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Hatchbacks Hyundai Accent Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks
1685 messages, Last post on Aug 01, 2008 at 7:47 PM
You are in the Hyundai Accent Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: navygz19 (May 09, 2005 12:35 pm) But i no what you mean, the new Accents are about as streemlined as boxes on wheels lol Which is why i prefere the shape of my 1999 accent to the new'ens....much smoother 
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Yeah it's not the best is it. when i got my suspension replaced with a sports package i looked under the car to look at my bright yellow springs to find one was upside down  lol. But the garage sorted it out for me no porb's. Speakin of brakes, im sure im gonna have to replace my pads soon, they've not bin done since the car was new, which is 59,000 miles (but theres still over 1/4 inch of meat left on em, and the rotor's are in pukka condition!). Any tips for changing Accent pads? Or is it litteraly as simple as unclipping the old pads, packing sum grease in, and clipping the new'ens back in.... Out of everything ive done, ive never done anything to do with the brakes before, so i just need a lil guidence of the best screws to undo basicly lol |
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Step 1: Jack up car (duh) and take wheels off. For me, this took a couple trips to Autozone because the A--HOLES at Monro put the wrong sized bolt on the stud for the lugnut they had lost (hence my torque wrench was and still is useless... 13/16" lugs are hard to find). Step 2: Undo top and bottom caliped bolts via socket wrench. Hit (lightly) the bolts with a hammer first to make them come off easier (before I did this, I was about to pop some veins). Step 3: With these off, shimmy the caliper off the wheelbase/rotor assembly. There are two boltish looking things on the caliper assembly that run from side to side, but only one of them is an actual turning bolt. Undo that bolt and the caliper should be able to pivot on one side, so that you can twist one side wherever you please. Step 4: After taking pressure off of the clips that hold the pads in there, knock them out of place with hammer (or what have you). There are small metal plates that should come off with the pads. Take these off the old pads and transfer them to the new ones before installing them. Step 5: The C-clamp crap. I had nightmares about C-clamps the night before I changed my pads, but it's actually the simplest step. Insert the end of a C-clamp into the piston cup and with the holding end on the back of the piston, push the end of the cup flush with the edge of the calliper assembly. Take the C-clamp out. Step 5: Put new greased pads in (much like puzzle peices) and put caliper back to its caliper shape. Put the caliper back on the wheelbase structure. Before making things real tight, I made sure the thing still spun without interference by spinning the axle. Step 6: With car still on stands, I made sure the brakes worked by dumping the car in drive and pumping the brakes to watch the tires come to halt. I did this a few times. I don't know how you'd pull this off having a manual and all (if you can do the clutch and gas with your hands while down on your knees looking under the door at the wheels, you're my hero). Step 6.5: Get car off stands, wash hands, and drive around. Step 7: Drive around. Really fast. The first set took me an hour, the second took me twenty minutes. You can tap the rust off the rotors with hammer taps. It doesn't matter, but I'm a neatfreak and I don't want to blow it if the next time I'm on a date, the girl says "show me your rotors." I got the $18 Duralast Pads. They work fine... I just tested it with a 75-10 'oh-crap-stop' on my street (a 30). They're good. So... Tools: socket wrench, hammer, C-clamp. Time: now?' factor: Not too high. My parents, despite their laity in the automotive field, understood my explanation. Sorry 'bout the rambling. Hope this serves you well.
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Greetings, I have a 99 accent, standard transmission. I have had all the servies done, and now the vehicle has about 105k miles. THis week, I experienced various degrees of spark knock under acceleration and that combined with a lack of power. I start te car, and during the first few miles, no problem. Then I begin to note the knocking, under acceleration only, and an intermittant but frequent hesitation at a constant speed of 60 to 65 mph. I replaced the plug wires, one of them was nearly burnt through (originals) and the problem resolved itself for about 30 miles. My son-in-law suggested replacing the fuel filter next. Any thoughts from this group? Thanks in advance!
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Replying to: accentpaul (May 14, 2005 11:56 pm) When Jacking the car up, would you advise putting the jack under the k-member (big long thick metal thing that the engine's bolted to, which stops it droppin on the floor), gettin the whole of the front of the car up off the ground & gettin both jack stands on the go to support it (at the pionts on the side of the car where the jack normally goes)...or just do it one side at a time.....i do have a hydraullic jack, but its only small, about the same size as a can of pop.....it's not one of them nice big powerfull ones like at garages  I no...v.simple question for people who do it all the time....but i deal mainly with the electrical side of things, so never really have to jack the car up. |
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Replying to: davidinohio (May 15, 2005 6:16 am) To resolve this knocking sound, modern cars have a 'knock' sensor....so when it hears the knock (pre-ignition / pinking) , the fuel mixture is automaticlly reduced for a tiny bit untill the engine stops knocking, then it goes back to normal...clever ehh... But this cutting back on the fuel would be the reason for the lack of performance. If one injector is playing up, the other three injectors have to suffer too, because fuel supply is reduced to all four, not just the bad one If you think it may be an injector playing up, you could maybe invest in an Oscilloscope for about £10, from most army stores. With this piece of kit, you can probe into the wires going to each injector and look at the electrical supply. If one is playing up, then the electrical current will look different to the other three. But still, all four injectors may be fine, it may be somthing else that's past its sell by date...its hard to home in on the problem when the car's not in front of you lol
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Replying to: phillbill (May 15, 2005 11:03 am) My son-in-law suggested that the fuel filter might a problem too. Could it be the"knock sensor" that's out of whack? I forgot to mention, that sometimes the idle races to about 2000 rpm, then drifts back to normal. The cable isn't sticking, but I wonder if the two conditions are related.
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Replying to: davidinohio (May 15, 2005 2:59 pm) I doubt the knock sensor will have gone wrong, all it does is litterally pick up the sound that the engine makes when it pinks, sends the info back to the computer in your car, which then tells your injectors to deliver less fuel. |
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Replying to: phillbill (May 15, 2005 3:52 pm) So what you could do is buy a little bottle of injector cleaner, which you pour in your fuel tank when full, and it cleans while you drive. Did it on mine, didnt get any better performance because my car's tickin over ok as it is, but my miles per gallon went up
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