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Mazda 323

419 messages,  Last post on Nov 22, 2009 at 12:45 PM

You are in the Mazda 323 Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer

What is this discussion about? Mazda 323, Hatchback


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#2 of 419
323 fan by jcorbett
Dec 15, 2000 (7:36 pm)
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Yes, I also loved my 323, a 1986 model. It ran like a top, got terrific gas mileage and had incredible pep. Sadly a tree fell on my car this summer, otherwise I am sure I would have driven it for 100k more miles.
#3 of 419
by pine3
Jan 04, 2001 (2:52 pm)
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I have a 1990 323 that I bought 5 yrs ago. It has been the most reliable small car I've had. 263000 kms on it now and the only thing i've replaced is the alternator and exhaust. Bad on brakes, though and a few minor complaints. But the car just drives and drives and drives....
#4 of 419
Not a bad car by careener
Jan 22, 2001 (8:52 am)
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Positive experiences with the car (91 323 dx)
--good headroom/visibility
--confortable seats
--enough power for highway
--good stability for a small car
--excellent price
--Good standard features (60/40 rear seats etc.)
 
Negative points
-on its 3rd head gasket
-on its 4th driveshaft (have replaced both twice..only last 2 yrs each)
#5 of 419
price on this 323 by leomort
Jan 26, 2001 (9:28 am)
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hello, I seen this used 1990 Mazada 323 automatic not sure if it has A/C with 110,000 miles on it. asking price 4 grand! I think this is step. I think it's only worth $1200-1500. Perhaps start with an offer of $1,000. What's a fair price for a car of this age and mileage?
 
                Leo
#6 of 419
For 4 grand by 5spd
Jan 26, 2001 (2:57 pm)
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You can get a 1995 ! These cars cost nothing on the used car market, and they represent a very good value if you are looking for cheap but good transportation.
 
You are right, don't pay more than $1500 for a 1990. And get youself a 5 speed one if you could drive one, it is much more nimble than the automatic version.
#7 of 419
323 by leomort
Jan 29, 2001 (7:09 am)
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Hi 5spd,
 
The car is going to be used to teach my wife to drive. So we need something reliable. She'll probably only put 4-5,000 miles a year on the car. She wants an automatic. Thanks for the help. I'll see if I can get him down in price.
 
                 Leo
#8 of 419
my mazda by climbdude
Jan 29, 2001 (2:41 pm)
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hey dudes, i got this mazda 323 and its been
great except for one thing when its cold and wet
it doesn't start, it just cranks and cranks, but doesn't start, its a 1992 323 with 104K and a five speed, can anyone help me out? my spanish
teacher, who's a car enthusiast, and has owned around twenty mazda's, says its probably the distributor cap getting moisture in it, can anyone corroborate this? i'm also looking into mazda RX-7's, anyone know about em?
#9 of 419
climbdude by lngtonge18
Jan 30, 2001 (6:06 am)
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Sounds like that is exactly the problem. If the distributor cap cracks, it can allow either moisture to get in or sparks to come out. Both cause problems. If moisture gets in, it will cause the car to be difficult to start until the cap dries. If spark gets out, it will cause the engine to sputter. The cap only costs maybe $20 at your local part store and is very easy to replace. You should also replace the rotor at the same time as the cap. It is the small triangular shaped object that rotates around inside the cap. Anyway, replace the cap and your car should run as good as new again. As far as the RX-7, what years were you looking at? Each generation has their own unique problems, but overall they are fun cars to drive. I own an 84 RX-7, so I can try to answer some general questions about them.
#10 of 419
RX7 by climbdude
Jan 30, 2001 (1:45 pm)
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i'm looking at an 86 RX 7, its a second gen, got a new tranny and motor, looks great, runs good, been kept up really well, its got a high performance exhaust system, it makes it really loud,
#11 of 419
RX7 by lngtonge18
Jan 30, 2001 (6:15 pm)
Reply
If it has a completely rebuilt engine, than it may be a pretty good car. Avoid the turbo, as they put more stress on the rotary engine and are less reliable. My 84 has been very reliable over the past year, despite the fact I bought it for $200. All it has needed was a new starter, left front rotor, caliper and a set of pads, and a clutch slave cylinder. It always starts up first time and runs really good. However, you MUST be religious in changing the oil every 3000 miles max. Rotary engines actually burn oil by design so you must also get in the habit of checking the oil level at least once every 2 weeks if not more. I recommend using Catrol 20W-50 oil as that is what is recommended by numerous places. Rotary engines run hotter than a piston engine, so the thicker weight oil is better for it. DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL! It can cause major problems with the rotor seals and lead to an engine failure. I can't think of anything else to tell you. Was there any specific questions you had about it? Hope my advice helps.

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