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Hatchbacks Mazda 323 Mazda 323
419 messages, Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM
You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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| If it has a completely rebuilt engine, than it may be a pretty good car. Avoid the turbo, as they put more stress on the rotary engine and are less reliable. My 84 has been very reliable over the past year, despite the fact I bought it for $200. All it has needed was a new starter, left front rotor, caliper and a set of pads, and a clutch slave cylinder. It always starts up first time and runs really good. However, you MUST be religious in changing the oil every 3000 miles max. Rotary engines actually burn oil by design so you must also get in the habit of checking the oil level at least once every 2 weeks if not more. I recommend using Catrol 20W-50 oil as that is what is recommended by numerous places. Rotary engines run hotter than a piston engine, so the thicker weight oil is better for it. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL! It can cause major problems with the rotor seals and lead to an engine failure. I can't think of anything else to tell you. Was there any specific questions you had about it? Hope my advice helps. | |
| thanks for the info | |
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are two totally different cars. Can't even imagine these two cars owned by the same person. RX7 is a purist sports car for someone who has the skill to drive it right and who has the mechanical knowledge to fix it when it breaks down, which is not at all infrequent . The 323, especially the strip version, on the other hand, is the car for cheap guys like myself, who is constantly looking for good reliable transportation for the least money. 
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| If you are a cheap guy, than you would have loved my 84 RX7. It was amazingly dependable and has never left me stranded in the year I have owned it. It always starts up first try and never stalls. Total amount of money I have put into it in a year, including the $200 purchase price, is a paltry $500. And we are not talking about a beater rusted out piece of junk that only a mother could love. This car is still gorgeous after all these years and constantly gets admiring looks. The paint is in good condition, the body has no dents, scratches, or rust, and the interior is in excellent condition considering its age. Granted, the AC doesn't work, and it has its quirks (carbureator hesitates some, clutch is not the easiest to engage smoothly, the exhaust has a few leaks which causes some stinky smells to get into the car, and it burns oil by design so you must check it often, though it does not visibly smoke). Anyway, sorry for blabbing about the RX7 in the 323 forum, but I thought you might be interested in how cheap to operate some RX7s really are. It has been the cheapest car to operate that I have ever owned!! | |
| i gotta say that i love my 323, but i'm longing for something faster, i just started a job at a car dealership and am learning a lot about cars lately, i'm trying to decide whether to put money into my 323 or if i should save up for something faster and more fun, from what i understand, my 323 will run forever as long as i change the oil every 3000mi, but, if i get something like an rx7, i'll have to spend a lot more time to take care of it, well we'll see what i've got money for!! | |
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Hi, I really need some help. I've got a 1992 MAZDA 323 that has a recurring stalling problem that no one has been able to solve. If you have advice about how to solve it, or if you know where I can get good advice (via another web-posting or some other source), I'd really appreciate hearing from you. The pattern of stall-outs is seemingly indecipherable. It will stall on the highway or just going around the block. It usually gives a hesitation or two, and the accelerator becomes useless for 10-60 seconds before it stalls completely. It's a standard transmission, and if necessary while driving I can turn the car turn the car off as the stall threatens and then turn it back on–and it then runs fine again. Likewise, if it stalls out completely, I can turn off the car and then start it immediately with no problem. The interval between stall-outs is usually at least a day and sometimes weeks. Go figure. This problem first occurred in about 1993. No one could solve it, but it disappeared. Then it returned a few years after that. And now it's back again, off and on since the fall of 2000. Here's a record of what my latest mechanic has tried: –Tried to duplicate problem but couldn't. –Completed tuneup: sparkplugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, oil change. –Checked for computer fault codes. Found code 17. This code refers to the oxygen sensor, the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and the computer itself. –Fuel-pressure test showed fuel pressure to be just a touch above normal (if it was lower than normal it would have been a good chance that it was source of the stalling problem). This test was done with the car hooked to a gas analyzer which registers the fuel/air ratio. –Replaced oxygen sensor and fuel pressure regulator, and checked these new parts with the car hooked to the gas analyzer. The car was run for quite a while and monitored throughout the day but never stalled, nor did the fuel/air ratio change at anytime. Car stalled out several days later, and a few more times after that. –With no facts to condemn the fuel pump or computer (which are the only items left that the fault code refers to), the mechanic feels there is not much else to do except replace the fuel pump and/or computer. But these items are not cheap and there is no guarantee that they will fix the problem. Please help. Thanks! --ny10 |
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I had a similar problem with a used 81 buick skylark. turn out to be something as simple as the vacuum hose being old and craked. Replace the old hoses and no more problem. Leo |
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| Leo, thanks for your suggestion. I'll have my mechanic check out the hoses. Because the car had the stalling probably not just late in life but also early, I wouldn't think a recently-cracked hose would be responsible, but perhaps there's a bizarre crack that's been there years and only acts up occasionally. I'll let you know. --ny10 | |
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We had the excaact same problem with our 323. It seemed to happen more when it was hot out I found. Anyways, I used to get so good at predicting when it would happend that I would just turn the ignition off while driving down the highway and then starting the car again. That usually resets what ever is causing the problem and you are good to go. Anyways, we took our car to a mechanic and he changed or cleaned something...which seemed to work for about a week but then it started up again. I decided I should change the PCV valve becuase it blocks up and supposedly can cuause that problem...and it seems to have worked. It's only like 5 or 10 bucks so I'd try it. You can get it at any auto parts store. It's a little black thing on the top of the engine with a 90 degree turn to it...one side is in the engine, the other side has a small hose attached to it. Actually you can take it off and try to clean it, you should be able to feel something moving around innside. Hope it helps, not sure if you already tried it. I agree, this is one of the best little cars you can buy. Way better than a honda civic of the same year...more power and quite nimble this car. |
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I just bought a 1994 Mazda 323 hatchback for CA$3800. The car has 147000km, which is about 91000 miles. I've heard that this is the most reliable car that Mazda ever built and that it is very easy on gas. Was this a good buy?
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