inside the distributor will rotate. There are two vaccuum lines to the vacuum advance - check them both. I also saw mention in this forum of the capacitor on the side of the distributor being a problem. My new distributor had the capacitor wire broken off (and the mounting screw frozen in place so it couldn't be changed) but the distributor worked anyway. So far I haven't seen any difference with or without the capacitor
#314 of 419
Transmission~1989 323 auto by thevine
Aug 07, 2008 (9:54 am)
Reply
Seems to be a hesitance when auto trans shifts, also a little clunk between gears. A mechanic told me I should do a whole list of stuff which added to excess $$ & much was blah, blah and costly.
Unfortunatly attention should have paid to individual items, one being brown trans fluid said to be burnt & need changing.
 
The problem has become more obvious and my question is: have I done damage to the tranny? or will a new filter/fluid change turn back the clock to smooth shifting of the past?
 
Also posting for others to pay attention to trans fluid condition if I indeed greatly reduced future life of trans, still under 100,000 =)
 
I have had 1 problem with car stalling, no spark and oil in distributor.
Changed cap & rotor only to have the problem resurface in another 20 miles.
 
Ignitor was the problem.
 
Thanks in advance for any feedback on the tranny,
 
~Art
#315 of 419
Re: Transmission~1989 323 auto [thevine] by kujhac
Aug 07, 2008 (1:27 pm)
Reply

Replying to: thevine (Aug 07, 2008 9:54 am)

I would think it will ultimately wind up as to the condition of the clutches. I would first do a standard fluid change and filter change and put in some Lucas transmission treatment. If that doesn't work, then it'd be a tranny rebuild.
 
I have a project 1980 Grand Marquis that wouldn't shift out of first gear until 45 MPH.
Drained the tranny pan fluid and put in a new filter and it shifts perfectly. Of course, it's not electronically controlled like newer models.
 
I don't take a garage's diagnosis on face value without researching and knowing what's the real situation. Many garages will take advantage of you if you let them.
#316 of 419
Re: Transmission~1989 323 auto [thevine] by girlcarbuilder
Aug 07, 2008 (1:46 pm)
Reply

Replying to: thevine (Aug 07, 2008 9:54 am)

Been out of the loop a lot. Okay, smell the fluid. If it smells burned, bad news. Dirty/Brown is also not good news. That means a lot of clutch material has been used up. In an automatic transmission, the clutches hold drums from turning while certain gears rotate. Sometimes as someone else earlier stated, you can get by with a fluid change. You will be rebuilding sometime soon. Cheap compared to car notes.
 
I recommend when you rebuild to have a good cooler installed and also an inline filter installed. Transmission supply houses carry them, not the regular parts houses. Many fleets use in line transmission filters and change them every 10K miles to keep from having to do trannny rebuilds. Lots of discussion as to whether you install before or after your coolers. Always still use the cooler in the radiator in addition to the heavy duty cooler you add on. Same story, discussion on the pros and cons on how to hook it up. Find a good transmission man by word of mouth and the BBB.
#317 of 419
Chat Night by pf_flyer HOST
Aug 12, 2008 (11:22 am)
Reply
Tuesday means Mazda chat night! Mazda ownership is not a requirement! Just bring yourself and your love of cars and the desire to discuss anything and everything automotive and you're good to go!
 
The chat opens at 8:45 pm ET and runs until 10 pm ET. I hope you're able to join us tonight to meet and greet with your fellow CarSpace members!
See you there!
#319 of 419
mazda da da da 323 by 91323vic
Aug 17, 2008 (6:32 pm)
Reply
oh no left my message in the wrong forum anyway i started a project mazda 323 astina it was a single and transplanted a dohc most of the parasitics are interchangeable such as injector kit dissy eng mounts (1) the temperature pressure switch was not performing and governing my rev rate at about 4 grand when i connected up so i hot wired the fuel regulator terminal and open my air intake thru the throttle body screw which gave me full rev but hesitant off idle and a road test is reluctant to deliver any performance which lead me to think back to the dissy as i may have my system 180 out in the dissy its just the 91 dissy shaft nodes are different to 97 dissy shaft nodes which governs where i can position it should i exchange the nodes from each system or buy a new fuel regulator to get my tps working appropiately or do both has anyone had these troubles i love my da da da da and i would love to finish what i have started thats just who i am 91323 vic
#320 of 419
Re: Clutch replacement [sschmid] by 91323vic
Aug 17, 2008 (10:53 pm)
Reply

Replying to: sschmid (Nov 16, 2007 6:50 am)

yeah thats not a big job its just intense to be thinking of your motor positioning a 17 14 12 10 mm long sockets& ring spanners and 10mm pipe spanner undo your battery holder and electrics undo gear levers hoses starter motor release the e mount underneath bat tray take clutch line& plunger off undo the front and back e mount from sub structure but keep them on the box then jack body of vehicle up moderately in height undo your wheel and seperate from the shocky posts this will help in release of cv joint at this stage you will go in under your injector system with a crow bar just simply use the weight to pry it away this cv becomes a real hassle when removing the box so its got to go next is a design complexity you can now see that the e mount on the back is definitely not going to release the bolts this is where we jack the actual motor up to see the top bolt exposed over sub framing now drop the whole thing back down and start on the front e mount undoing removing using the jack under the gearbox undo gearbox substructure and remove now lower everything down with jack to expose the bottom e mount bolt at the back and remove it now your ready to unbolt the gearbox split the box from underneath near the sump section an get up above it and jiggle out the box is really light in weight underleft side of car is exit point for inspection plastic guard should be removed first as i said you jack becomes a favorable tool in getting your job started and finished and as always how youremove it is how you replace it and because of torque settings on all bolts i used a handy 600mm extention on my breaker bar incidently the driveshaft alignment can be set by a socket arm and veiwing it thru the left side for centralizing clutch plate installation purposes it really isnt a big job just get in and get it done 4 cups of tea and a sandwich or two and your boy will be empowered to do anything that comes along now theres your tool list get inspired with him and build your bonds together 91323vic

Messages Page 32 of 42
1
...
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
...
42
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion
To POST a message, please Sign In.

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement