Ask the Car People.SM


Chevrolet/Geo Metro

1864 messages,  Last post on Aug 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum.

What is this discussion about? Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback

Messages Page 75 of 187

#738 of 1864 Re: 96 Geo ?Large hard steel coolant line leaking [gobuggo] by amoberg

Oct 01, 2005 (10:30 pm)

Replying to: gobuggo (Sep 29, 2005 1:13 pm)
Not to worry!! I thought I killed mine when I did an engine swap on my 91. All you have to do is take off that radiator line, take the one bolt that brackets it onto the engine, then pull it out. It is only held into the water pump with an o-ring. Also, check for rust on the front flange of it, and if it is damaged, you can get one off any Geo Metro 3 cyl. that you find in the wrecking yard. Model years 1995 and newer. Let me know if you get it!

#739 of 1864 Re: transaxle - 80/90 gear oil. mineral, semi syn, or syn [escapingoth] by amoberg

Oct 01, 2005 (10:34 pm)

Replying to: escapingoth (Sep 29, 2005 7:41 pm)
Just so you know, the fluid for a manual trransmission for the Geo is actually a synthetic fluid, with a GM specification number made for these transmissions. The one way around using the GM spec fluid is getting a hold of a Red Line Oil distributor and getting Red Line MTL (Manual Transmission Lubricant) from them. It meets the specs from GM as the replacement fluid. The shop I work in carries it here in So Cal. Give it a shot! If that does not do it, it may be the syncro in the trans.

#740 of 1864 Swift GT by muffin_man

Oct 02, 2005 (11:10 am)

Sorry to bust in on this forum, but on friday I bought a 1990 Suzuki Swift GT. I guess that makes us cousins now

#741 of 1864 '99 Chev Metrol - How do I change the light switch? by leezlelee

Oct 06, 2005 (5:39 pm)

We bought a '99 Chev Metro in the summer. A few days ago the dash lights and all the outside marker lights stopped working. My husband believes he need to replace the light switch to rectify the problem. The headlights still work.
 
Can anyone provide step-by-step instructions on how to do this? Apparently we can get the part for about $20, so of course would want to install ourselves.
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Lianne

#742 of 1864 Rough Idle by whitetop

Oct 16, 2005 (6:27 pm)

I have a '93 Metro convertible with the 1.0 engine. It's always had a rough idle when below 1000 RPM, even with new plugs, rotor, wires, distributor cap, and timing check/set. I keep the idle speed set higher than recommended and it seems to smooth it out, but wonder if anyone has had a similar problems.
 
It also seems to improve when I run injector cleaner through the gas tank, but the fix is only temporary.
 
Any ideas would be appreciated.

#743 of 1864 my metro died.... by metromom

Oct 19, 2005 (7:51 pm)

I have a 1997 Metro 4 door, automatic, 4cyl. The body is in great shape except for minor hail damage and a few stains on the interior. The garage says it has low/no compression in one cylinder and needs another motor or complete overhaul. (I had been crossing my fingers that it would only be the headgasket) I've checked every salvage place in 60 miles with no luck. Any ideas where I can find a motor on line maybe? or even a round-house figure of what one may cost IF i do find one? any help is appreciated, Thanks!!

#744 of 1864 Re: Rough Idle [whitetop] by stan_top_down

Oct 19, 2005 (8:08 pm)

Replying to: whitetop (Oct 16, 2005 6:27 pm)
I've had a '92 Metro LSI convertible w 1.0L engine since new. Idle always rough below 1K - the engine only has 3 cylinders, and 3 into a 4 cycle engine doesn't come out even!
 
80K miles on it so far - engine remains top notch; ditto clutch, 5 speed manual transaxle, etc. I had front seats re-covered locally $150 a seat - well worth it in a (then) 10 yr old car I intended to keep.
 
I consistently get 32 -35 mpg in town; out of town depends on speed & wind. 70 mph no wind - 40 - 42 mpg; 75 (OK tollway - legal!) into 25 - 30 mph headwind - 30 mpg.
 
Goes 3000 miles betw oil changes & have never had to add oil.
 
Both Bridgestone & Pirelli 55 profile tires (as specified in the book) are awful; I now have a set of Michelins on it - 60 profile, so speedometer is off 5%, but much better traction on wet streets, smoother ride, and handling just as good. A bit of a penalty on acceleration, but on a car that takes > 20 seconds from 0 to 60, it doesn't really matter!
 
I hope you enjoy yours - I'm guessing it's not a ragtop - mine is & I'm still in love with it.

#745 of 1864 Re: Rough Idle [stan_top_down] by whitetop

Oct 22, 2005 (9:47 pm)

Replying to: stan_top_down (Oct 19, 2005 8:08 pm)
Thanks for writing. My '93 has 115K miles on it. It had 103K on it when I bought it 4 1/2 years ago. I drive it to work almost every day. I haven't checked mileage for a while, but I can drive three weeks or more on one tank of gas, which is perfect with today's prices. It also has a 5-speed like yours, no power steering or brakes, and doesn't burn any oil. It just has that rough idle. The car had 175/70 tires on it when I bought it and they look good. My speedometer is off a bit, too.
 
My interior is in really good shape other than the dashboard, which needs to be replaced. I had it repainted the original color (Polynesian Green) and I had a new custom white ragtop put on last fall. The top is usually down, especially since the A/C keeps going south. I'm not going to spend any more money on it for a while.
 
Thanks again for writing. I guess I won't worry about it for a while. I've always thought it was crazy to think three cylinders could run as smoothly as four. Where are you in OK? I bought this one in Tulsa.

#746 of 1864 Will Upgrading Tires From 155/80/13 to 175/70/13 Hurt Fuel Mileage? by pirate1

Oct 23, 2005 (5:22 am)

Metros,
 
     Will upgrading my tire size from 155/80/13 to 175/70/13 (2001 1.3 auto) hurt my fuel mileage (a solid 33 mixed driving)? Has anyone done this? Is hydroplaning worse when upgrading the tire size? Please advise. Go Metro! 61K and reliable city.

#747 of 1864 Re: Rough Idle [whitetop] by stan_top_down

Oct 23, 2005 (7:03 am)

Replying to: whitetop (Oct 22, 2005 9:47 pm)
Sorry for missing on your 1st post that you have a ragtop. I'm in Amarillo, TX, about 5 1/2 hrs from Tulsa.
 
My paint still looks good if I wax it, but, after 13 years, the clearcoat is gone. I took it to a body shop recently - the owner told me to wax it 4 times a year and not spend the $$ to have it repainted until the actual paint (blue) deteriorates. Yesterday I had it washed - then I used Kit car wax on it - it still looks good. Also, to get the scratches out of the rear window I use Kit scratch remover - I still have the original window, and it is in really good shape. Of course, it has been garage kept - I think that helps, but, like you, it's driven almost every day. In winter, with lots of snow, I drive my 4wd F250 stick Diesel - "slight" difference in clutch pressure & torque!
 
Best to you.

Messages Page 75 of 187

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement