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1692 messages,  Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM

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#1690 of 1692 Re: Head Scratcher [shaggyman1] by zaken1 Oct 16, 2009 (7:30 am)
Replying to: shaggyman1 (Oct 14, 2009 2:55 pm) After further reflection on your problem, I want to add that if my suggestions about the firing order and distributor cap/rotor were not the answer; then this would sound to me like either the spark does not have enough energy to fire the plugs during cranking; or the crankshaft position sensor is bad.. If either the CPS was really bad, or the spark was too weak; then the reflected pulse created by disconnecting the # 1 plug wire would "kick" the system in a similar way to what the CPS is normally designed to do, and the timing of that pulse might be close enough to persuade the engine to start. Since CPS failures are relatively common; that would be the first item I would suspect.   But if the CPS is not the answer, then I would go through the ignition and electrical system; looking for potential sources of low voltage. The most likely items to check would be:   Plugs partially fouled, or gaps set too wide; or side electrode, series gap, or surface gap plug being used (all of which would create an excessively high ignition voltage requirement).   Alternator output low or non-existent   Battery condition and connections   Ignition switch has excessive resistance   Ignition coil primary connections possibly reversed   Distributor pick up coil air gap set too wide   Ignition module defective   I hope this helps!!! Replies to this message: shaggyman1 (Oct 16, 2009 9:29 am)
#1691 of 1692 Re: Head Scratcher [zaken1] by shaggyman1 Oct 16, 2009 (9:29 am)
Replying to: zaken1 (Oct 16, 2009 7:30 am) The CPS is a possibility- I'll swap it out. I replaced the cap with a higher quality one, thinking that it could be crossing off the #1, but the spark is pretty good (enough to support 75 MPH with no hesitation) now that cap has been replaced. I'm now looking at fuel injection- NOT cool. When cold, the manifold is quite wet, a mirror down in the TB does not show anything I would call a spray pattern. I replaced the injector with no change- I think it is not the problem. A Noid does not flash when Ignition is turned on, and a test lamp connected to battery and the Yellow/Black wire on the Injector Connector does not flash. Swapped ECM- no change. At this very moment I am re doing the ECM grounds (thinking of running a parallel wire from battery to grounds on manifold, as well as under the dash), and checking the injection control circuit at the ECM harness- appears to be open.   I'll keep you posted- it would be really nice to finally solve the problem that has been plaguing me since April.....
#1692 of 1692 Burning 60 amp fuse by eric61 Oct 24, 2009 (5:27 pm)
Hello Everyone. So I hooked up the altenator and when I connected the ground to the battery I snapped the big yellow 60 amp fuse sitting next to the battery. I disconnected the big altenator wire, thinking it might be shorted out, but when testing with test light it didn't go on. The test light comes on when I touched the altenator because it is grounded. I got a new fuse and with the battery ground connected I touched the big altenator wire to the altenator connection and a big spark and another $2.99 fuse burned. I pulled off the altenator thinking maybe it's shorted out and took it to the shop where it tested OK. Am I stupid and missing something here? Thanks in advance for help. Eric

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