Last post on Dec 04, 2013 at 2:14 PM
You are in the Toyota Celica
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Celica, Coupe, Hatchback
Feb 03, 2013 (12:45 am)
2002 GTS with 205K miles had P0171 CEL, engine too lean, wont pass smog test.
Mass Airflow Sensor looked dirty. Cleaned with carb cleaner, but did not help.
Swapped a MAS from another car, worked beautifully, cleared all codes, passed smog test.
OEM and Denso MAF retail about $220. Will buy a Chinese knock off in eBay for $20 to see how well it works and how long it lasts.
#1541 of 1560 Re: code P0171 [peterpan99]
Mar 17, 2013 (10:12 pm)
The $20 counterfeit MAF bought on eBay is not working.
The car runs rough, has no power for acceleration, and is doing P0171 SYSTEM TOO LEAN AGAIN.
Damn counterfeiters are making bad sensors with TOYOTA and DENSO part numbers on it.
I will forward the fake info to Toyota, Denso and Law Enforcement so they can deal with fakers...
#1542 of 1560 Re: code P0171 [peterpan99]
Mar 26, 2013 (9:43 pm)
The MAF sensor bought for $26 on eBay works fine in a Lexus that uses the same sensor.
It did not work in the Celica. The car had no starting acceleration. I got into the intersection when the car failed to move. I was nearly broadsided by incoming traffic. So What can I say?
Put the original MAF back and the Celica runs great again.
Put the $26 MAF sensor in the Lexus, the Lexus runs great. No problems, no check engine light...
Not sure what happened.
#1543 of 1560 Re: code P0171 [peterpan99]
May 02, 2013 (10:26 pm)
Carb cleaner fluid may have lubricating oil, which would screw up the MAF sensor.
MAF sensor should be spray cleaned only with CRC MAF cleaner or residue-free electrical contact cleaners.
#1544 of 1560 Halogen fog lamp replace [peterpan99]
Jun 16, 2013 (4:59 pm)
CELICA FOG LAMP, Brand Hella model H3, part number 8GH 002 090-131,
made in Germany, rated 12V 50W. Can be bought in AMAZON or eBay for about $2 a piece.
This procedure, If done correctly and with experience. should take only about 15 minutes from start to finish.
1 DO NOT TAKE OUT TOO MANY SCREWS! Only 2 x 10 mm hex head crews, at corner and front bumper, facing down.
2. Pry the plastic wheel liner back away from the bumper and stick arm inside cavity to find the fog lamp box.
3. Find the ROUND PLASTIC CAP on the lamp box CONCENTRIC with the LENS in front. CCW to open.
4. Release BULB LOCK SPRING CLIP WIRE, PRESS IN, DOWN and SWING OUT
5. Pull out the BULB and disconnect 1 wire with BLADE CONTACT terminal. BULB's flat metal base has 2 cut outs: HALF MOON TOP and RECTANGLE bottom. Bulb only fits in cavity this way.
6. DONT TOUCH HALOGEN BULB, hold BULB by the base, insert into cavity, TURN BULB AROUND until it's in the correct orientation and fits all the way in cavity.
7. Find the LOCKING SPRING CLIP, it goes over the BULB's base, SWING IN, PRESS HEAD DOWN and IN until LOCK with click.
7. Put BULB GREASE on BLADE TERMINAL, insert into female terminal until locked with a click.
8. Put ROUND PLASTIC CAP back on round hole, rotate around until it fits in cavity. Turn CW until locked in place.
9. Reassemble engine's bottom cover, wheel cover and bumper with 2 x10mm HEX HEADS.
#1545 of 1560 Yet another HTC problem- HELP
Aug 16, 2013 (5:59 pm)
I have had my G6 HTC convertible for 7 years. In those 7 years I have documented the trials and tribulations of my car in this very forum (just read my posts). The latest problem has to do with my top. The top on my convertible will not go all of the way up. The part where the top won't go up is where the trunk has to close to complete the process but it won't.
I have had the car to the only dealer who has worked on my car THREE times. All three times I was told there is nothing with my car and the top is fine. Well today I tried to enjoy my day off and I put my top down and up to make sure it worked... and it didn't.
So I went to the dealer and he put the top down and up 5 times and it worked perfectly... so I explained to him that the top would not work at my house in my driveway... My driveway is on a slight incline so I had him take the car to a hill and when he tried to put the top up it FAILED.
So now the dealer verified that the top will not close while parked on an incline... BUT he didn't want to keep the car to work on it. His suggestion was to close the top on the street and not on an incline.
I really don't like this because I would like my top repaired to complete working condition.
So here I am with a top that works on certain inclines and a dealer who doesn't want to try and repair it. The whole reason for me keeping this car as long as I have is for the hard top. If I can't use it there is no sense even keeping the car.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this or where to go to get it repaired?
Aug 17, 2013 (5:33 am)
What is an HTC? Is this a 2010 Scion?
#1547 of 1560 Replace Power door lock $6 Mabuchi motor
Aug 25, 2013 (6:10 pm)
Procedure to replace power door lock motor, just $6 Mabuchi motor,
not the whole door lock assembly (about $285 at stealers)
Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, about $6 in eBay. This motor is used in all Lexus and Toyota cars
if you hit the power door lock switch and the lock wont lock or only lock partially, most likely the mabuchi motor inside the assembly is worn, dirty or burned out. This motor can be taken out and replaced within 1 hour if you are familiar with the door lock assembly and know what you are doing. Byt he second time, you should be able to finish it within 30 minuted.
1. You can leave the lock assembly in the door. You dont have to remove these 3 screws unless you want better access to the motor housing
Just remove 1 small screw on the white nylon shroud covering the motor housing to lift it up. The nylon shroud is flexible and wont break or cracked.
2. Remove 2 screws that hold the motor housing to the bracket, then wiggle the housing to free its actuator off the end of the wire cable. You may have to hold the cable with a pair of pliers. Pull the motor housing out of the assembly. There are 2 other actuators that will just drop out.
3. Use a knife or sharp blade and flat-head screw driver, cut and pry open the glued motor housing along the long edges. Anything broken can be glued back.
4 Use flat-head screw driver, pry motor (and worm gear) out of housing.
5. Replace with new Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, sold for about $6 in eBay. This motor is used for all Lexus and Toyota cars, probably some Hondas .
Interchange Part Number: FC-280PT-22125
Other Part Number: KF243G-101
Motor body length is 30 mm, with shaft 15 mm long,
Total length is 45 mm from butt to end of shaft.
Shaft diameter is 2 mm.
Body height is 25 mm, depth 20 mm.
There is a collar at the end of the shaft. heat it up and yank off with plier.
Add grease to to the worm gear. Glue housing back with crazy glue or clear RTV.
Reverse the assembly.
Save yourself $285 parts plus $200 labor at the stealers.
#1548 of 1560 Replace Power door lock $6 Mabuchi
Aug 28, 2013 (4:36 pm)
It's easier to split apart the motor housing by heating up the edges with a hair dryer.
The heat will soften the adhesive and you can pry it apart without breaking any pieces.
#1549 of 1560 Electronic Door Latch & Cargo Cover Noise
Aug 28, 2013 (11:16 pm)
Confusing! Everyone has a different name for this part. My mechanic calls it a door latch, so I use that term so I can continue to talk to him. I had the driver's door latch replaced and my mechanic charged about $80 (cannot recall the exact price.) I did leave the dealer at some point when several items costing $3200 were about $1600 at a highly recommended local mechanic. This local mechanic is so honest and detail oriented, it was a blessing to get his recommendation as the Celica began truly aging. (96,000 miles on the 2000 GTS today.)
I should have had both left and right latches changed at the same time, as they have the same duty cycle, and wouldn't you know, a year later the passenger one is failing.
So now I am wondering when I take the car in, should I have the trunk latch proactively changed? Will it be the next to go bad? I will probably ask my mechanic's advice.
I am also looking to quiet the cargo cover. When the car hits bumps in the road, that cover makes a terrible noise as it bounces. Underneath the cover are two square inlets, and it appears they may have held, or are supposed to hold, perhaps a piece of foam or rubber that would soften the bounce. Have to fabricate something methinks, as googles of this item have failed to produce a part.