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Chevrolet/Geo Metro

1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Good for you Danger Dude! As for I, well I spent my day yesterday sunday taking the train to Oshawa where the elderly owner of a pristine Geo Metro hatchback 94 with 40 000 miles on was waiting for me. Not greedy at all this gentleman had put it on ebay at a low buy it now price. It was on the site a mere hours and he was bombarded by 42 emails. I had to act fast and did. I am not disappointed one bit, no rust, everything dead stock! I will do the regular: cap, spark plugs, wire change AND change the brake fluid. Details. I drove it back a little further north than Montreal. It was purring at 110 km an hour the whole trip. The finest part is that Mastercard Citibank (Driver's Edge) is paying for it in totality, just like they did for Vanilla Latte, my convertible. You see they give you 2% on everything that you buy, up to $5000, towards the purchase of a car, new or used, from any country. I am not ashamed to put EVERYTHING on my card, it pays. With but 61 000Km on the odo, that stick shift is nice and stiff, in fact I doubt that this gentleman (who won an Oscar by the way) ever used 5th gear. As he changed the muffler recently, this means that the household used it for short convenience store trips. It was a third car....I'll put Vanilla's 13 inchers to replace those nervous 12 inch tires and look for a sway bar. Toodle dee doo. |
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Just wondering if anyone could post the clutch disc thickness specs, new and/or worn out, from the service manual. I have a 91 metro, but I think it is the same for 88 to 98 metros. I am trying to decide whether to wait a week for the new clutch plate to get here or reuse one of the old ones. My engine blew up and the engine from the junk yard came with a clutch disc. That disc is almost the same thickness as my disc. I wasnt having any clutch problems. my current thickness is 7mm.
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Replying to: keldarx1 (Oct 04, 2006 2:26 pm) |
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Chiltons says that I need to jumper pin D & E on the 6 pin diagnostic connector on my 97 3 cyl. Metro To time the motor but they give no clue as to which pins are D & E . Does any one know which of these pins are D & E? pin 1 pin 2 pin 3 pin 4 pin 5 pin 6 pin 1 purple, pin 2 purple/green, pin 3 black, pin 4 no wire, pin 5 blue/white, pin 6 no wire. Does any one have a good source for oxygen sensors were one does not have to mortgage the home stead To buy one? Dan |
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Replying to: keldarx1 (Oct 04, 2006 2:26 pm) only registered car so I need it working. I ordered the manual and clutch plate from partsamerica.com and its taking forever for them to get here. Eta is like 11 oct... I finally got the engine all back in there and the starter wont work for some reason. There was only one bolt on connection to the starter as I recall. Seems like there should be a few connections there but I couldnt find any thing else to hook up to it. Any info on timing it would be good too. This engine didnt have the head off so I think it might not need to be timed. |
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there is a 1/4" spade terminal on the starter that has to be connected to the wire that operates the solenoid
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Replying to: supplee (Oct 05, 2006 6:51 pm) Then i had no spark, i guess the dist from the new engine(from a 95) doesnt work the same as the my old one. i popped the old one on and got a spark. Always something. I dont get any hits so I guess its prob just a timing issue at this point. Unless I got a crap engine :0 I might test the compression tomorrow along with trying to time it. As for timing, seems like there is a setting for the injection pump and the distributor. I do have a 30 day return guarantee on this junkyard engine, not that i want to take it back out.
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Replying to: keldarx1 (Oct 05, 2006 9:39 pm) Looks like the problem is with the fuel. I dumped some gas down its gullet and it fired pretty good. Trying to look underneath for stuff,I saw a leak coming from the rear of the vehicle. I then had to pull the gas tank out to get to the leaking lines. Also, it appears the fuel filter is ancient and may have been clogged. One more ride to town and I might have it going
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Replying to: keldarx1 (Oct 06, 2006 3:29 pm) I replaced the fuel lines by dropping the tank and now the pump doesnt come on. I tried swapping in the inj relay to the fuel pump relay so i dont think its the relay. unless both relays went bad. It seems to have voltage at the relay so i dont think its the computer. I think I have to drop the fuel tank again to directly apply voltage to the fuel pump. I hooked up a inline fuel pump I had lying around and it didnt get the car to start. Prob doesnt generate enough pressure, but It did bring the fuel to the front of the vehicle though. I thought for sure i would be driving by nowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww |
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It seems it may be a computer problem. I wired the fuel pump up directly so that functions. Still no start though, no power to the injector. I noticed the check engine light isnt coming on when you turn on the ignition. So I am thinking the computer is not working...
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