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#1599 of 1692 Re: Distributor Broken [zaken1] by shaggyman1 Jun 03, 2009 (4:16 pm)
Replying to: zaken1 (May 30, 2009 6:57 pm) Zaken you were right on the money about the pickup coil- got another dizzy that Ohmed out correctly and sparks are flying! Now to get a throttle body....In checking some of the vacuum functions, I came upon the line from the TB to theEGR which is drawing NO vaccum at all, and the only way I can get it to start is to pull off another (live) line, and goose the throttle stop up to make it 'idle' at 1700 RPM (below which it dies), and if I put the vacuum line back or block it with my finger it immediately dies. I think this funky TB is absolutely the root of all my woes- explains why I could never get the TPS and idle motor to behave, the flooding at startup, the ...etc. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 08, 2009 7:35 pm)
#1600 of 1692 What's that Black Thing Called? by alniter Jun 08, 2009 (4:47 pm)
Hi all,       While replacing the drivers' side mirror on my 2000 Metro base 2-dr hatchback, the pegs broke on the black plastic triangular piece that covers the mirror bolts on the inside of the car. No luck finding it online, probably because I don't know what to call it! Any clues? There's a number inside it (LH 1405353) but it hasn't helped yet.   Cheers, Steve in Florida Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 08, 2009 7:52 pm)
#1601 of 1692 Re: Distributor Broken [shaggyman1] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (7:35 pm)
Replying to: shaggyman1 (Jun 03, 2009 4:16 pm) The EGR valve is not supposed to get vacuum while the engine is idling; so the EGR vacuum line comes from a port which is higher on the carb body than the position where the edge of the throttle valve rests at idle. (that is called ported vacuum). There are also two additional vacuum controls which should be in the line between the vacuum port and the EGR valve. The first one is called an EGR VSV (vacuum switching valve). This is an electrically actuated valve, which switches the vacuum to the EGR valve on and off, according to the throttle position, the air/fuel ratio, the coolant temperature, and the engine RPM. If the vacuum is allowed by the VSV to pass through it; it then goes through a device called an EGR BPT (exhaust back pressure transducer). The BPT restricts the vacuum to the EGR at light engine loads, so the amount of recycled exhaust gas doesn't excessively lean out the mixture;.but it then allows more vacuum to reach the EGR valve as the engine load is increased.   If these vacuum controls were not in place; the engine would stall as soon as the EGR valve opened.   I seriously doubt that the throttle body is defective. It is a very simple mechanical device, which rarely has problems. What I think is far more likely is that the vacuum hoses are incorrectly routed, the ISC valve may not be connected properly or may be defective, or some vacuum controls may be bypassed or missing, and/or the throttle stop, idle air bypass screw, and TPS are improperly adjusted. Also, if you still have the wrong model (automatic transmission type) of TPS on the car; I would not expect it to be able to run properly until that part was replaced.   I also want to point out that the air temperature sensor in the air filter assembly must be plugged in to the wiring harness; even if the air filter assembly is not being used at the time. If the IAT sensor is not plugged in, the engine will run way too rich.
#1602 of 1692 Re: What's that Black Thing Called? [alniter] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (7:52 pm)
Replying to: alniter (Jun 08, 2009 4:47 pm) I don't know what that black thing is officially called; but it is something I would not expect to see online. Parts like that are typically only available from dealers; because they are such slow sellers that aftermarket sources do not want to bother with them.   The best source for this part would be an auto wrecking yard. When I lived in Florida, there were two auto wreckers I used to use for Geo Metro parts. One was in Bradenton, and was called Pick Your Part (or something similar). The other was in Saint Cloud; called St. Cloud Auto Wreckers. I expect that this part would be the same on many different years of Metros; perhaps going as far back as 1989.
#1603 of 1692 Re: Metro LSI [annielulu] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (8:03 pm)
Replying to: annielulu (Jun 03, 2009 2:46 pm) Sorry I haven't gotten back sooner; the automatic message notification system seems to have quit again.   The fact that there was 2 or 3 ounces of fuel in the can is not at all convincing. The proper way to test it is to have someone watch the end of the hose while you crank the engine. These should be a strong stream of fuel that shoots out of the hose. I would expect it to be strong enough to easily squirt a distance of 5 feet horizontally. It is the fuel PRESSURE, as well as the volume, which is important here. Since you don't have a pressure gauge, seeing how far the stream will carry horizontally is the best way to gauge the condition of the pump and filter. If it just runs out; but won't squirt a good distance; that suggests the filter is probably restricted. And that can prevent the engine from starting.
#1604 of 1692 '91 geo metro ignition timing by samcro Jun 13, 2009 (6:28 am)
Can someone please help me with my '91 Metro? What is the proper way to set the ignition timing? I just replaced the head gasket and although it now runs OK it is "pinging" pretty bad under a load. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 13, 2009 11:35 am)
#1605 of 1692 Geo Metro drivers window by samcro Jun 13, 2009 (6:35 am)
My '91 Geo Metro drivers side window just fell off the track! I put it back on but now it is very hard to roll up and down. I think the regulator might be bad. I looked online but noticed that the drivers side regulators are hard to find...any help? Replies to this message: ggeeoo (Jun 14, 2009 2:13 pm)
#1606 of 1692 Re: '91 geo metro ignition timing [samcro] by zaken1 Jun 13, 2009 (11:35 am)
Replying to: samcro (Jun 13, 2009 6:28 am) Pinging can be caused by other things besides incorrect ignition timing. The most significant other causes are 1> Spark plugs which are either gapped too wide, or are too hot in heat range, or are a brand which is not suitable for this engine design. Autolite #63 plugs, gapped .040" are the preferred plug for the Metro. The NGKs that all the stores carry are the WORST possible choice. And some of those expensive specialty plugs are also very bad in this engine. 2> Engine thermostat defective or of too high a temperature. The stock Metro thermostat is 192 degrees F, but many Metros run better with a 180 degree thermostat. 3> Cooling system that was incorrectly filled with 100% pure coolant, instead of it being mixed 50-50 with distilled water, or the radiator having not been refilled after the engine was run a few times and the inevitable trapped air worked its way out; leaving the radiator level LOW. Too many people do not realize that; once the siphon action between the radiator and the reservoir has been interrupted (by air getting into the system); you cannot trust the coolant level in the reservior to show whether the radiator level is down. It is absolutely necessary to open the radiator cap and directly fill it there, whenever there has been air in the system. 4> If you had the head resurfaced when it was off, and they took more than .020" of material off it; the compression ratio would increase to the point that you couldn't use the stock ignition timing. It would then have to be retarded 4 to 6 degrees from the stock 6 degree BTDC setting. So the timing would end up at between 2 degrees and 0 degrees BTDC.   The ignition timing is checked by connecting a timing light to the plug wire for # 1 cylinder (the cylinder closest to the fan belt); and disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hoses to BOTH vacuum advance diaphragms (on engines with vacuum advance distributors). Only on XFI models, and later Metro models which do not have vacuum advance; it is necessary to short the appropriate terminals in the check connector, which is located next to the firewall on the drivers side of the engine compartment, in the corner where the firewall meets the inner fender, in order to check and adjust the timing. The emission label on the underside of the hood will have the necessary instructions for this procedure.   After applying the instructions in the above paragraph; with the engine idling at normal operating temperature, shine the timing light on the lower crankshaft pulley, and the adjacent timing scale built into the timing belt cover. The scale reads from 0 degrees BTDC (on the right edge) to 20 degrees BTDC (on the left edge). Each line on the scale indicates 2 degrees. There is a small notch in the edge of the pulley closest to the engine; which should line up with the the 6 degree BTDC mark (the third line to the left of the zero line). If the notch is not easily visible; mark it with white or yellow chalk. If the mark is not aligned with the 6 degree line; loosen the two 12mm distributor hold down bolts enough to permit the distributor to be rotated, and turn the distributor until the marks line up at the desired location. Then tighten the distributor bolts and recheck the timing.   If the engine still pings excessively at 6 degrees advance; try retarding the timing closer to the 0 mark. It will also help if you use premium fuel.
#1608 of 1692 Re: Geo Metro drivers window [samcro] by ggeeoo Jun 14, 2009 (2:13 pm)
Replying to: samcro (Jun 13, 2009 6:35 am) The window is hard to rise because the track is worn this is the rubber channel on the side and top. This dries out because of weather and the smog. I found mine at a dealership in las vegas of all places. The Drivers side window obviously gets the most wear.

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