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1685 messages, Last post on Aug 01, 2008 at 7:47 PM
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Replying to: crystals05 (Aug 10, 2005 1:06 pm) if you have all the paper work for the car, what's been done at each annual service, that would help you out no end. Check your fan belt, if it's looking worn and perished it could well need replacing, the chances are the timing belt will need doing too if so, as the belts tend to wear out together. It's a good idea to change them every four years. Somtimes people forget about the engine coolant, should be changed every two years for best cooling efficency. if it looks a horrible shade of black rather than sky blue, then you could drain, flush and refill the cooling system with fresh coolent and water. just drain a drop off from the radiator plug into a plastic cup if u want a look. another thing that somtimes gets forgotten is the gear oil, should be done every two years if possible, can only help you out with the gear oil if it's a manual though, never changed auto transaxle fluid before... Engine oil....if that's not been changed for 10,000 miles or a year then it'll need doin, along with the filter. All this stuff should be in your owners manual, when to change what etc. anyhow, hope that's some help... |
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Replying to: kellisue (Jul 30, 2005 8:07 pm) I am a mechanic in the states. I will tell you what your problem is. The mechanics that you are taking it too can't be very sharp, as this is a basic problem that you are having. It is what is called an Idle Air Control Valve. It has a few other names like throttle bypass valve..etc. But what happens is that when you come to a stop light, this valve is supposed to regulate your idle. When you run down the road with the throttle open, it is 100% open--so when you let your foot off the gas the engine won't die. It then regulates the idle of the motor with the valve open at 45% say at a stoplight. What happens when these things go bad, is that the pintle that controls air flow through the valve gets gummed up and sticks. So when you go to stop at a stoplight, it hangs wide open like it should going down the road-----not at a stoplight. The motor then gets to much air and stalls out. The valve then goes back to it starting position when motor is started. I would not take your car back to the mechanic that told you it was the fuel pump. If they were doing any diagnostics at all, they would have simply looked at the fuel pressure at various times and over multiple starts to see if that was the culprit. Obviously not, since it didn't fix the problem. The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Because this valve simply controls the amount of air that goes around the throttle plate which regulates your idle. This is an easy fix, with most IACV's(for short), costing somewhere between 30-65$ US, and a half hour labor to put on. Sorry this post is so long, just wanted to explain it to you fully. I hope that this helps and I am 99% sure this is the problem. We have lots of problems with them in cars over here. Because our smog systems throw carbon through them and that is what gunks them up, or the IAC motor goes bad. You get a new motor on the new valve you would purchase. Please post again and tell me if this was it. I am sure it is. Oh, if the motor ever doesn't start, like it keeps on cranking over with no running. Depress the gas pedal 1/2 way down and hold it there and crank the motor over, it will start. But you really need to get a new valve. Hope this helps Kelli. Mike
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Replying to: bigdogg (Aug 14, 2005 4:59 pm) |
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My son; wife destroyed their engine. He is replacing it now but has no idea where all of the electric connectors go to on the engine compartment. Is the somewhere here on line where i might get a picture or an idea where all the connectors might go to. Any and all help is appreciated.
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Replying to: rotor123 (Aug 18, 2005 8:33 pm) http://tinyurl.com/9br9q |
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I need to get my timing belt replaced. I am running on about 64,300 miles on my 2000 Accent, and I should financially be able to replace it in about three weeks time, so about 700-1000 miles more, I'm hoping it can last. But I've been hearing a squeaking in mornings for a while now, maybe 2,000-3,000 miles, it's been happening. Usually it happens only early in the mornings, but this morning the squeaking lasted all the way to work, a 25 mile drive. The squeaking was a lot less by the time I got to work than it was when I first started it, but regardless it lasted all the way. Can anyone tell me if this is an indication of my timing belt wearing out more or what? Or is this unrelated to the timing belt?
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Replying to: kellisue (Jul 30, 2005 8:07 pm)
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Replying to: vthuppil (Aug 29, 2005 6:34 am)
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Replying to: vthuppil (Jul 14, 2005 1:45 pm) Jaime |
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Replying to: phillbill (Jul 15, 2005 1:50 am) Jaime
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