Last post on Jul 17, 2000 at 1:37 AM
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#518 of 537 re:zx3- super report
Jul 16, 2000 (3:45 am)
zx3- thats great news you just reported.i will
second that experience minus the clutch pedal return spring at 4500 mi.ive done enough cranking
about that deal,lets see if the replacement hangs
in there.i had tried westleys spot-free dry and
was impressed with the results.i have not seen
rain-x wash yet.i know their glass treatment which i use is nothing short of amazing,an easy to apply
quality product that actually does as it claims.we
now have that re-form green gas here,(which i have
posted + complained about previously) .i swear that
the by-product of that fuel is wicked + nasty.it
gives me head pain and generally lousy feeling.its
now being required year round.locally,mtbe is showing up in fresh water supplies + wells.its a good thing that the z has more punch. all z owners
will need it.im sure you heard by now the latest craze......
about how 2 blondes will stalk and hunt down a z
owner.its wacky,its wild, its z-mania......help!
#519 of 537 2001 ZX3?
Jul 16, 2000 (5:42 am)
Has anyone heard anything about any changes when the '01's hit the dealers? I know that is a few months off, but I'm looking to buy soon and I want to know if waiting another few months might be worth it.
Jul 16, 2000 (12:53 pm)
too bad the wife said no, sometimes wives are mean like that....just kidding.
thanks to all of you posting positive things about the zx3. mine just hit 1200 miles, running great, what a car!
so how do I change the transmission oil?
#522 of 537 Redline website worth a visit!
Jul 16, 2000 (3:30 pm)
To all with questions about switching to synthetic gear lube in your 5-speed 'box, or your auto tranny, take some time to visit the Redline website and click on the detailed descriptions of each of their gearlubes and ATFs. These folks are well-espected, and know their stuff. You will learn quite a bit about the upside to synthetics, and you'll have a better idea of which product is right for you. Check your manual to see what Ford recommends, and Redline will have a corresponding synthetic to replace it (ex: Mercon ATF can be replaced by one of several products Redline makes).
#523 of 537 Drebe - clutch/shifter problem
Jul 16, 2000 (3:38 pm)
Drebe, your description of the car wanting to move forward while in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed is characteristic of a failing clutch master cylinder. If the clutch master won't hold pressure in the line, its just like you were slowly easing up on the pedal - the car will creep off the line, since the clutch is partially engaging. If making several quick strokes to the clutch pedal allows easier shifting (essentially, you are "pumping the system up"), I'd say you found your problem - failed seals in the clutch master cylinder. Keep in mind that the master cylinder creates pressure that acts on the slave cylinder, so it is possible for the problem to be at the slave... or both. Good luck - your dealer needs to do a system pressure test and make this right.
#524 of 537 RIM HAS A SCRATCH
Jul 16, 2000 (4:04 pm)
IS THERE ANY WAY TO REMOVE FINE SCRATCHES ON RIMS?
I ALSO HAVE NOISY BREAKS AND THE DEALERSHIP SAID IT IS BECAUSE THEY ARE MADE OF METAL AND NOT ASBESTOS. DO YOU BELIEVE THIS OR THINK THAT THEY TRYING TO FOOL A LADY.
#525 of 537 Choosing Proper Lubricants
Jul 16, 2000 (5:06 pm)
This is in your owners manual, Page 247. Use these specifications in choosing lubricants for you Focus ZX3s with 2.0L Zetec-E engine. You don't just throw in any lubricant and think it will work. The specifications should be marked on the lubricant container or available from the refiner in his product information sheets.
Engine Oil must meet Ford Specification WSS-M2C153-G with API Certification Mark. Also see page 181 in owners manual.
Oil Filter, Motorcraft FL2005 for 2.0L Zetec-E engine. Aftermarket filter must meet Ford material and design specifications of the FL2005 filter. You need to have the Motorcraft and the aftermarket filter catalog to determine this.
Auto Transaxle Fluid must be "MERCON V" and meet Ford Specs WSS-M2C202-B.
Manual Transaxle IB5 Fluid must be "Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid" and meet Ford Specification WSD-M2C200-C. *See Note 1 below.
Manual Transaxle MTX 75 must be "MERCON" and meet Ford Specifications "MERCON". *See Note 1 below.
Brake Fluid: Ford or equivalent, High performance DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. For service Ford recommends Super DOT 4 for manual transmissions. Each has different spec. See page 247.
Gasoline Octane: Ford recommends 87 Octane (Regular Unleaded) determined by the "(R+M)/2" Method and should be labled on the Gasoline Pump.
Vehicles certified to meet Calif. Emission Standard are designed to operate on "Calif reformulated gasoline". If not available it can be operated on non-Calif gasoline - BUT the performance of the emission control devised and systems may be adversely affected.
*Note 1: Your manual transaxle type should be listed on your Safety compliance label and if it isn't your dealer should be able to obtain it from your VIN number. I don't know which manual transaxle is used on the ZX3 because I got the auto transaxle. Maybe someone else can tell us which it is.
Hope this clears up what you can and can't do concerning aftermarket lubricants and fuels. As long as the product you choose meets ford specifications and is equivalent you should be okay in using it.
As far as fuel/gasoline goes, try to stay with a locally "branded" (Kwik-fill, Marathon, Sheetz, are a few on east coast) chain, or nationally "branded" (Mobil, Sun, Exxon, Shell). Stay with the newer stations with newer tanks. Try to purchase from the same station all the time.
Sorry for such a long post
Jul 16, 2000 (5:28 pm)
twatkins1, if your rim "scratches" are what's commonly referred to as "curb rash" (from pulling too close to the curb and scuffing your wheel and tire against the concrete) - there's little you can do short of having the wheel refinished. ZX3 alloy wheels are finished with silver paint and clearcoat, much like the finish on the body of the car. If you abrade the rim, you've scraped off the paint, and most likely gouged the soft aluminum alloy as well. My advice would be to find another (undamaged) wheel from a wrecking yard. Foci are starting to turn up in salvage yards, and these wheels should be available for the same or less than the typical cost of refinishing -- around $100 or less per wheel. Just make sure any used wheel you find is straight and true, and has no visible cosmetic flaws. Several folks have upgraded to 16 or 17 inch wheels, and may want to sell their stock wheels - do some checking around.
#527 of 537 re: silver bullet-drebe clutch problem
Jul 16, 2000 (6:29 pm)
silver - i think you just nailed it.with the additional info drebe provided it seems not to be
normal as one poster implied and disagreed.i was
hoping for drebes sake that nothing was wrong.it
never seemed right that all of a sudden,after driving the 5spd.that he would forget how to shift
in + out of gears.anytime there is doubt about what
is or isnt normal should be addressed immediately
with the dealer.once any component of the clutch goes,forget it about it,your stuck.