Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1706 of 1867 Re: 1990 Geo Metro will not start [zaken1]
Dec 24, 2009 (7:57 pm)
I am sorry that I did not make myself clear before about the starting problem . The ignition will not even turn over. I turn the ignition switch to the acc and nothing. I have power coming of the wire but it goes into the ECM and that is were I lose it. I have no instrument panel lights and there is nothing when I turn the key. I will have to check the fuses under the dash again, because I just did a visual when I pulled them out. Thank you for all of your information.
#1707 of 1867 Re: 1999 Metro LSi [zaken1]
Dec 24, 2009 (11:36 pm)
so i'm not the type to work on the car myself. so if i take it into the a shop what would be the best advice for me to ask the mechanic to check out and/or replace?
I thought something is wrong with the alternator because she said the car died on her a stop since this noise appeared. at our last oil change was told that belt is cracked but i figured a belt wouldn't make a metal rattling sound. but with that belt being bad, could that be causing something running on that belt to be making that metal rattling noise?
#1708 of 1867 Re: Bad valves? [samcro]
Dec 27, 2009 (12:27 pm)
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Never received a prompt about a new post on this forum. The notification software is sometimes unreliable (but it is still a great resource). The only reason I'm here now is that I spotted your visit to my cubbyhole.
From the compression test results, it is not just one bad cylinder. ALL of the cylinders are below specs (stock compression pressure is 195psi). But judging from the excellent mileage you were recently getting; I doubt the motor wore out suddenly. Instead, it sounds highly likely that the valves have become coated with deposits from the use of cheap fuel. And these deposits are making the valves stick in their guides and not seat consistently; which drops the compression pressures. So, before you tear into the engine, I would strongly recommend buying a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system and combustion chamber cleaner; and adding the whole bottle to the gas tank just before filling the tank with fuel. If you have caught it early enough, this miracle product may save you a whole bunch of money and labor. Please do not use a different brand. This is the most effective cleaner available. It usually takes 50 to 75 miles of driving for this product to clean out the deposits. If it brings the compression up, I would suggest using only high quality branded fuel (Chevron, Texaco, or Shell), to reduce the likelihood that this problem will repeat. If you are using NGK spark plugs; I would also replace then with Autolite #63 spark plugs, gapped .042".
Unless you have evidence to the contrary, I would be surprised if the rings, bearings or oil pump need replacement at this mileage. If the compression does not come up after the Techron cleaning, I would just have the head rebuilt. Please note that there is a huge difference in the quality of machine work done by different shops; and all too much of it is substandard. So I would go out of my way to use a machine shop that is known for doing premium quality work on high performance engines. A production head remanufacturer may or may not do good work.
If you have good reason to want to replace the rings; I would suggest first checking the cylinder bores for taper. If the bore taper is out of specs; then a set of new rings will not do the job. Also, by the time the rings on a Japanese motor need replacing; the ring grooves in the pistons will usually have become worn to the point that compression will leak past the rings through the grooves. That is why piston replacement (and possibly reboring the cylinders) is often necessary in order to recover original engine performance.
If that level of work was necessary, I personally would exchange the motor for a high quality remanufactured motor from Hiperformer Engines, in Spokane Washington. They provide a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty on their motors; and have the lowest return rate in the industry. They are the exclusive supplier of remanufactured motors for the NAPA auto parts chain; but they also sell directly to the public, at astonishingly low prices. Their Geo Metro long blocks cost around $1,300 plus shipping. And they ship anywhere in the US at very low prices. Check out their website at www.hiperformer.com
#1709 of 1867 Re: Bad valves? [zaken1]
Dec 27, 2009 (12:42 pm)
Thanks so much Zaken1...your knowledge is amazing and I'm going to the parts house as soon as possible to get some Techron! Thanks so much for the info.
#1710 of 1867 1999 Chevy Metro won't run
Dec 27, 2009 (5:00 pm)
It quite running and won't start but turns over. It's a 1.3 4 cyl. with auto trans. It has 64,000 miles and has been a great car. The timing belt is good. It won't fire or inject fuel. I've tried 2 used computers and that made no difference. I'm wondering about the map sensor, temperature sensor or throttle position sensor. It has a new crank shaft position sensor and a new cam sensor. I'm hoping I don't have to buy a new computer. Any ideas out there?? Thanks a lot, JohnKel
#1711 of 1867 Re: 1999 Metro LSi [cafann]
Dec 27, 2009 (11:20 pm)
A defective belt might or might not create a resonant noise in one of the pulleys; but since it is uncertain, there is no point in sitting around and speculating about it: That belt should be replaced anyway; if the noise stops after the belt is replaced, then the belt was the source of the problem. If the noise continues with a new belt; then the noise was not coming from the belt.
If you take the car to a mechanic; describe the noise and tell them that you hear it coming from the passenger side of the motor, but you don't know where the source is. Ask them to replace the belt (preferably with a Goodyear Gatorback, if available) and suggest that they check the alternator and water pump pulleys for free rotation and excessive side play while the belt is off; to see whether either of them are the source of the noise. Before removing the old belt; the mechanic should also be able to use a stethescope or a wooden rod (such as a broom handle) while the motor is running, to touch the housing (not the pulley!!!) of each part while pressing their ear against the other end of the stick. That should make it obvious where the noise is coming from. Come to think of it; you could also do that yourself, to see if you can find the source, before taking the car in. All rotating objects on the motor will produce some amount and type of noise; but what you should look for is an object that produces substantially more noise than any other part. Just be careful to not let the stick become entangled in the moving belt.
If neither the belt, the alternator, nor the water pump is causing the noise; then the timing belt cover should be removed; in order to inspect the timing belt, the timing belt tensioner, and the idler pulley. I expect the source of the sound will be located by that time. And the timing belt should be replaced arbitrarily; if you do not know when it was last done; or if it has been more than 60,000 miles since the last replacement. I usually replace mine at 90,000; but if you already have opened the cover, it would be appropriate to do it then, even if it is a little early. Labor is expensive these days.
#1712 of 1867 Re: 1999 Chevy Metro won't run [johnkel]
Dec 27, 2009 (11:53 pm)
There is another stupid GM better idea on that car; called the ECM main relay. It is a cheap relay that is operated by the ECM; which can fail and shut everything down. Rock Auto gets $5.28 for the Beck Arnley relay # 2030133; or $27.79 for the equivalent AC Delco relay # 212360. Beck Arnley is usually top quality; but the unit in their photo is labeled "made in Taiwan." So this is one application where I might prefer the more expensive AC Delco unit. Incidentally; this relay is identical to the fuel pump relay and the fuel injector relay; so you might try swapping them out, just to see whether that brings back the spark. I believe these relays are located in or next to the underhood the fuse box; on the driver's side, in front of the shock tower.
#1713 of 1867 How to remove valve cover 3cyl Metro
Dec 28, 2009 (1:51 pm)
I just bought a 91 Metro 3 cyl a/t. Odometer: 129,000. The owner said that it had low compression in no.1 cyl. In starting, it spins like the plugs are out.. but starts up quickly and runs ok. In drive it shakes and with ac on, it will not idle. It drives ok and shifts ok but does smoke a little and uses a lot of oil. I attempted to remove the valve cover and the cyl head, but was unable to break the valve cover loose. What's holding it on ? Just 4 nuts holding it but it will not break loose. I suspect burned valves, but cannot check without removing the cyl head. HELP !!!
#1714 of 1867 Re: How to remove valve cover 3cyl Metro [crbobr]
Dec 28, 2009 (3:01 pm)
That valve cover can be a puzzle! I haven't removed mine, but I did take the nuts off, and found that the nuts attach to specially shaped studs, which fit closely in the valve cover. This suggests that the studs prevent any side movement; which precisely positions the gasket surface. Because of this, I expect that it will not be helpful to try moving the valve cover from side to side to break it loose. The only direction that looks like it will work is to pry it straight up, at as many different points as possible. There probably is gasket cement on the old gasket; which will make it that much harder to move.
#1715 of 1867 Re: How to remove valve cover 3cyl Metro [zaken1]
Dec 28, 2009 (3:51 pm)
That's pretty much how I saw it.. But I've tried for some time now and I'm afraid I'm going to break something.. There aren't many places where prying up can be safely done.. Anyone else got any ideas ???