Last post on Aug 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
Dec 06, 2005 (10:18 pm)
Yo guys..and gals...so yeah i just bought a 1989 geo metro hatchback LSi and was wondering if anybody knew the largest size of rims/tires that i could put on my metro before having to install a whole new suspension system. Also, if anyone out there knew where i could get a stereo mounting kit for my car, id greatly appreciate it...WalMart has a kit for 1995 and up metros, does anyone know if that would fit??
#773 of 1864 Re: Wheel Size... [spiffymetro]
Dec 06, 2005 (10:45 pm)
I don't know about max wheel/tire size - I'm using Michelin 175/70 R13's & they work fine with the stock suspension. I could no longer get the stock /65 R13 profile tires that originally came on my '92 Metro LSI convertible. I would think that 175 width & perhaps 14" or 15" rims with a smaller profile (eg, /45 or /55) would also work so long as the outer diameter of the tire is no greater than my 175 tires. I never have problems with tires rubbing on the frame, fenders, etc. There's more than enough clearance. When my Pirelli tires wore out, I wanted to stay with my 13" rims because mine were already cast aluminum ones. I had replaced the original equipment rims when I bent one of them in a chuck hole and didn't want to buy another set.
Per radio installation kits, try Crutchfield. I'm about to order a Sony CDX-GT200, and it comes with a free wiring harness, a free mounting kit specifically for my Geo, & free shipping (Crutchfield's web address: http://www.crutchfield.com).
To me, that's a better deal than the current "free" installation at Circuit City or Best Buy, locally, where I'd have to pay around $50 for an installation kit & wiring harness from them (per a phone call I made to them).
Whether Crutchfield's sells the mounting kits separately or not I don't know.
#774 of 1864 Re: metro a/t shift problem [geno412]
Dec 11, 2005 (5:37 pm)
Finally got a service manual the Metro. I made a couple of test lights for the shift solenoids. Lo and behold, when it did not shift there was no power to solenoids. I replaced the a/t controller (small box on right side of steering column above drivers right knee) and it works ok now. Also used a hair drier to heat the defective controller and when it was warm it would work.
#775 of 1864 97 geo service engine soon light
Dec 13, 2005 (3:52 pm)
ok, i got a 97 geo metro from a nice little old lady who babied the car, this is my first winter with it and im having problems with the service engine soon light coming on.
the oil was just changed, the timing, airfilters and plugs were all done 6k ago, i cant see any reason why this light should be going on.
ive noticed that the engine runs poorly when i just start it, and it hasnt warmed up completly, the engine runs and then cuts out for half a second and then comes back. it does this repeatedly under no particular pattern until the car warms up and then stops doing it
can anyone tell me what my service engine soon light is hooked into so i can start narrowing things down as to what is wrong with this car?
#776 of 1864 Re: 97 geo service engine soon light [badcarzz]
Dec 13, 2005 (9:58 pm)
I think you're best bet is to take the car to a reputable service shop & have them run an analysis. Many things can cause the check engine light to come on.
The one time this happened to me in my '92 Metro the speed sensor in the speedometer was faulty -- not something I'd normally think to check.
I'm guessing, though, that some sensor (oxygen, etc) may be bad - at least until the car warms up.
Dec 15, 2005 (3:47 pm)
So yeah i just bought my '89 metro about a month ago, and it has hardly been run, only about 106,000 miles on it. I have gotten many emission tests done the last few weeks and it gets worse every time! I checked with the previous owner, and they showed me reciepts of the catylitic converter AND direct fit muffler were installed in 1994, with 94,000 miles on it. I have even givin it a full tune up (spark plugs, wires, distributer and cap, air filter, oil filter, oil change, radiator fluid) and even put in a bottle of that stuff thats SUPPOSED to lower emission levels, but it STILL fails worse!! I am running out of options and come sunday, will be unable to drive it for the rest of the year, since i need to pass to get tags, and my temp tags expire saturday, is there ANYTHING i can do to fix this?? (maybe a HUGE muffler...hahaha SWEET)
#778 of 1864 Re: emissions... [spiffymetro]
Dec 15, 2005 (7:17 pm)
Sorry - no idea what to do. We don't have emissions testing in TX, so I don't have to worry about that.
Again, though, have you had a mechanic connect his diagnostic unit to the car's plug? I think in your earlier posting you said the check engine light had come on. The computer could have recorded what is wrong - and what needs to be replaced (very possibly a sensor of some kind). If you don't like your local Chevy dealers, try a competent independent garage (look for ASE certification). You could also take it to a Suzuki dealer, since, in those days, the Metro was really built by Suzuki.
#779 of 1864 Re: transaxle - 80/90 gear oil. mineral, semi syn, or syn [escapingoth]
Dec 15, 2005 (8:51 pm)
did you ever figure out the down-shifting issue? My 1991 does the exact same.
#780 of 1864 95 geo metro won't go
Dec 24, 2005 (12:28 am)
I have a manual transmission metro. It turns on, engine runs. I can rev the engine. I can put the car into gear. But, when I put it into gear, nothing happens, the car just runs. I can't hear any unusual noises coming from anywhere. What is going on? Is my transmission shot, did my drive shaft come undone? I appreciate any useful replies.
#781 of 1864 Re: 95 geo metro won't go [timmo2]
Dec 24, 2005 (2:53 am)
Umm, there really isn't a drive shaft per se in the Metro, since it is front wheel drive. The transmission is really a transaxle - the transmission & differential all in one case. The output goes from the transaxle through constant velocity joints to both of the front wheels.
Do check the constant velocity joints - jack up one front wheel, and, once it is off the ground, gently try to rotate it. See if the shaft which should be attached to it also rotates. Check both sides of the car. If the shafts on both sides rotate, then proceed to the next paragraph.
If you can feel the transmission actually go into gear when you move the shift lever, I would suspect that the clutch is shot.
In a sense you can sort of check the transaxle. First, shut off the engine. Then put the car in 1st gear, and push the car (by hand). Do NOT depress the clutch. If you can't push the car by hand with the clutch up, try it with the clutch down. If you still can't push the car, you probably have a transaxle problem.
If you can push the car with the clutch up, have someone shift from first to fifth (without using the clutch) while you push the car. Now, while pushing the car VERY SLOWLY, have the other person gently try to shift into reverse. If you get resistance, or hear gear chattering, your transaxle is probably fine, but the clutch is shot.
This could be the clutch facing, or the clutch spring. Whichever it is, replace both when you have it fixed, since much of the cost will be separating the engine & transaxle and then putting them back together. Replace both at the same time, as well as the throwout bearing.
I hope this helps. Be really careful while trying to shift into reverse while the car is rolling - you don't want to force anything, or you might damage the transaxle. All you want to do is see if the internal transaxle parts are rotating - if they are, the transaxle is probably OK.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out.