Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1696 of 1867 Re: 2000 Chevy Metro transmission noise [ccs_metro]
Dec 06, 2009 (11:26 pm)
My Metro has done that for years. It comes and goes over time. Seems to be a result of the trans linkage loosening up after many miles of use. Mine becomes less noticeable when the engine runs better and strains less. I would not be surprised if heavy gear oil, which makes shifting more difficult, would reduce that noise. But I certainly would not use heavy gear oil to get rid of that noise. Better to live with the noise and shift easier.
I'm curious about the Geo synthetic gear oil you mentioned: Is that sold by Chevy dealers? In the US or just in Canada? And what is the brand and viscosity?
#1697 of 1867 Re: 2000 Chevy Metro transmission noise [zaken1]
Dec 10, 2009 (5:54 pm)
I got the synthetic oil from a Chevy dealer. I will have to check the brand name and viscosity, but it matches the 'spec lube' for the 2000 Metro. I will reply with the info later.
Dec 23, 2009 (11:01 am)
Anyone selling a Quality Geo Metro,I am from California.
#1699 of 1867 Re: Want to buy a Geo Metro [johnnymnemonic]
Dec 23, 2009 (12:43 pm)
Last I heard, they frown on using this site for selling vehicles. But Metros are becoming rarer all the time. I bought my 1990 3 cylinder, 5 speed hatchback in 1992. And at that time, there were no Metros within 50 miles of San Jose. So I had to drive all the way to Hollister to get that car. And I've never regretted it. Just be sure to run a compression test (spec is 195 psi on 3 cylinder motors), and by all means avoid automatics.
#1700 of 1867 Re: Want to buy a Geo Metro [zaken1]
Dec 23, 2009 (3:26 pm)
Thanks for the reply.Will take note of that.
I saw this ad.It was a 97 metro they were selling it for 1995$.It still has a good paint from the picture.
I will have a look at it.
#1701 of 1867 1999 Metro LSi
Dec 24, 2009 (12:24 pm)
My mother has a metro 4cyl with auto trans. been running great still does however a noise has come up and until I can confirm what it is she'd not driving it.
The noise is like a metal rattling sound when the engine is running. It sounds over near the belts, so the pass side of the car. I listen sloser to the engine and it sounds within right near the belts.I noticed something sounded funny weeks ago but now the sound is much louder.
#1702 of 1867 1990 Geo Metro will not start
Dec 24, 2009 (1:30 pm)
I have a 90' Geo Metro that will not start, I have changed the battery and ignition switch. I have traced 12v to ignition switch, to the fuses in the engine compartment, starter, and the alternator. I have pulled the ECM and checked it for damage and corrosion and it is clean. I have traced the schematics and it all goes back to the ECM. I have no aux power to the dash or radio. The key sound goes off when the door is open and the dome light comes on. I just do not know what else it could be with out having to spend the money for a new ECM.
#1703 of 1867 Re: 1999 Metro LSi [cafann]
Dec 24, 2009 (4:04 pm)
I would expect the noise comes from either the water pump, alternator, or the timing belt tensioner. You can prove or disprove the water pump and alternator by disconnecting the drive belt. (it is OK to run the motor without the drive belt if you do so for less than 60 seconds). If the noise is no longer there when the motor runs; then I would replace one of those two items. While the drive belt is disconnected; try rocking the water pump and alternator pulleys. There should be no side play noticeable in either of those pulleys. Replace any one in which you can feel noticeable play. If the noise continues when the drive belt is disconnected, it probably comes from the timing belt tensioner or idler pulley. The timing belt should be changed at 90,000 miles, anyway.
#1704 of 1867 Re: 1990 Geo Metro will not start [thejunglelove]
Dec 24, 2009 (5:39 pm)
From what you wrote; it is not clear to me whether the starter runs or not. If the problem is that the starter doesn't crank the engine; the clutch switch (on manual transmission vehicles) or the neutral safety switch (on automatic transmission vehicles) is probably defective. The clutch switch can be temporarily bypassed by shorting the terminals in its plug together. But I have also seen the starter stop working when barely visible corrosion developed on the washers between the battery cable end and the nut on the starter. And, of course, starters can also go bad.
The ECM on these vehicles is far less likely to fail than just about any other part on the car; so I would set that concern aside unless it is later conclusively proved.
There is also another fuse block under the dashboard. If you haven't already done so; I would pull and test each fuse in that block with an ohmmeter (because fuses can go open but still look good to the eye). I have also seen Metro fuse blocks develop internal open circuits; so you might check whether there is power at each fuse. Remember that some fuses are wired to only be hot when the key is on.
But back to the starting problem: The way to simplify starting problems is to first determine whether the problem comes from lack of spark, fuel, or compression. A compression problem could be caused by the timing belt breaking or jumping out of sync. If the timing belt broke; it would also shut down the spark. So the easiest way to begin would be to remove the distributor cap, crank the starter, and see whether the distributor rotor turns. If the rotor spins at a steady pace; then the timing belt has not broken; but it still may have jumped out of sync. The next thing to do is to turn the crankshaft pulley until the timing mark lines up with the 6 degree BTDC mark on the degree scale on the timing cover. Then take another look at the distributor rotor; the rotor tip should point either straight up; or straight down. If the rotor points anywhere else (even by a small amount) then the timing belt has jumped out of position. Incidentally, a jumped or broken timing belt will also make the starter spin faster than normal; and the engine will sound different than usual while cranking.
If the above test did not locate the source of the problem; the next thing to do is to check for spark. The proper way to do this is to borrow one of the plug wires from the distributor cap, and temporarily plug it into the coil. Insert a clean spark plug into the plug boot on that wire, and clamp or tape the spark plug so that its threads rest on the metal of the engine block (or on another metal surface which you know is electrically grounded to the engine.) When you crank the engine; there should be a steady series of blue/white sparks between the plug electrodes. If there are no sparks, or the sparks are yellow or faint; measure the resistance of the plug wire. There should be less than 1,000 ohms resistance for each inch of wire length. Be sure to contact the metal terminals at both ends of the wire with the meter probes. If the coil wire, or any plug wire has excessive resistance; replace the entire wire set.
If you are still not getting sparks in the above test; then either the coil, the ignition module, or the distributor pick up unit is defective. The distributor pick up unit is more likely to cause this problem than either of the other parts. Here's a test you can do to check the distributor pick up: Get a known good 1.5 volt flashlight battery (either AA, AAA, C, or D cell) and two 4" to 6" lengths of 14 to 18 gauge electrical wire with the insulation stripped back 3/8" from each end. Remove the distributor cap, and find the ignition module inside the distributor. It is the part with the wire that goes out through the side of the distributor and ends at a white harness plug. The module also has two screw terminals on it; to which the wires from the pick up unit attach.(On 1990 Metros built for the Canadian market, the ignition module will be mounted on the firewall near the coil.)
Leave the plug wire and spark plug connected to the coil as it was for the spark test. Turn on the ignition switch to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on. Then hold or firmly tape one end of each length of electrical wire so it is pressed against an end of the battery, and briefly touch the other ends of the wires to the two screw terminals on the module. There should be a spark at the spark plug each time you touch the wires to the screws. If you were not getting sparks before, but this test produces sparks; then the pick up coil is defective. The way to run this test on Canadian vehicles is to disconnect the harness plug next to the distributor; and with the key on, briefly touch the two flashlight battery wires to the terminals in the plug section which goes to the firewall. If at first you don't get sparks in this test; try reversing the position of the two flashlight battery wires.
If there is still no spark in this test; the ignition module is probably defective.
If you get sparks from the tests; and the motor cranks but still doesn't start; the problem is in the electric fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or fuel pump fuse. Another possibility might be that the distributor cap is either cracked or carbon tracked; or that the distributor rotor is internally shorted to ground.
#1705 of 1867 Bad valves?
Dec 24, 2009 (6:14 pm)
I have a '91 Geo Metro with 119,000 miles on it that recently started missing pretty bad at idle. Gas mileage went from a great 49 mpg to a ho-hum 37mpg. As soon as I give it a little throttle the miss pretty much goes away but it is really hard to take off when it is running on 2 cylinders at an intersection. I did a compression test and looking at the engine from the front of the car I started on the left (front) side of the engine. Results were as follows: Cylinder #1 = 175 psi, #2 = 26 psi and finally #3 = 171 psi. I think I have a bad valve...what do you think? I'm going to replace the head with a new rebuilt unit and at the same time I want to put rings and bearings in it plus a new oil pump. Let me know if I need anything else. I've heard that I can do all of this without taking out the engine...is this correct?