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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
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Replying to: annielulu (Jul 26, 2009 12:16 am) The coil specification is not nearly as critical or restricted as your message implies. Virtually ANY 12 volt coil that has a 1.0-1.2 ohm primary, and is intended for electronic ignition applications will work on your car. I have used literally dozens of different types of coils on Metros; which work just fine. In the Rock auto site; both the Airtex # 5C1069 or the AC Delco # E536 would be suitable. Basically, any coil listed for US model 1993 Metro LSI convertibles will work. And these coils will all look like a tin can, with the high voltage terminal and the two primary terminals together on the same end. The only listings which are not suitable are the ones for the Canadian models or the non convertible US models. And that difference will be very obvious; because the unsuitable coils will be more oval than cylindrical, will have an external metal core surrounding the coil, and will have the high voltage terminal on the opposite end of the coil from the primary terminals; with the primary terminals located inside a plug that will not match with your harness wires. Now, there are other types of tin can style coils which are not suitable for the Metro; but they would not be listed as replacements for that vehicle. I believe that you already replaced the coil with a new one some time ago. If you think the parts clerk sold you a coil that was not intended for the Metro, and you can post all the numbers and markings, and brand information printed on the coil; I'll probably be able to confirm whether or not it is suitable. I understand that you have checked everything you could possibly think of; but you must bear in mind that you are dealing with electronic parts here, which cannot be checked without meters and test equipment. Because you do not have this equipment, there are many items in the electrical system that you are not able to check. And it is certainly among those items where the problem lies. Electricity may not be visible; but problems with this invisible force still can prevent the car from running, even when the parts physically look just great. Did the EVERYTHING that you have checked include the distributor pick up coil, and the ignition module, and what about the test I suggested for bypassing the ignition switch??? Pardon my skepticism; but since you are not skilled in this area, I would at least need to know the details of what you did, explained as completely as possible, in order to confirm in my own mind that each of these items is not the source of the problem. My experience has been that people all too frequently test an electronic component by performing some sort of rudimentary electical test that is either inappropriate, inconclusive, or is improperly applied; and then become totally confident that they have eliminated that part as the source of the problem. And that is why I am requesting full and complete disclosure. |
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Hello, I have a 93 geo metro; last week, the water temp was reading normal until I gave it some gas. The water temp guage redlined and I took my foot off the gas, water temp drops back to normal. Luckily only a block from home; it does the same thing in reverse. Have repalced the thermostat, check all the fuses, flushed the radiator and have good even flow. I'm thinking now it must be elecrtical, but I'm not sure if I need to relace the coolant temp sensor, or the temp switch or what I should do. Thanks for any help!
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Replying to: artcarclaire (Aug 02, 2009 2:31 pm) Are you sure you have good flow through the whole system? How fast does the temp change? If its only a few seconds, I'd suspect a bad electrical ground connection somewhere. Steve B.
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Replying to: artcarclaire (Aug 02, 2009 2:31 pm) 2> The cooling system is filled with 100% pure coolant; instead of the 50-50 mixture of coolant and distilled water which it is designed to use. Pure undiluted coolant cannot transfer heat well, and thus must have water mixed with it, in order for it to be able to transfer the amount of heat which the engine generates when it accelerates. 3>The electric radiator fan has stopped working; which leaves the engine on the verge of overheating whenever you accelerate. You should be able to hear and see the fan run whenever the temperature gauge goes above about 3/4 of the way up. If the fan does not run when the engine gets that hot, the cooling fan relay has probably failed. That relay is located on the front edge of the underhood fuse box; near the fender on the drivers side, between the battery and the shock tower. 4> The head gasket has been damaged by the engine previously overheating; and now leaks hot combustion gases into the cooling system whenever the engine accelerates. This can be confirmed or disproved by connecting a cooling system pressure tester to the radiator neck, and watching the pressure gauge when the engine is accelerated. If the pressure in the cooling system increases significantly under acceleration; the head gasket is probably leaking. There is also another test for a blown head gasket; which involves drawing air from inside the radiator up through a vial containing a chemical which changes color in the presence of combustion gases. And an infra red emissions analyzer can also identify a leaking head gasket; by detecting hydrocarbons in the air inside the radiator. If the head gasket is leaking; the cylinder head will have to be removed, and the head surface checked for warpage and the entire head checked for cracks. The head will often require remachining to make the sealing surface flat again. And if the motor has over 50,000 miles on it; the valves probably should also be reground. If a head gasket is replaced on an engine which has a warped head; the new gasket will leak, and the engine will continue to overheat. |
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Replying to: annielulu (Jul 26, 2009 12:16 am) I'm sorry it sometimes takes so long for me to get new insights; but that's just the way my mind works these days. There is another test you can do for free, which will determine whether the distributor pick up coil is the source of your problem (and I do believe that is the most likely issue at this time): Try push starting the car in second gear; by either having at least three healthy people push it by hand as fast as they can on a level or downhill slope, and engaging the clutch when the car is going at their maximum speed; or pushing it with another car, with a tire wedged as a cushion between the bumper of the push car and yours. Make sure the key is turned to the position where the dashboard warning lights are lit while you do. If the car starts, and does not subsequently restart with the starter; the distributor pick up coil is definitely bad. If you have not done the ignition switch bypass test through the cigarette lighter plug, as I previously explained; the start contacts in the ignition switch may be an alternate source of the problem. But if you did test the ignition switch by the method I suggested, and the car did not start at that time; then the distributor pick up coil is the only remaining possibility. I hope this helps!!! Joel |
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Replying to: senormechanico (Aug 02, 2009 5:02 pm) I am guessing that there is good flow; what I meant by that was, after a flush, the upper and lower hoses and the radiator were all heating up together, no cold spots in the radiator. The temp gauge will redline within a few seconds of applying gas, but it will drop to normal level just a quick after I let off the gas. Also, this doesn't happen when I rev the engine in neutral, only in gear. In neutral, the temp guage doesn't jump. Based off the post with suggestions after yours: It does not seem that the radiator is pulling from the reservior. I ran the car with the radiator cap off to get out the air; it is air free (from what I can tell) and still not pulling from the reservior. The fan is not kicking on, but I'm not getting the gauge over 1/2 just letting it idle, or reving the engine. The radiator fluid is mixed 50/50, I double checked that today. I'm hoping that helps, looking forward to any other suggestions. |
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Zaken 1: OK, finally found the problem. Underneath the fuel injector there is a little O ring that the injector sits on. Well, that stupid little ring was split from wear, so that the fuel supply was getting messed up. When the ring was replaced, the fuel got straightened out-we were able to put the fuel fuse in again and it started. However, I think that raw gas was slowly seeping into the pan after running down the cylinder walls slowly over a period of time. This resulted in a thinning of the oil so consequently I now have a rod bearing knock, but the car starts and runs ok now. From what I can ascertain, we can install 3 new rod bearings pretty simply by dropping the pan to install them. There doesn't appear to be anything major in the way to access the bearings. I wish to thank you very much for all of the help you offered. You put a lot of time into your suggestions, and I truly appreciate your help.
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Replying to: annielulu (Aug 12, 2009 7:59 pm) I'm delighted to hear that you found the problem!!! I would just like to suggest that I doubt the rod bearings were damaged by the diluted oil. So I believe that if you change the oil and filter, and then drive it a little, the knock should go away. A knock could also be caused if the ignition timing has been changed to an incorrect setting. |
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Well, I changed the oil and filter, 20W-50 grade oil, plus put in 16 oz or so of something called "Lucas Oil Stabilizer" and drove it around the block for about 5-10 minutes, but the knock was still there, it seemed to abate somewhat, and it gets quieter when accelerating and louder when just idling. Do you think it might get better over time? Not only that, but I now need a new starter or solenoid combo, as after all the trying to start it, the solenoid is acting up. I had to push it and pop the clutch to get it going. I wonder if I take off the starter, if somehow i can fix the solenoid. If I have to put in the rod bearings, I will. I do like the Metro, and when it does perform right, it is a great little car.
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Replying to: annielulu (Aug 12, 2009 10:48 pm) You can often distinguish between timing belt tensioner and valve train noises by holding your ear against the end of a broomstick, stethoscope or a wooden rod, while touching the other end to various parts of the engine, and listening carefully to hear where the noise is loudest. Timing belt tensioner noises would be most pronounced when touching the middle of the timing belt cover. Valve train noises would be loudest at the valve cover or the side of the cylinder head between the spark plugs (and this is where a non metallic rod is essential for safety). If the starter solenoid is defective, it cannot be fixed, but can be replaced. I hate to admit it; but I have forgotten whether this starter has a built in or a removable solenoid. I think it is integrated into the starter. Here again, perhaps it is not in the starter itself; but may be something as simple as a poor ground connection for a battery cable, corroded or loose battery cable clamps, or a loose wire from the ignition switch at the starter. It also might be a defective ignition switch or clutch pedal switch; so don't assume it is in the starter without proving it by trying to activate the starter with a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the tab on the starter where the wire from the ignition switch normally connects. |
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