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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
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Replying to: annielulu (Jul 02, 2009 1:04 pm) So, if you can find a Chevy dealer who has not gone out of business, and who can confirm that the correct part is either in stock or is currently available through their warehouse; you might (but not always) be able to get it for a better price. |
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Replying to: annielulu (Jul 02, 2009 1:04 pm) I just had another inspiration about a way around your problem: Although it is not possible to bypass the ignition switch with a jumper, it may be possible to power the coil and the ignition system from one of the other circuits in your existing switch. The ignition switch usually has multiple independent sets of contacts in it; some are just used for accessories, and would still be in relatively good condition. They would be easily capable of supplying the required amount of power. My thought is to find an accessory circuit underneath the hood that can be tapped into; and test it on my car to see if it can substitute for the normal ignition circuit. I used to do this kind of asset reallocation all the time on old Chevys; when an ignition switch went out. I don't know for sure whether this will work on a Metro; but I'm willing to check it out and give you the details, if it turns out to be viable. But I first need to know whether the information would still be useful to you. So please let me know. Thanks! |
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Zaken1 Thank you. Yes, this info on the ignition switch would be appreciated.
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Replying to: annielulu (Jul 07, 2009 9:15 am) You'll need an electrical plug which fits into the lighter socket. If you already have one which is expendable; just cut the other end of the cord off of whatever device it now goes to. You can also buy a new plug at Radio Shack. They have a plug that comes with 2 or 3 feet of wire attached to it, and nothing on the other end. That item is carried under their part # 273-1818. You will also need a length of stranded, 14 or 16 gauge, single conductor electrical wire; which is long enough to reach from the cigarette lighter, through the firewall, to the coil. A ten foot length should be more than adequate. Radio Shack probably sells rolls of that wire; but a good hardware store will probably sell it in bulk (so you can buy only as much as you need; rather than having to buy a whole roll). Sometimes short lengths of wire in pre-packaged rolls is shockingly expensive; compared to the cost of the same type of wire in bulk. You can also use two conductor wire, if it is more readily obtainable; and just tie both conductors together. But you CANNOT tie the wires from the plug together. Only one of those wires will work; and if you either tie those two plug wires together, or use the wrong wire from the plug, it could potentally DAMAGE parts or blow fuses. So please heed the instructions below about identifying the right wire from the plug. Similarly, the wire from the plug will have to be spliced to the length of wire you buy. The professional way to splice wire is to strip the insulation off the ends, solder them together, and insulate the joint with heat shrink tubing. But that requires soldering equipment, shrink tubing, and a heat gun. A less expensive, but still acceptable way to splice wire is to strip the two ends and use wire nuts to securely twist them together. Wire nuts are made to fit different wire sizes. They cost about five to fifteen cents apiece. A third way to splice wire is to use a butt splice connector. This is a double ended metal connector encased in a plastic insulating sleeve. The ends of the wires are stripped and inserted into the ends of the connector. The connector is then securely crimped onto the wire. This creates a secure, insulated joint. Butt splice connectors cost less than a dollar (at least they ought to). The plug for the cigarette lighter socket will have two wires coming from it. One of those wires comes from the pin in the center of the plug's nose. That is the hot wire; which is the one you should connect to the long wire you buy. The other wire from the plug comes from the contacts on the side of the plug body. That is the ground wire; which should not be connected to anything. It probably will not be apparent from looking at the plug which wire is the hot one. If you have a test light or meter; you can connect one lead from the light or meter to a known good ground, and the other lead to each of the wires from the plug in succession; while the key is on and the plug is inserted in the socket. The wire that lights the light or shows voltage on the meter is the hot wire. If you don't have a test light or a meter; the nice clerk at Radio Shack may be willing to demonstrate one of their meters by setting the meter to the resistance scale; connecting one meter lead to the pin at the center of the plug's nose, and touching the other meter lead to each of the two wires from the plug. The wire that produces a reading of continuity (zero ohms resistance) with the center pin is the hot wire. The ground wire will read infinite resistance. You should promptly tie a knot in the hot wire, or wrap a piece of tape around it; so it cannot be mistaken later. The best place to run the wire through the firewall is where the speedometer cable passes through the firewall, in the center of a large rubber grommet. The speedometer cable is located just to the left of, and a little lower than the brake fluid reservoir; when looking at the firewall while standing in front of the car. It is easy to poke a screwdriver through the soft grommet alongside the cable. That will open up a channel where the wire can be fed through. I recommend feeding the wire through the firewall from the engine compartment side; rather than trying to reach the grommet from underneath the dashboard. If you keep feeding the wire through the grommet; it will eventually become visible inside the car. Then you can grab it and pull in to the desired location. If this arrangement becomes a permanent part of the car, I would recommend using plastic wire ties to secure the wire so that it doesn't get tangled in feet or moving parts. After connecting the wire in the passenger compartment to the hot wire from the cigarette lighter plug, pull the excess length back into the engine compartment. Then run the wire over to the igniton coil and cut it to a length where it reaches easily, but isn't so long that it is awkward. Some time ago, I suggested that you try reversing the positions of the two wires on the coil. If you haven't yet put them back where they originally were; this is the time to do so. Similarly, the fuel pump fuse should now be in place. The spark plugs which previously had the gap reduced to .030" should now either be regapped to .040" or replaced with the previous set of E3 plugs. The new wire you have run to the coil should be connected on top of the original wire at the coil "+" terminal. The best way to do this is to connect and crimp a ring terminal to the stripped end of the new wire. However, if someone previously connected the wires backwards to the coil; adding the new wire on top of the wrong "+" wire could cause damage or blow a fuse. If you have any concern that this may have happened; one way to verify the wire positions is that if one of the original wires is heavier than the other, the heavier wire should be the "+" wire. If both wires are the same diameter, you could check the color code against a wiring diagram; or tell me which color wire goes to which terminal. Better to be safe than sorry. |
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Zaken1 Thank you. You have put a lot of time into my problems. I really appreciate it. I'll give you an update. |
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I'm trying to replace my rear catalytic converter on my base-model 1.0L 2000 Metro hatchback. The problem is all the ones online that claim to be "direct fits" for my model look nothing like mine! Mine, front to rear, consists of: (1) 15" of pipe preceded by a bolt-on end that matches the pipe before it; (2) 13" cylindrical conveter; and (3) about 3" of raw pipe that slides into the pipe after it and is clamped there. The ones online have either no pipe on either end, or have way-too-long pipes on one end that curve and don't have the bolt-on. Plus, the converters themselves are more rounded rectangular blocks than cylinders. Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve in Florida
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Replying to: alniter (Jul 10, 2009 9:10 am)
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Replying to: zaken1 (Jul 10, 2009 10:07 am) Steve in Florida
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Replying to: alniter (Jul 10, 2009 10:27 am) |
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I know I have seen this on one of the forums, but can't seem to find in in search. 1996 Metro G10 runs perfectly, EXCEPT..... Idle surges under electrical load such as blower fan or headlights. Idle jumps up to 2000 RPM and drops to 1500 Rpm about once a second for 8 or 10 cycles, then returns to normal idle until the throttle is opened even slightly- then repeats. It does this when driving whenever the pedal is slacked off during deceleration, resulting in a rather unnerving pulsation, as if one was tapping on the accelerator pedal. Troubleshooting charts don't seem to address this adequately, so if someone can steer me in the right direction I would be very grateful. TIA
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