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#1682 of 1692 Oil in air fitler chamber in 1996 geo metro LSI by vikasintl Oct 05, 2009 (6:20 am)
In 1996 Geo Metro 4 cyl. LSI 1.3 liter what could be cause for oil in air filter chamber and leak from there? And once you tell us what could be cause what is the solution for that? Car has 134K miles on it? does it indicate motor needs to be rebuilt? Someone suggested to use sea foam and some one suggested to change PCV valve? Some one else said leaking head valves. How much it should cost to fix this? Replies to this message: shaggyman1 (Oct 05, 2009 6:57 am)
#1683 of 1692 Re: Oil in air fitler chamber in 1996 geo metro LSI [vikasintl] by shaggyman1 Oct 05, 2009 (6:57 am)
Replying to: vikasintl (Oct 05, 2009 6:20 am) Save your money on the SeaFoam- it will make it worse, and it is only kerosene with some detergent in it. The oil is coming in to the air filter housing through your PCV valve, probably due to worn rings. It is also possible that it is worn valve guides. Or both. Not much to be done about either without a teardown. If you are a competent mechanic, you might get by for under $200 in parts and valve job labor, depending on how bad things are. The sky is the limit on what you *can* spend....
#1684 of 1692 Can't find where oil leak comes from in Geo Metro 97 Help! by papazcol Oct 12, 2009 (10:32 am)
Hello, hopefully somebody can help. I found an oil leak on the right corner of the oil pan (seeing from the driver’s seat). The oil pan seal was replaced but the leak is still there, the thing is I can’t see where exactly the leak comes from, oil filter is new and dry.The alternator belt is also new. I don’t know if this has something to do with the leak but it came after I removed the AC compressor’s belt (the bearing was broken and replacing the compressor was about the price of the car itself). . I appreciate any comment. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Oct 12, 2009 12:13 pm) papazcol (Oct 14, 2009 6:08 pm) zaken1 (Oct 14, 2009 7:44 pm)
#1685 of 1692 Re: Can't find where oil leak comes from in Geo Metro 97 Help! [papazcol] by zaken1 Oct 12, 2009 (12:13 pm)
Replying to: papazcol (Oct 12, 2009 10:32 am) The most likely source of an oil leak in that area would be a bad front crankshaft oil seal. This is a seal on the end of the crankshaft, in the engine block behind the bottom (smaller) timing belt sprocket. The crank pulley, timing cover, timing belt, and lower sprocket would have to be removed to access that seal. If that seal was bad; it would spray oil all over the timing belt and the inside of the timing cover, which would lead to the belt degrading and eventually failing. It would also cause oil to leak out onto the fan belt pulley and the oil pan. Replies to this message: papazcol (Oct 14, 2009 6:08 pm) zaken1 (Oct 14, 2009 7:44 pm)
#1686 of 1692 Head Scratcher by shaggyman1 Oct 14, 2009 (2:55 pm)
1996 5/3 Good (180 all 3 tested today) compression. Replaced: Coil Noise Suppressor Injector Injector Resistor Plugs Plug Wires Pickup Coil PCV MAP sensor TPS MAT sensor   Timing is 10 BTC, firing order 1-3-2 Will not start, EXCEPT if I remove #1 spark plug wire- then it will start and idle on 2 cylinders. WTF? Replies to this message: zaken1 (Oct 14, 2009 7:34 pm) zaken1 (Oct 16, 2009 7:30 am) shaggyman1 (Oct 16, 2009 9:29 am)
#1687 of 1692 Re: Can't find where oil leak comes from in Geo Metro 97 Help! [zaken1] by papazcol Oct 14, 2009 (6:08 pm)
Replying to: zaken1 (Oct 12, 2009 12:13 pm) Thanks Zanken, do you know if there is a way to diagnostic if the crankshaft seal is bad without removing all these pieces? should be a leak coming from inside the pulley? it's quite difficult to say right? Regards. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Oct 14, 2009 7:44 pm)
#1688 of 1692 Re: Head Scratcher [shaggyman1] by zaken1 Oct 14, 2009 (7:34 pm)
Replying to: shaggyman1 (Oct 14, 2009 2:55 pm) Hi again,   The firing order on that distributor runs COUNTERCLOCKWISE; with the #1 wire located at about 12 o'clock on the cap, and # 1 cylinder being the one closest to the timing belt. If you read the firing order on the cap clockwise from #1; it should be 1-2-3. If that is not the problem; I would change the distributor cap and rotor.   Joel
#1689 of 1692 Re: Can't find where oil leak comes from in Geo Metro 97 Help! [papazcol] by zaken1 Oct 14, 2009 (7:44 pm)
Replying to: papazcol (Oct 14, 2009 6:08 pm) If you use a rag soaked with solvent to thoroughly wipe and clean off all oil and debris from the underside of the pan and the inside surface of the pulley, and then let the motor run in neutral for a while, you should be able to see where the leak is originating from. But if you drive the car before you inspect it, the wind will blow the oil around; and it will be much harder to see where the leak is located. If it is not coming from directly underneath the pulley; the pan gasket may have been damaged or improperly installed; or the sealing surfaces may not have been completely cleaned of old gasket material before the new gasket was installed.
#1690 of 1692 Re: Head Scratcher [shaggyman1] by zaken1 Oct 16, 2009 (7:30 am)
Replying to: shaggyman1 (Oct 14, 2009 2:55 pm) After further reflection on your problem, I want to add that if my suggestions about the firing order and distributor cap/rotor were not the answer; then this would sound to me like either the spark does not have enough energy to fire the plugs during cranking; or the crankshaft position sensor is bad.. If either the CPS was really bad, or the spark was too weak; then the reflected pulse created by disconnecting the # 1 plug wire would "kick" the system in a similar way to what the CPS is normally designed to do, and the timing of that pulse might be close enough to persuade the engine to start. Since CPS failures are relatively common; that would be the first item I would suspect.   But if the CPS is not the answer, then I would go through the ignition and electrical system; looking for potential sources of low voltage. The most likely items to check would be:   Plugs partially fouled, or gaps set too wide; or side electrode, series gap, or surface gap plug being used (all of which would create an excessively high ignition voltage requirement).   Alternator output low or non-existent   Battery condition and connections   Ignition switch has excessive resistance   Ignition coil primary connections possibly reversed   Distributor pick up coil air gap set too wide   Ignition module defective   I hope this helps!!! Replies to this message: shaggyman1 (Oct 16, 2009 9:29 am)
#1691 of 1692 Re: Head Scratcher [zaken1] by shaggyman1 Oct 16, 2009 (9:29 am)
Replying to: zaken1 (Oct 16, 2009 7:30 am) The CPS is a possibility- I'll swap it out. I replaced the cap with a higher quality one, thinking that it could be crossing off the #1, but the spark is pretty good (enough to support 75 MPH with no hesitation) now that cap has been replaced. I'm now looking at fuel injection- NOT cool. When cold, the manifold is quite wet, a mirror down in the TB does not show anything I would call a spray pattern. I replaced the injector with no change- I think it is not the problem. A Noid does not flash when Ignition is turned on, and a test lamp connected to battery and the Yellow/Black wire on the Injector Connector does not flash. Swapped ECM- no change. At this very moment I am re doing the ECM grounds (thinking of running a parallel wire from battery to grounds on manifold, as well as under the dash), and checking the injection control circuit at the ECM harness- appears to be open.   I'll keep you posted- it would be really nice to finally solve the problem that has been plaguing me since April.....

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