1864 messages,
Last post on Aug 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM
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Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum.
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Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1815 of 1864 Re: Love my metros [stayingblessed]
by vanillalatte
Aug 18, 2011 (9:46 am)
Hear, Hear !!!
I'm with you all the way.
I bought a 94 2 door. Installed an XFi cam in it, thenthe final drive from a 4 cyl. I get 62 miles to the imperial gallon.
It's a 94, bought it with 40 thou. km on the odo. Now has 108 thou.
I have a vert, original paint, and went the other direction by installing a Firefly turbo everything in it. Full sway bars and chassis reinforcement !
They are not built for speed but for enjoyment.
#1816 of 1864 I love Geos too !
by suz13
Aug 18, 2011 (9:59 am)
I have a '97,4cyl,4door & love it. Paid 4G for it at a used car lot 6 yrs ago w/ only 60 thou miles on it. Am coming up on 200 thou. It drips a little oil & a little rain water gets in near my left foot,but i just throw towels down or cover the car w/ a tarp. Now that I've found the right combo of tires, sparkplugs,& lightweight oil I'm humming right along !
#1817 of 1864 Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot.
by alan87
Aug 29, 2011 (2:15 pm)
Need help please.2000 Metro 1.0 must cool for 2 hours when hot, or just won't start. Crank, crank crank. Replaced coil, distributor, wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, coolant sensor, ignition sensor and plugs. Is this a computer problem? Also, timing checked. Ran a dummy coolant sensor making the computer think it's always cold. Starts every time Thank you for any help. Alan
#1818 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
by zaken1
Aug 29, 2011 (5:18 pm)
The air charge temperature sensor (also called intake air temperature sensor) shown here: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=39914) is either shorted, or there is a short in its wiring. This is not a computer problem.
#1819 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [zaken1]
by alan87
Aug 30, 2011 (12:16 pm)
Thank you for the info./ Question: If the I.A.T. Sensor shorts or is bad, would my obd2 scan show a code and put on the check engine light? Thanking in advance for your help. Alan
#1820 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
by zaken1
Aug 30, 2011 (1:44 pm)
It may or may not throw a code or trigger the CEL. I would not expect a code in this instance.
#1821 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [zaken1]
by alan87
Sep 08, 2011 (12:04 pm)
Tried a new iat sensor, and still the same problem. Cooler days, after hot..restarted in about 1 or 2 hours. Now with the hot weather, won't start all day. Inside car, computer stays very hot, therefor, must be computer problem. I have done everything else. Any help, thanks. AJ
#1822 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
by zaken1
Sep 08, 2011 (2:04 pm)
In my first response long, long ago; I said that it was either a short in the sensor, OR IN ITS WIRING. You reported that you tried a new sensor; and added that you "have done everything else." Did doing everything else include testing all the wiring and other components (such as the throttle position sensor and MAP sensor) between the coolant temp sensor and the computer for shorts; which would be what is usually done to test the wiring; or just how did you test the wiring and what portion of the wiring did you test? It is not reasonable to conclude that it is a computer problem because the new IAT sensor didn't fix it. If it was a computer problem; your dummy coolant temp sensor wouldn't fix it; either.
#1823 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
by zaken1
Sep 08, 2011 (5:56 pm)
Now that I've cooled down a bit, and had a chance to consider this issue; I realized that the stock coolant temperature SHOULD BE doing exactly the same thing as your dummy sensor (having between 5,000 and 8,000 ohms resistance); when the vehicle is cold. But since the car won't start with the stock sensor connected, but starts consistently with your resistor in place; this means that either the sensor has a manufacturing defect; or the wiring connector to that sensor is wired wrong. This is a 3 terminal sensor. It is intended to serve two functions at once: provide temperature signals to the gauge on the dashboard; and also provide temperature signals to the ECU.
If you have rewired the sensor harness plug; it may be that you exchanged the positions of the gauge and ECU leads. This could conceivably put 12 volts battery voltage into the ECU; when it is only intended to receive a 5 volt signal in the coolant temperature sensor lead. That would throw the calibration of the ECU temperature signal way off. But when you hook up the dummy load; that connection would not also have the dash gauge wiring connected to it (or so I would imagine). If you are with me on this one; I'd like to see what happens if you connect the ECU section of the sensor to the wiring harness, in the correct polarity; but leave off the wire for the dash gauge.
#1824 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [zaken1]
by alan87
Sep 10, 2011 (11:05 am)
Thanking you again for your help. Will conduct your recommended testing. Today, started the engine at 8 am, turned off after 10 seconds. Started at 9 am, off after 10 seconds. Again, started ok at 10 am...off after 10 seconds. Same at 11 am and most likely all day. Now I'm thinking Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pump. But again, how are they associated with HEAT? Thanks, AJ