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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: shaggyman1 (Jun 03, 2009 4:16 pm) If these vacuum controls were not in place; the engine would stall as soon as the EGR valve opened. I seriously doubt that the throttle body is defective. It is a very simple mechanical device, which rarely has problems. What I think is far more likely is that the vacuum hoses are incorrectly routed, the ISC valve may not be connected properly or may be defective, or some vacuum controls may be bypassed or missing, and/or the throttle stop, idle air bypass screw, and TPS are improperly adjusted. Also, if you still have the wrong model (automatic transmission type) of TPS on the car; I would not expect it to be able to run properly until that part was replaced. I also want to point out that the air temperature sensor in the air filter assembly must be plugged in to the wiring harness; even if the air filter assembly is not being used at the time. If the IAT sensor is not plugged in, the engine will run way too rich. |
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Replying to: alniter (Jun 08, 2009 4:47 pm) The best source for this part would be an auto wrecking yard. When I lived in Florida, there were two auto wreckers I used to use for Geo Metro parts. One was in Bradenton, and was called Pick Your Part (or something similar). The other was in Saint Cloud; called St. Cloud Auto Wreckers. I expect that this part would be the same on many different years of Metros; perhaps going as far back as 1989. |
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Replying to: annielulu (Jun 03, 2009 2:46 pm) The fact that there was 2 or 3 ounces of fuel in the can is not at all convincing. The proper way to test it is to have someone watch the end of the hose while you crank the engine. These should be a strong stream of fuel that shoots out of the hose. I would expect it to be strong enough to easily squirt a distance of 5 feet horizontally. It is the fuel PRESSURE, as well as the volume, which is important here. Since you don't have a pressure gauge, seeing how far the stream will carry horizontally is the best way to gauge the condition of the pump and filter. If it just runs out; but won't squirt a good distance; that suggests the filter is probably restricted. And that can prevent the engine from starting. |
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Can someone please help me with my '91 Metro? What is the proper way to set the ignition timing? I just replaced the head gasket and although it now runs OK it is "pinging" pretty bad under a load.
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My '91 Geo Metro drivers side window just fell off the track! I put it back on but now it is very hard to roll up and down. I think the regulator might be bad. I looked online but noticed that the drivers side regulators are hard to find...any help?
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Replying to: samcro (Jun 13, 2009 6:28 am)  .040" are the preferred plug for the Metro. The NGKs that all the stores carry are the WORST possible choice. And some of those expensive specialty plugs are also very bad in this engine. 2> Engine thermostat defective or of too high a temperature. The stock Metro thermostat is 192 degrees F, but many Metros run better with a 180 degree thermostat. 3> Cooling system that was incorrectly filled with 100% pure coolant, instead of it being mixed 50-50 with distilled water, or the radiator having not been refilled after the engine was run a few times and the inevitable trapped air worked its way out; leaving the radiator level LOW. Too many people do not realize that; once the siphon action between the radiator and the reservoir has been interrupted (by air getting into the system); you cannot trust the coolant level in the reservior to show whether the radiator level is down. It is absolutely necessary to open the radiator cap and directly fill it there, whenever there has been air in the system. 4> If you had the head resurfaced when it was off, and they took more than .020" of material off it; the compression ratio would increase to the point that you couldn't use the stock ignition timing. It would then have to be retarded 4 to 6 degrees from the stock 6 degree BTDC setting. So the timing would end up at between 2 degrees and 0 degrees BTDC. The ignition timing is checked by connecting a timing light to the plug wire for # 1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to the fan belt); and disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hoses to BOTH vacuum advance diaphragms (on engines with vacuum advance distributors). Only on XFI models, and later Metro models which do not have vacuum advance; it is necessary to short the appropriate terminals in the check connector, which is located next to the firewall on the drivers side of the engine compartment, in the corner where the firewall meets the inner fender, in order to check and adjust the timing. The emission label on the underside of the hood will have the necessary instructions for this procedure. After applying the instructions in the above paragraph; with the engine idling at normal operating temperature, shine the timing light on the lower crankshaft pulley, and the adjacent timing scale built into the timing belt cover. The scale reads from 0 degrees BTDC (on the right edge) to 20 degrees BTDC (on the left edge). Each line on the scale indicates 2 degrees. There is a small notch in the edge of the pulley closest to the engine; which should line up with the the 6 degree BTDC mark (the third line to the left of the zero line). If the notch is not easily visible; mark it with white or yellow chalk. If the mark is not aligned with the 6 degree line; loosen the two 12mm distributor hold down bolts enough to permit the distributor to be rotated, and turn the distributor until the marks line up at the desired location. Then tighten the distributor bolts and recheck the timing. If the engine still pings excessively at 6 degrees advance; try retarding the timing closer to the 0 mark. It will also help if you use premium fuel. |
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Replying to: samcro (Jun 13, 2009 6:35 am) the side and top. This dries out because of weather and the smog. I found mine at a dealership in las vegas of all places. The Drivers side window obviously gets the most wear. |
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Newbie here...Hi everyone. I bought my metro used about a year ago. Of course when the guy sold it to me it ran just great. Still does, but about half the time when I start her up she squeals real loud, enough to send all the cats in the neighborhood running! It usually stops squealing after I drive for about 2 to 10 minutes. I have had the alternator and water pump belts changed last autumn and it seemed to help for awhile. The old ones were all ground up. The engine block it seems to have a small oil leak right above the first spark plug on the left side, which I have to add oil about once a month (maybe about 1/2 qt.) The A/C has been taken out of the car before I got it, so that is a non-problem. Anyone have any ideas what this squealing could be? |
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Replying to: carol54 (Jun 19, 2009 1:15 pm) The only satisfactory solution is to thoroughly clean the oil and debris off the pulleys, use only a Goodyear Gatorback belt; and to tighten it to the point where the slipping stops. You can expect the belt to stretch and need readjustment during the first month or so of use; but it should settle down after that. Be aware that there are THREE mounting bolts for the alternator (two on the bottom, and one on top). If someone does not tighten ALL of those bolts, the alternator will wiggle in its mounts and then will work loose. If the oil leak you refer to is located underneath the oil filler cap (which would be on the left side of the engine if viewed from the driver's seat) then it probably comes from not wiping the oil off the engine and the underside of the cap before putting the cap back on; and/or not tightening the oil cap adequately. If the leak is on the left side of the engine when viewed from the front; then the valve cover gasket should be removed, the engine mating surface thoroughly cleaned, and the new gasket sealed properly with gray formula RTV silicone gasket sealer before installation. |
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