Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#266 of 1867 To: ricky1metrofan Metro 2000
Jun 30, 2000 (3:21 am)
I too bought a brand new 2000 Metro in March. This will be my 3rd Metro (I had a '91 Metro bought brand new and traded it in for the 2000, and a '94 Metro, I bought it used and traded it in for a new car for my wife- a 2000 Chevy Tracker 4-door [aka: Suzuki Vitara]).
The one I have is an LSi Automatic hatchback, 1.3 liter engine, w/anti-lock brakes, CD/AM/FM Stereo, A/C,... well it has every option that was available for that car. The color is bright blue. I had a sunroof installed and an alarm system.
A lot of people thought I was crazy in getting all that stuff. I however, keep my cars for many years. Since Chevy announced they will no longer carry the Metro for retail after 2000, I decided to go all out. This is a collectors edition car.
Now to try and answer your questions:
1) Oil Filter
As long as your oil filter say's it will fit your car (and since 2000 is so new, it probably won't be listed yet. Look for the '99 Metro. The only difference between a '99 and a '00 model was two colors were added. Mechanically everything is the same), it should be under warranty. I've been told best bet is to change your oil & filter every 3,000 miles.
2) CV Joints
I haven't had any problems with CV Joints in any of my Metros. The '91 had over 130,000 miles on it (the clutch never was touched either). Of course, how you drive will say a lot too.
3) Timing belt
I know you can now drive up to 100,000 miles on the new Metro's before changing a timing belt. Personally, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole since the darn thing has a computer hooked up to the engine (and electrical system). I'd be afraid that if anything was out of kilter, the "Check Engine" light would come on.
Couple of suggestions. Watch your tires. Those goodyear invicta were horrible on my Metro. After awhile the rear tires "feathered" on the treads and it started to sound like I had truck or snow tires (noise). The best tires I've found are the Michelin Symmetry P175/70R13. If you can afford it, put a new set of 4 on your Metro. It makes a world of difference!
Also, there is available (it's expensive, but it is a nice feature), an inside rear latch release lever and striker plate. If you get it, order a 1995-97 rear latch too. The reason is the '98 to present models have an additional feature on the latch. It's a safety catch. It won't work with the release lever very well. If you get the earlier model latch, it'll work!
Welcome to the Club! Enjoy your new Metro!
#267 of 1867 PS: Automatic Transmission on the 1.3
Jun 30, 2000 (3:30 am)
A comment on the A/T for the 1.3L
I haven't had a bit of trouble with it. It has plenty of power (and I do mean plenty!).
It won't burn the rubber on your tires, but it will move. The biggest drawback is it could use a 4th gear for highway crusing. That would really help on mileage and cut back engine noise.
While the other Metro I had was a stick (and 1.0L engine), it got upper 40's on the mpg scale.
This 1.3L auto gets a solid 34 mpg around town. I know Suzuki could have done better, but that's something I'm willing to trade.
Jun 30, 2000 (11:27 pm)
I appreciate your feedback on the latch. The other day I had a "load" that I could've taken care of without shutting the engine down if I had that latch. Thanks.
On the tire issue, I kind of noticed that the Metro is getting bouncier on the ride, I ruled it out as the shocks. I'll keep you posted. So far I will not replace the tires just for a better ride I will wear this ones out first. With my kind of driving, quite possibly within a year (30,000 miles life expectancy). PS I did not know I had 13" wheels. I kinda take that as a bonus! LOL.
On the filter issue, I think you misunderstood me. All I wanted to know is if the "cheap" filter can void the manufacturer's warranty if I use it. Further research on this one has concluded that it "protects" new vehicle warranties. I'll keep you posted on what "protects" is defined as. But the construction and looks are the same, it is literarily the same filter I am just wondering of what is inside, the actual filter media, Is it the same as the more expensive counterparts? This just makes me want to buy two of them and rip them open to see... hmmmm that just occurred to me. I have no doubts that the cheap filter will fit.
Anyways, I thank you again for your input. Sincerely;
One Metro Fan
#269 of 1867 RE: Cheap Oil Filters
Jul 03, 2000 (12:48 pm)
Just a comment on using cheap oil and oil filters. My 2000 Swift is about 10 days old now and it replaced a 4 Cyl 2.2L NAPSZ I4 1983 Datsun 720 Pickup that I bought new and ran into the ground. I didn't use premium oil filters but good quality filters like Frams and Castrol GTX oil every 5,000 Miles from the day I got it till about a week before it died. When I died, it was the second manual transmission that seized up in it, but the motor was still running like new. It had 255,000 Km or 153,000 Miles on it when it was towed away to the scrap yard (the cost of repairing the transmission was more than the truck was worth).
I've read stories of courier drivers having up to 500,000 miles on a Metro and I really think if these cars are capable of that kind of durability the difference in cost of a quality oil and oil filter will pay off in the long run if you are planning to keep the car for that long.
Personally, I plan to start using synthetic oil after the break-in and if the warrenty will allow it. Since I managed to drag 17 years out of one vehicle that had no track record of durability, then with some care and attention, I should be able to make this one last at least as long.
One note on CV joints, all CV joints wear out eventually, the same as the old Universal joints in a rear drive vehicle with a drive shaft. How you drive will make all the difference in the world as to how long that joint will last. CV joints will fail more quickly if you gun the engine a lot while in gear especially if the wheels are turned.
The biggest thing to look out for that will kill a CV joint in a heartbeat is contamination. Keep an eye on the CV Joint boots. If they split or crack open and road grime gets in there, it will grind away at the joint and cause it to fail. Changing a cracked boot is a lot cheaper than replacing the shaft assembly as long as you catch it quick enough.
BTW, the second tank in my Swift Automatic was all highway for the holiday long weekend and managed 40 MPG or 7 L/100Km. The car just turned 1000Km/600Miles.
I agree that a 4 speed for highway cruising would be the cherry on top for this car and I would imagine that the mileage would rocket if we could drop the engine speed by a couple of thousand RPM at cruising speed. I plan on adding a cruise control in the next couple of weeks, hope that helps a little as well.
My Swift is black and I had the windows tinted on Friday, it looks awesome now. Sunroof next pay week.
#270 of 1867 ckpickup
Jul 04, 2000 (12:25 pm)
Post some pic's when you get done. I'm sure that everyone here would like to see.
Jul 05, 2000 (12:03 pm)
Sure I can do pictures. Since these come really plain, I'm trying to decide whether I should put some custom graphics on it as well. It kind of looks sharp on it's own...hmmmm.
Once I have the sunroof put in I'll get some pics on a web site and let you know.
#272 of 1867 ckpickup et all
Jul 07, 2000 (4:30 pm)
I would have loved to take your Datsun pickup, I am sure I can find a good 5-speed transmission for it in Dallas/Fort Worth. Oh well. The Cavalier goes up for sale in a week, now that the gead gasket is fixed and it runs halfway properly (still misfires a bit at highway speed), I should be able to get $3500-$4000 being a 1994 model and all with cold air. That will be more than enough to get another Metro. Well, those of you here with Metros for sale, 1995-up, whatever I get for that Cavalier is what I will have to spend. I must have cold air, a tachometer, and a stick. That will rule out the rentals and get me a good one. There is only one color I'm not interested in and that is California Gold, and I can't afford a 1998 anyway.
A friend on another list/board is having trouble with his airbag light. He wants to install a Grant steering wheel anywy, but he wonders how he can disable the airbag to do so. Is this legal, is it possible to do, and can it be done by him or does a Chevy tech have to disable it for him? I know about the medical/height reasons, but this is for an aftermarket part. I don't think he ought to remove it since the car is so small, but he insists. Any ideas?
#273 of 1867 First of all...
Jul 08, 2000 (10:47 pm)
The Chevy tech will not disable the air bag unless he has a special paper from a Government agency (can't remember which one though) due to safety reasons. Secondly, he wouldn't be able to sell the car after the air bag was disabled.
Jul 09, 2000 (6:46 am)
Hey I was just browsing the hatchback topic list and came across this forum. I had always considered the Metro a simple means of transportation and wouldnt have thought it had real fans! But I'm pleasantly surprised! I really admire the fact that you guys got the least pretentious car possible. It definately "serves a purpose" as someone said. Just good basic transportation. I'm a more spirited driver, however, so I like to make my drives more pleasurable, even if that means worse gas mileage. (I drive a 2000 Ford Focus ZX3)
#275 of 1867 Happy Geo owner a bit scared
Jul 09, 2000 (2:30 pm)
I have a '92 Geo Metro 2 dr hatch with 1.0 liter
and 5 speed. With 88K. I bought it at 49K and paid more because it was a towed vehicle (behind
a motorhome) and the owner (who died) just put a
grand into it. I am in outside sales and this is
a great one-person car and fits lots of stuff. I
need not mention the gas mileage.
I am concerned about the cost of parts. My clutch
went on the interstate the other day, had it fixed
by the closest Goodyear (had no choice), with the
bill about $700, excluding tow and tax. I was
dumfounded! A week later I brought it to a Chevy
dealer, showed them my receipt. They thought it
was in line with what they would charge, that
Suzuki parts are, for some reason, wildly expensive ($900 for its tiny radiator, $600 for an
I have always kept my cars well into the 100k's,
but I am concerned about this bit of news. Plus
I live in Florida on a barrier island, where the
salt air mixes with sheet metal.
Any thoughts, experiences?