Last post on Dec 04, 2013 at 2:14 PM
You are in the Toyota Celica
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Celica, Coupe, Hatchback
#1551 of 1560 Re: Mass Airflow Sensor code P0171 [peterpan99]
Aug 30, 2013 (3:31 pm)
Perhaps I should have remove the battery's ground to reset all values in the ECU, so it will recalibrate the new MAF sensor.
This sensor, if dirty or faulty, can cause a lot of performance problems, not to mention failing SMOG checks.
Make sure the intake air filter is properly seated and sealed off from dust. Spray clean the Platinum sensor wire with non-residue BRAKE CLEANERS or CONTACT CLEANER, NOT CARBURETOR/ FUEL INJECTOR CLEANERS WHICH has LUBRICANTS.
#1552 of 1560 OIL LEAK at Timing Chain Tensioner plate
Aug 30, 2013 (3:40 pm)
2002GTS 212K leaks about half quart every 15K miles. Not bad but I hate leaks.
The back side of the oil pan is all wet. So took the oil pan off and resealed with TOYOTA's FORM in PLACE GASKET which is a tube of black RTV.
Engine looked dry in the garage but after driving , still leaked same place. So suspected the RTV was not dispensed and sealed properly. Removed the oil pan and redid the gasket.
Oil pan's seal looked good and dry. But still leaked in same place. Damn. Washed the engine with degreaser and hosed down with high pressure hose. Found the leak on the back side of engine, passenger side, under the valve cover, right next to the belt tensioner strut. Damn.
The leak is at the Timing chain tensioner which is bolted onto the engine block with an oval plate and 2x 10 mm bolts. Took it out, clean mating surfaces of all oil with Acetone and regasket with Toy's black RTV. Leak is dead.
#1553 of 1560 Cargo shelf cover noise
Sep 08, 2013 (8:54 am)
So after many years of the cargo cover banging and making noise over every bump, I did the unthinkable: I actually looked at it.
Underneath are two square inlets, one on the left and one on the right. The inlets have metal clips and it looks like there was something secured in there at some point. I wish I knew where my shop manual is, it probably shows a part right there in black and white! In any case, I am guessing that there should be a piece of rubber or such that should be in those inlets to help cushion the shelf.
To solve this, I used pipe insulation. This is a black, semi-stiff foam used to insulate pipes around the house. Its shape is a cylinder. I cut off a piece the width of the inlets. Cut the circular piece open and straightened it out. I then cut two pieces, one for each inlet and stuffed it in there. Given the foam still has a curve from its memory, I had to force it straight and rest the shelf on it, after disconnecting the two ties to the hatch. If the foam maintains its shape I will reconnect the ties to the hatch. If it does not maintain its shape and keeps curling over, then perhaps I will spec a stiffer foam that is shaped perfectly. In any case, this cost nothing and took five minutes.
Peterpan is there any real risk that my mechanic may not have replaced the entire lock mechanism? The new one works great, and that is my main concern. You say I would not break anything, well, I break everything, so I leave this stuff to the experts.
#1554 of 1560 Re: Cargo shelf cover noise [guitarzan]
Sep 11, 2013 (5:25 pm)
The feltlike cargo cover swivels on 2 plastic pins that are inserted snugly into 2 plastic holders on the side wall. The holders are removable ans sometimes get lost. Sold for a few bucks in the dealer.
The rear side of the cover rests on 2 pieces of foam on the side wall.
If not inserted and secured properly, the cover can make annoying banging noise every time you run over a bump. I hate all those bumping noise.
#1555 of 1560 Re: Power door lock assembly [guitarzan]
Sep 11, 2013 (6:06 pm)
The whole power door lock mechanism is like $250 from the dealer and takes 2 to 3 days to order. If your mechanic fixed your door lock the same day, then he likely only replaced the little motor. Most repair shops know this fix and have motors ready.
For $80 its 1 hour labor with the motor. It's a fair deal.
For the $250 high price of the assembly, if you ordered it, he's supposed to show you the broken unit and how it failed, for you to keep, also the packaging of the new unit.
#1556 of 1560 Removing rear engine mount 17 mm cross bolt
Sep 11, 2013 (6:14 pm)
I drive my car very aggressively, so after 212K the engine mounts with rubber core are worn out. The engine vibrates a great deal when idled with transmission engaged.
It's embarrassing every time I carry female passengers. They would feel like their boobs were swinging uncontrollably and ready to fall off ...hehe.
So ordered both rear and front mounts in Amazon for $45. They claim to be made of high quality chinese rubber. Dealers' would cost about $180 for both.
I put the car on stands, took the driver-side tire off for access to the rear mount.
The rear side of the engine rides on a 17 mm cross bolt which goes through the rear mounts rubber core. It was very hard to turn. I used a half-inch ratchet wrench with a 30 inch long half in extension, cheap tool from China, to reach the bolt. I turned very hard, broke the rachet and extensions without being able to turn the bolt at all. repeat the same failure for the whole week. The bros had warned me that the bolt is hard to turn, but I did not expect it to be this hard.
The cheap steel extension tubes 30-inch long twisted so much under load that the torque was not delivered to the bolt.
I was desperate. I was gonna bring it into the shop, which quoted $300 labor plus parts. Dealer wanted $675 to replace both mounts.
Finally borrowed some professional Crafstman's tools, inserted the long extension tube on the bolt, rest the tube level on a hard pivot point like a car jack to keep it straight with the bolt's centerline, use a half-inch Craftsman wrench with a long extension, applied about 100 ft-lbs of torque on the extension. This time the bolt opened smoothly. Damn. This torque is about the same as opening the wheel lug.
The shops use compressed-air impact wrenches with up to 500- 600 ft-lb torque. So they can open this bolt quickly. With limited hand tools, the home mechanics just have to be more creative.
The bros can do this kind of job at home. I broke all those cheap steel tools from China without breaking anything in the car. So the car is safe.
If you have to get under the car, just make sure you raise the car and put the chassis frame on solid and level supports. Put concrete blocks, wood blocks or wheels under the chassis to make sure the car does not move or collapse.
By the way, I am a software engineer. But I usually come up with solutions for critical problems for the muscle-head mechanics in my neighborhood. So you can do it.
#1557 of 1560 Re: OIL LEAK at Timing Chain cover plate [peterpan99]
Nov 30, 2013 (8:40 am)
The timing chain cover plate is a large piece at the end of the engine block on passenger side.
It's right behind the pulleys and main serpentine belt, held onto the block with 14 bolts and 2 nuts.
Toyota recommends tightening all fasteners on the engine every 100K mile. This timing chain cover can leak oil, especially when the timing chain in cranking at high engine speed. Oil would be slung through the seal and spray out.
It's difficult to have access to these bolts. You have to remove the serpentine belt. Also need a long and straight box wrench to access the 2 bolts at the top.
When your engine leaks oil, it's prudent to check for the exact locations of the leaks carefully before fixing, or you may waste a lot of time with the wrong leaks.
1. Remove all engine plastic covers for access to the engine.
2. First tighten all bolts on engine: valve cover, timing chain tensioner plate, timing chain cover plate, oil sump, tighten oil filter...
3. Wipe clean all potential oil leaking joints and surfaces with engine cleaner or solvent.
4. Blow flour or baby powder on all potential leaking joints.
5. Run the car for a few days then check all joints to find the exact leaking spots and repair accordingly.
Chances are after tightening all bolts the leaks would have been fixed, you would find no more leaks and saved yourself a lot of unnecessary repairs.
Nov 30, 2013 (10:55 am)
Peterpan your input is awesome! I have a bad back and reasonable mechanic so I stick to tire rotations and oil changes, and leave the rest to the mechanic. I do solve a lot of little problems at work (IT also) and daily life around the house so we are definitely kindred spirits. But I especially enjoy your great descriptive stories of fixing problems on the Celica.
Isn't the timing gasket at risk of being burned or mishapen, and requiring replacement? I take it they are very hearty items?
#1559 of 1560 Re: Good stories [guitarzan]
Nov 30, 2013 (11:45 am)
Thanks for your kind word. You are definitely kindred spirit.
I guess I do like this little Celica GTS. It's reliable, high-performance, fun and cheap to drive, and it fits my wants and needs perfectly. I guess I like to drive as fast as I can.
Via friends, I have access to Corvettes, Benzes, Porches, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Ashton Martin Vanquish etc... But I still think the Toyota GTS is a wonderful car, mostly because it's quick and precise to control in speeding, braking, turning ... more so than other high-performance cars.
Regarding the timing chain cover plate, it has a rubber gasket. The bros in NEWCELICA.ORG had tried to replace that gasket but they had to remove the engine block to do it properly. Otherwise that gasket will leak again. That would be way too much work. My guess was that the leak could be fixed by tightening the 14 bolts and 2 nuts. It turned out to be correct.
By 100K miles, I found lots of loose bolts on the engine and transmission. It's worth tightening them all while checking for leaks and worn oil, fluid and coolant hoses etc...
For a guy with bad back you do a lot with oil change and tire rotation. I do the oil change because I can do it quicker at home that driving the car to the shop and sit around and wait. I also use Toyota filter and synthetic oil so I only have to change oil every 15K or when it looks black and smelled burned.
But I made a deal with a local tire shop nearby to do tire rotation, balancing and flat repairs for the same price as Costco. They can order and install any new tires I chose and do all services very quickly while I wait. They take good care of my tires for very low cost. Recommended.
#1560 of 1560 Better to buy Toyota's engine mounts
Dec 04, 2013 (2:14 pm)
I Installed an after-market set of front and rear engine mounts in a GTS 2002.
The car now has more vibration at idle than before with OEM mounts. Apparently the rubber material may be stiffer than factory's.
Therefore aftermarket engine mounts are not recommended. For $50 more, buy Toyota's engine mount for smooth idling.
Replacing the rear engine mount involves serious work and risks of damages or injuries. You need to raise the car about 6 inches for access to the fasters from underneath. There are risks of being pinned under the car if it's not supported properly.
Local shops here only want $90-100 plus part to replace the rear engine mount. I suggest the bros to leave it to the shops with proper equipments and tools to do with minimum risks.