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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1696 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 11:26 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: zaken1 (Sep 25, 2009 12:07 pm) All of the TPS units (5) are the same- 3 wires, same as my harness. Input Voltage from ECU, Signal to CPU, and ground. Signal always goes through the potentiometer. Distributor is correct- with no vacuum advance and the pickiup coil bench tests okay. EGR is a bit different: Vacuum from TB base goes to a VSV, which goes to the "P" side of the modulator. The "Q" side of the modulator goes to a second VSV, which controls actuating vacuum from another spigot on the TB, which is connected to the EGR through this second VSV. All connections are true to the diagram on the hood. The third and lowest spigot goes to the purge system. I think I will try plugging the line to the purge system and see what it does to a cold start. I have a new thermostat which functions as expected, and have "burped the system from the high point on the back of the TB. Spot on with the pressure check- I hadn't thought about it in that way. If the engine is cold, there should be no increase in pressure until the coolant starts warming up, so an increase would have to come from combustion gasses leaking into it. I sure hope not- I really don't want to tear the whole thing down again. Sigh. At least I have a couple other blocks to start with, and might as well jump on whichever one has cylinders in better shape. (BTW, the piston ring grooves appeared to be undamaged, although I didn't bother to mike them- I was hoping for a quick 'n' dirty rehabilitation, not a perfect remanufacture) Thanks for the good advice.... |
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I have a 1996 geo metro I am restoring and the vacuum hoses are missing. Its a 1.3 liter. Does anyone have a diagram of these hoses? Thanks |
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I have 95 metro 1.0 engine with manual 5 speed it starts and runs as long as i give it gas and drives normally. just replaced fuel regulator had head done a few weeks ago ran fine for a week then this O2sensor gave readings of .4- to 1.2 volts seams a little high since most i read say up to 1 volt TPS was smooth resistance from bottom of reading to top dont remember what the readings where exactly idle control motor is working after took it off and cleaned it and surrounding stuff. also the fuel milage has dropped 5-7 mpg since head gasket was done not so much worried about that as the wont idle (dies every time come to stop sign) since i drive 55 miles to work then same home kind of pain driving it this way i am new here so any help would be appreceated()
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Replying to: leadfoot429 (Oct 01, 2009 12:32 pm) |
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Replying to: leadfoot429 (Oct 01, 2009 12:32 pm)
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Replying to: zaken1 (Oct 01, 2009 8:17 pm)
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Replying to: leadfoot429 (Oct 02, 2009 2:31 pm) But in my lifelong career as a diagnostic specialist, plus also having owned a Geo Metro for the last 17 years; I have repeatedly found that things are often not quite as clear as they seem to be. And all too often; people dismiss perfectly valid possibilities I suggest because they have not had enough experience to see how they can be so. Since I don't know anything about your experience or abilities; I'll start by giving you the benefit of the doubt. So I'll not challenge that anything you claimed is not correct, just yet. Instead, I'll list those things which fit with your description; which could still be issues. The first one is compression: Just because the head was freshly redone doesn't mean that the cam timing has not slipped, or the belt tensioner is not too loose. So I'm respectfully asking you to run a compression check on the motor, at this time (even if you already ran one two days ago). I need to see the actual numbers; not just whether it "passed" or not. Low compression cylinders on a Japanese motor will often only have a noticeable effect on the idle. The second possibility; if the ignition timing had been adjusted without having first disabled the electronic advance (by following the manufacturer's instructions about shorting the check connector terminals); the actual timing would come out way too retarded. And that would both screw up the fuel economy and the idle. The third unmentioned possibility that fits within what you wrote is that the EGR valve is sticking partly open. This would create a massive vacuum leak at idle; which would go away when the throttle was opened beyond idle. So I suggest removing the EGR valve, and thoroughly cleaning the carbon out of it; and then working the diaphragm through its full travel by hand; to make sure it closes completely every time you let go of the diaphragm. Then confirm that the EGR valve is not receiving a vacuum signal at idle; by disconnecting and plugging the EGR vacuum hose, and seeing if this changes the idle behavior. The fourth possibility is that the fuel injector is not closing completely, or the O-ring under the injector has deteriorated; and as a result, fuel from the injector is pouring into the motor when it should be spraying just a fine mist. And both a sticking EGR valve and a sticking or leaking injector would ruin the fuel economy. The fifth possibility is that someone has disturbed the factory sealed throttle stop setting on the throttle body; and has set the stop too far closed. This would be compounded if the idle air bypass screw has also been closed too far. And that, too, would mess up both the economy and the idle. Sixth; if the throttle position sensor adjustment had been set way too rich (too far clockwise); it would do the same thing. But if you have run ALL of the above tests and none of the above points are valid here; then I would say that, even though the spark plugs look good to your eye, and you think that the distributor cap would not be the problem if the motor ran good above idle (by the way; my definition of "running bad" includes getting abnormally poor mileage, even when it 'seems' to be running well) please give ME the benefit of the doubt; and install a new set of Autolite # 63 spark plugs (NO NGK'S HERE, PLEASE) and a new NAPA distributor cap. Thank you.
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Replying to: zaken1 (Oct 02, 2009 7:37 pm)
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Replying to: leadfoot429 (Oct 03, 2009 7:01 pm) One other thing that could cause the cam timing to be off, while the belt is tight and the marks appear to be lined up, would be if the woodruff key that locks the crank gear to the crankshaft has been sheared off; or was not in place when the timing belt was installed. I hope this is helpful. |
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In 1996 Geo Metro 4 cyl. LSI 1.3 liter what could be cause for oil in air filter chamber and leak from there? And once you tell us what could be cause what is the solution for that? Car has 134K miles on it? does it indicate motor needs to be rebuilt? Someone suggested to use sea foam and some one suggested to change PCV valve? Some one else said leaking head valves. How much it should cost to fix this?
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