Last post on May 02, 2013 at 11:26 PM
You are in the Toyota Celica
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Celica, Coupe, Hatchback
#1511 of 1543 Re: 2003 Service Manual [zaken1]
May 08, 2009 (9:12 pm)
I bought a CD ROM in eBay for $5. It had troubleshooting procedures for the entire electronic system and all mechanical drawings.
Sorry file too large to email.
Also check www.ALLNEWCELICA.ORG
#1512 of 1543 Re: rsx overpriced [celicagt1]
May 08, 2009 (9:23 pm)
The Celica GTS is a more serious driver car than the RSX type S, even though the RSX has a bigger, more powerful engine etc...
The GTS engine, transmission, steering, braking, suspension and overall system dynamics are just pure high-performance. The RSX has no electronic auto trans, so you have to push the stick to shift. Kind of lame.
At least to me, the Celica's ergonomics is superior than the RSX. The Celica seats fit drivers better and are far more comfortable.
#1513 of 1543 2000 celica gts/ fuel type?
Apr 18, 2010 (7:04 pm)
do you really have to use high octane fuel or will regular work? what are the consequences?
#1514 of 1543 Re: 2000 celica gts/ fuel type? [gjenn]
Apr 21, 2010 (10:17 pm)
Toyota spec says must use 91 Octane fuel. The engine is a higher compression engine. Lower octane fuel would ignite early, causing knocking and reduce power.
Unclean burn also leaves residues in exhaust sensors, lighting up sensors' warnings. Typically the Catalytic converter sensor would warn of low cleaning efficiency.
High-octane fuel would cost may be 10% more, but you should get at least 10% higher mileage out of it. Also, Toyota engineers know what the car must run on. If it could run on cheaper fuel, they would already specify it in.
Every time I deviated from MFR recommendations, I got unknown problems later on.
Mar 13, 2011 (4:58 am)
You sound like you know a fair bit about these years of celicas. I own an 86' GT hatchback with the 2S-ELC engine, what can you tell me about this model. When I got the car last spring from a good friend($1000) he had just put in a crate engine(now has 5xxxkm), rebuilt tranny and he did a whole bunch of other stuff. It seems as if theres a draw on my battery even when the car is parked and not running. There are no lights staying on and no shorts that I can find, any ideas? its been a great car... reasonably quick and the 4-way independant suspension is great on curvy mountain roads. I love the car and would hate to sell it because I cant fix a simple problem. Any idea what these are worth in pretty good shape and less that 1/4 mill..km? I NEVER see them around. I know they are rare because the GT, ST161(chasis), 2S-ELC was only made in 1986 but just how rare are they?
#1516 of 1543 Re: 80s CELICAS [redneck_racer]
Mar 13, 2011 (9:35 am)
You can narrow down the area of the drain by connecting an ammeter in series with one of the battery cables, and removing fuses one by one, until the drain stops. Since the problem exists when the key is off; most circuits will not be energized under that condition; so there are only a small number of circuits that might cause the problem. Once you find the circuit; it will be necessary to isolate, inspect and separately test all the components that are protected by that fuse.
When doing current draw tests; it is important to bear in mind that the vehicle's computer is designed to draw a constant small current (less than 60 milliamps) at all times; to preserve the computer's volatile memory data. So you're always going to see at least that much of a draw. This computer draw will run the battery down in about 6 weeks to 3 months of storage; on a vehicle with no electrical problems. So it is just not like the good old days; when batteries held a charge much longer..
The brake lights, cigarette lighter, possibly the radio, the security system, the 4 way flashers, interior lights (including the glove box light) and the headlights are the most likely suspects. Also, any add on electrical accessories might be connected to be live when the key is off.
Another very common source of such drains is a shorted diode in the alternator. You can test for this while the ammeter is connected by disconnecting the heavy power cable to the alternator (being very careful to not let the metal teminal on the cable touch any metallic objects), and seeing whether that stops the drain. If it does; the alternator must be replaced. There is an epedemic of badly remanufactured alternators and starters on the market. I have become so fed up with having to remove and return newly purchased defective rebuilt alternators that I now only buy alternators and starters from NAPA parts stores. And I have none of those problems anymore.
#1517 of 1543 Re: 80s CELICAS [zaken1]
Mar 13, 2011 (2:21 pm)
I did not know that the comp. has a constant draw, is it possible that it could drain eough in less than 6 months? Ive heard that the connections in the starter are commonly burnt and dont make good connections, I took it appart and sure enough, burnt connectinons. Could the combination of the constant draw from the comp. and a poor connection in the starter be preventing the car from turning over. The car has aftermarket gages and it seems to need around 12.5V for it to turn over. My battery is new in sept. last year and is an energizer max with high cold crank amps. I will test my alternator, when I have the car running, it does provide a charge to my battery. Im quite sure that its not my accessories. Thanks for your help.
#1518 of 1543 Re: 80s CELICAS [redneck_racer]
Mar 13, 2011 (4:00 pm)
The draw from the computer is guaranteed to run the battery flat in 6 months. In fact; it will probably do it in 4 or 5 months.
Turn on the headlights; if the lights are dim or do not work; you'll need to have the battery charged. If the lights come on; try to start the car and see whether the lights dim or go out. If the lights dim or go out when trying the starter; the battery needs to be charged, or the battery cable clamps need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned. A tapered reamer type cable service tool is the best tool for this. And some almost invisible corrosion on battery cable clamps and posts will totally prevent the starter from running.
If the lights stay bright at a time when the starter does not work; there is a relay called a starter relay, which is usually the problem. Despits what you have heard from the rumor mill; Toyota starters are some of the most long lasting and reliable starters in the industry. Burn marks notwithstanding.
#1519 of 1543 Re: 80s CELICAS [zaken1]
Mar 14, 2011 (2:12 pm)
I already have done the headlight test... I learnt the trick a long time ago. The lights did dim, therefore, when I was trying to start it, it was drawing electricity into the starter relay(solenoid), its often mounted directly on the starter but ford has a fire wall mounted design with a movable pole shoe starting motor and some imports have permanent magnet starters... diesels have gear reduction starters to provide more torque. My car has the solenoid on starter design(commonly seen in chevy's). I took my starter appart and the solenoid works fine but the secondary system which provides power to the starting motor had burnt connections and the starting motor wouldn't work. I cleaned the secondary connections and bench tested the starter, it worked like new. Is there anything I can do to keep those connections from getting burnt? some kind of highly conductive flux or something? I wont replace the starter because of this, it will have the same problem either way and its like $40 for me to completely rebuild my starter myself. Why would they get burnt to start with? too much current?
#1520 of 1543 Re: 80s CELICAS [zaken1]
Mar 14, 2011 (8:10 pm)
How rare are the 1986 Toyota Celica GT Hatchbacks w/ the 2S-ELC, SOHC, 2.0L and the 4-speed overdrive automatic tranny?