Last post on Aug 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1813 of 1864 Re: 2000 Metro Serpentine Belt Change Question [alniter]
Aug 17, 2011 (11:04 pm)
Two more points to consider: The air filter housing should be removed in order to facilitate greater access to the alternator. It is fastened with a wing nut in the center of the top, and a bolt into the valve cover. There are also three spring latches around the circumference of the filter housing, which should be released. The filter assembly can then be lifted far enough off the throttle body to enable access to the alternator. There will be an electrical connector at the intake air temperature sensor, and some vacuum hoses at the underside of the filter housing which can probably remain connected; but be sure to check that everything is still securely connected when reinstalling the filter housing.
The fan belt (it is called a ribbed belt; not a serpentine belt, as serpentine belts are wider and much longer, since they have an idler wheel/tensioner which presses down on the belt in between pulleys to adjust and maintain tension, and serpentine belts typically go through several sharp arcs) may have broken from age; but it also could have been that the belt broke because the alternator or the water pump locked up. So be sure to turn the water pump and the alternator pulleys and check for looseness, play, friction and wobble before installing the new belt.
Aug 18, 2011 (8:40 am)
Hi I am now on my 8 & 9th metro.
I love them. we currently have 1990 4 dr automatic and 91 convertible standard.
the metro was not built for speed, how ever I just recently put a HHO unit from www.highperformancefuelcells.com on my 90 4 dr that joker was accelerating up the hills. The mileage for an automatic when the car is runing wright is 45mpg the standard will get you 55 mpg.
If your struts, alignment or tires are out of sink your mileage can easily drop to 35 mpg. these cars are cheap to buy and you can do a complete over hall for what you paid for the car. They will run for ever if you maintain it.
I had a 91 two door hatch that had over 400k miles and there was no reverse for over 100k. I gave it to a friend who was desperate for transportation to get to work. He drove it another 250k and sold it. He never had the reverse fixed. The car is still running. It take allot to kill a geo.
The 2dr hatch is a great car but hard to get in and out of the back. The convertible is awesome! Boy is it a head turner. Lots of fun the trunk has good space. plus you can store stuff under the trunk from the inside of the car. There is a space that is 8" tall that fits tool and stuff you don't use much. The 4dr hatch is a great car if you need to transport people and stuff. Lots of room . The 4 door are hard to find. if you get one that is under $1500 jump on it even if you have to put work into it.
Just know that if you are in an accident the small car looses. Always give the crazy's on the road freedom to get out of your space.
I have always gotten the full amount of money back that was put into my geo's. With the gas savings and keeping good records on the work you have done, you can't loose.
The money we save on gas, we are able to buy annual passes for our whole family to all 4 Disney parks. $2500 for the past 5 years
Hope you enjoy the wonderful world of geo's
#1815 of 1864 Re: Love my metros [stayingblessed]
Aug 18, 2011 (9:46 am)
Hear, Hear !!!
I'm with you all the way.
I bought a 94 2 door. Installed an XFi cam in it, thenthe final drive from a 4 cyl. I get 62 miles to the imperial gallon.
It's a 94, bought it with 40 thou. km on the odo. Now has 108 thou.
I have a vert, original paint, and went the other direction by installing a Firefly turbo everything in it. Full sway bars and chassis reinforcement !
They are not built for speed but for enjoyment.
#1816 of 1864 I love Geos too !
Aug 18, 2011 (9:59 am)
I have a '97,4cyl,4door & love it. Paid 4G for it at a used car lot 6 yrs ago w/ only 60 thou miles on it. Am coming up on 200 thou. It drips a little oil & a little rain water gets in near my left foot,but i just throw towels down or cover the car w/ a tarp. Now that I've found the right combo of tires, sparkplugs,& lightweight oil I'm humming right along !
#1817 of 1864 Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot.
Aug 29, 2011 (2:15 pm)
Need help please.2000 Metro 1.0 must cool for 2 hours when hot, or just won't start. Crank, crank crank. Replaced coil, distributor, wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, coolant sensor, ignition sensor and plugs. Is this a computer problem? Also, timing checked. Ran a dummy coolant sensor making the computer think it's always cold. Starts every time Thank you for any help. Alan
#1818 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
Aug 29, 2011 (5:18 pm)
The air charge temperature sensor (also called intake air temperature sensor) shown here: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=39914) is either shorted, or there is a short in its wiring. This is not a computer problem.
#1819 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [zaken1]
Aug 30, 2011 (12:16 pm)
Thank you for the info./ Question: If the I.A.T. Sensor shorts or is bad, would my obd2 scan show a code and put on the check engine light? Thanking in advance for your help. Alan
#1820 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
Aug 30, 2011 (1:44 pm)
It may or may not throw a code or trigger the CEL. I would not expect a code in this instance.
#1821 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [zaken1]
Sep 08, 2011 (12:04 pm)
Tried a new iat sensor, and still the same problem. Cooler days, after hot..restarted in about 1 or 2 hours. Now with the hot weather, won't start all day. Inside car, computer stays very hot, therefor, must be computer problem. I have done everything else. Any help, thanks. AJ
#1822 of 1864 Re: Metro 1.0 starts cold, but not hot. [alan87]
Sep 08, 2011 (2:04 pm)
In my first response long, long ago; I said that it was either a short in the sensor, OR IN ITS WIRING. You reported that you tried a new sensor; and added that you "have done everything else." Did doing everything else include testing all the wiring and other components (such as the throttle position sensor and MAP sensor) between the coolant temp sensor and the computer for shorts; which would be what is usually done to test the wiring; or just how did you test the wiring and what portion of the wiring did you test? It is not reasonable to conclude that it is a computer problem because the new IAT sensor didn't fix it. If it was a computer problem; your dummy coolant temp sensor wouldn't fix it; either.