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Hatchbacks Hyundai Accent Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks
1685 messages, Last post on Aug 01, 2008 at 7:47 PM
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Replying to: lakeside (May 23, 2005 5:52 am) If this is no use, i'd go for the replacement alternator, i dont think it'll make a difference if it's old or new when you think about what it is, it's just a big spinning magnet that cuts through three coils of wire to produce a current. As long as the unit works, a new one should cause no more strain on the engine than an older one. If you're fiting it yourself, which you may as well, i replaced one on an escort within 45min. (luckily there were no extra pullys for power steering, air con etc, was nice and simple like on my 1999 accent  , i know someone who works for Subaru, it's a whole different story with modern performance cars, takes ages, the fan belt snakes half way round the engine bay via various pullys lol) You just gotta make sure the belt is at the right tension, which i can't remember off the top of my head, but it'll be in your car manual, or a hyundai accent haynes manual. Too loose and it'll slip, sounding like a squeeling cat, too tight and it may cause some strain....hope that answers yr question? |
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Does any one have info. on miles per gallon on the new 06 ACCENT? Should be improved with the new CVT engine.
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For lakeside who's alternator's packed in on his 2000 Accent... If you don’t fancy spending up to £250 (if you go to your dealer that’s probably what they’ll charge, however there are places that will sell some makes of alternator off for just over £20 if you know where to go) on a new alternator you could do some fault finding… Remove the alternator by loosening the long bolt that you see as you look down on top of it, until the belt is slack. Unplug the leads coming off the alternator, unscrew the remaining bolts holding it on, and the alternator should come off. Now get a marker pen, and draw a line down the side of the alternator, this will allow you to line the two halves of the alternator up the right way round when putting it back together. Because some alternators are universal, and can be put back together two ways, so that they can fit on an engine where it fits on the front, or on the back. Remove the regulator, this is a small, almost rectangular, about one inch by two inches big device, it regulates voltage at 14.5V. Just undo the small bolts holding it on, unplug the lead, and slide it out, you should see two brushes: rectangular rods of copper. Now, (a) check they’re both there and are the same length (b) make sure they’re in good condition (c) make sure you can push them in easily and that they repel back out fast. It may just be this that needs replacing. Regulator’s ok…then dig deeper…there should be three large screws holding the top half of the alternator on (the half that doesn’t connect to the fan belt), they stretch the length of the alternator. Take the nuts off these, and the nut that holds the wire down that’s connected to the rectifier, a device which turns the AC current into DC, inside the alternator. This should now pull off to reveal the Stator (lots of colourful windings of copper wire, green on my Accent), the rectifier, which looks like two or three layers of plastic with many electrical components welded together on it with three copper wires coming out of it at the base, and the rotor, more copper windings which act as an electromagnet. The magnetic force gets amplified by those teeth like steel structures surrounding the rotor. Now check the actual bearing pack on the cover you’ve removed, on most alternators, if this needs replacing you can get a load of grease, put it in where the bearings are, get a chunky rod of metal that's a flush fits, get a hammer and hit the rod of metal down, the pressure build up pops the bearing pack out. Now look at the two rings which the brushes brush against on the rotor. They should be smooth and perfectly circular. If not, this can usually be pulled off and replaced. If there is lots of scorching / burning on the rings, it is showing that the brushes are bust, they’re not moving in and out fast enough, causing sparks which leads up to build ups of impurities on the brushes and rings. Don’t just give it a polish and put it back together like they might do down your local garage which will give you only a few 1000 more miles of happy motoring, replace the brush unit and the copper rings (slip rings) if they're bably damaged, the brush pack should separate from the regulator, depending on make. Otherwise the whole regulator needs to be replaced. You won’t get these parts from your local auto store, you’ll need to go to a specialist. Well hopefully this will have sorted your alternator out, these are the easy to diagnose faults, and these little parts, like a bearing pack are only like £5, rather than a few hundred for a new alternator. However, this is just the tip of the ice burg when testing alternators. I can go into how you can test individual diodes in the rectifier pack, test for voltage leakage from the stator windings and the rotor, continuity in all the wires & windings, but this involves unsoldering parts and getting into a bit of a mess if it’s your first time at anything like this, especially when soldering near diodes, they don’t like heat! Just ask and I’ll tell you the tricks of the trade though. Putting it back together, do the exact reverse of taking it apart, remembering to align up the two halves, and making sure you slide the regulator in last, after the cover's been bolted back on, or you’ll snap you’re bushes off if you screw it back onto the cover before putting the two halves back together. Put it back on the car in the same way it came off, and using the big long bolt, tighten the belt up to the correct tightness….oh and re connect the wires going to the alternator…always helpful If you’re thinking of taking it off in the first place and looking for the fault, then you should really know how to test the individual electrical components, which I will happily dive into. Even though it takes a lot of explaining, the tests are all very simple to do and can be done within half hour. However if you’re planning on spending £70 or so getting your alternator serviced by specialist, or putting a new one in then I may as well shut up here. Word of warning though, I’ve never taken off and replaced the alternator on my Accent, only done it on a ford escort while studying vehicle electronics at college, and I’ve only ever stripped down an alternator from a Mercedes, so I can only guarantee that what I’ve said in this message is correct for those makes and models, the procedure may be slightly different for Accents, but it should be pretty much the same. |
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Replying to: geerage (May 22, 2005 9:02 pm) Can’t really think of any other components in the brake light / side light system that could be faulty, because the actual brake light switch must be working if your middle brake light still comes on, only thing left are the actual wires and connections...unless the more modern Accent is all posh with multi plex wires...gets kinda tricky then  If you’re not planning on spending a fortune at a garage getting someone to tell you there’s a loose wire, check it out for yourself. If you haven’t got a multimeter, I would advise you to get one, they’re only about £15 second hand. Start off at the bulb, check the filaments are ok. Now check the connections, they look nice and clean yeah, nothing in the plug looks bent, or snapped off, or corroded? If it all looks good, stick the negative terminal of the mulitmeter to earth, any part of the car body where there’s bare metal, dig it in and scrape around a bit to get a clean connection to earth. Put the positive lead on the feed to the bulb...Making sure the side light switch is on, and the brake pedal is depressed to activate the circuit. You may want to borrow the Hyundai Accent Haynes manual from the library so that you know what colour wire’s are the brake and side light feeds, under the wiring diagram section of the book. If there’s no current reaching the block that connects to the light cluster, then go further back. This is where knowing what colour wire you’re after is useful. Now you simply follow the wire back to the battery, checking for current reaching each component in the circuit, eg. Fuse or relay or switch. You will soon find where there’s a loose wire or a bad connection. Hhhmm…..if only it was that simple, on my 1999 accent all the wires to the back of my car are hidden behind the trim. When wanting to make a neat job of the wiring to my new rear speakers I had to make a right mess of the inside of my car, removing trim panels etc. If I’ve not explained summit clearly or u wanna no summit else to do with the light circuit on your accent, let me know n ill try ma best to help you, and anyone else with a similar problem out.
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Replying to: paul02 (May 22, 2005 6:48 pm) I know on my dads old Xsara, about one inch of the head unit was hidden behind trim, and you wouldn't be able to remove the old unit without taking the dash board off i don't think. But no, i think all sterio's are the same size, weather they're radios, tape or CD players. Just gotta play around with the trim. |
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Replying to: phillbill (May 24, 2005 12:20 am)
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Replying to: geerage (May 26, 2005 4:19 pm) Dont know if you've used these voltmeters before, if not heres some guidence. Voltage is the electrical pressure in a circuit, (a battery produces a voltage in the same way that water has the potential to flow down a pipe cuz of gravity if it's connected to a resevoir up in the air) before starting voltage tests, check the battery Voltage, click your multimeter onto voltmeter mode (never put an ammeter accross a battery, or accross a component in a circuit, always put them in seris with the circuit, otherwise you'll frazzle your multimeter & possible damage the circuit) and put the black wire on negative terminal and red one on possitive, for a fully charged battery you should get between 12.6 and 13.2 volts.....not 12V, it is flat if it has gone down to 12V, many people think 12V is fully charged....WRONG! lets say you got a battery voltage of 12.9V, in a working circuit, the voltmeter will read 12.9V in every part of the circuit up untill the component (bulb in this case), where it will drop down to 0V while the circuit is turned on....if it is the only component in the circuit, which it will most likley be in a brake / side light circuit, so may as well keep this simple. If the voltage drops before the component, for example if the voltmeter read 12.1 V when you got the red lead just after a part in the circuit where there are two wires joined together, and the black wire on an earth, then it would suggest that join is faulty and needs looking at. When connecting the black to earth, make sure it is well into the metal, any paint or dirt or grease will act as an insulator.
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Replying to: phillbill (May 26, 2005 5:18 pm)
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Replying to: 100356syl (May 28, 2005 10:35 am) Then get under your car and check for leaks, the oil filter may be loose, so if it's dripping from your oil filter tighten it up. Or is it's not been changed for more than a year, change you're filter, the rubber gasket may be perished that seals it flush to you're engine. I managed to change my oil filter without having to drain the oil, but have a large pan ready for any oil that may drain out with removal of the filter.....if it needs changing. Or it may be the sump nut that's loose and needs tightening, the nut that you remove when draining the oil. Could be you're rings that are worn out, letting more oil than there should be to leak into the engine and get burnt. Is there blue smoke coming out of your exhaust? Oil gets burnt in the the engine naturally, every time youre engine turns over some oil gets pumped in to lubricate the pistons so they can move up and down easily, there's always some oil left in the engine chambers, hence some oil will get burnt naturally in a 'healthy' engine. Upto one litre every 1,500 miles is ok, but saying that my car gets through nothing like that, about 3/4 litre a year. Hope that's some help! |
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Replying to: benricks (May 23, 2005 6:27 am) The pictures of the new Accent look pretty sweet for an entry level vehicle. I am also not aware of another sub-compact with 6 standard airbags. They say the price will remain close to the same but I figure it will go up just a bit. Now some of you may go up in arms over a price increase but why wouldn't you wanna pay just a little bit more for a much improved entry level vehicle. Hyundai is on the right track, faster than most really. Are you gonna catch the train? |
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