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#1596 of 1692 Re: Metro LSI [annielulu] by zaken1 Jun 03, 2009 (1:07 am)
Replying to: annielulu (Jun 02, 2009 11:45 pm) I am now confused by the information you posted about the new belt. First of all; I assume you mean a new timing belt, rather than a new alternator/water pump belt. You don't have to retime an engine after changing the alternator/water pump belt; because that belt has no effect on the ignition or valve timing.   But when you install a timing belt; it is not accurate enough to just turn the cam sprocket so that the distributor rotor points straight up; while the crank pulley lines up with the TDC mark!!! This is nowhere near precise enough for valve timing. It is all too easy to make an error in judging which angle of the rotor is really straight up. The test I suggested earlier about lining up the timing marks and then looking at the rotor position is only useful for finding out whether the belt has grossly slipped or broken. It is not accurate enough to use for setting up a new belt installation.   In order to avoid such errors; it is first necessary to align the timing mark on the lower sprocket (inside the timing cover) with the pointer that is directly above that sprocket; and AT THE SAME TIME, align the two marks on the sides of the cam sprocket with the top edge of the casting for the cylinder head (which will place the two marks on the cam sprocket parallel to the top edge of the head). The belt tensioner spring should then be installed and given a little hand pressure assistance to pull the belt tight; and the tensioner adjustment bolt and tensioner mounting bolt should then BOTH be properly tightened. The engine should then be rotated at least one or two revolutions with the starter; and the alignment of the marks on the sprockets then rechecked.. This is necessary to confirm that the marks are still correctly aligned. Even being just one tooth off will mess up the way the motor runs. So will having the belt tension set too loose. It is all too easy to make an error in aligning those marks when the belt is first installed. If you did not use that procedure when you installed the timing belt; I would strongly recommend pulling the timing cover and rechecking the belt tension and the alignment of the marks, according to what I wrote here.   I don't remember which fuel hose is the supply and which is the return. If you pull one hose, and nothing comes out when you turn the key on; it is either the return hose, or the pump or filter are bad. If you then pull the second hose, and nothing comes out of it, either; it is definitely a clogged filter or bad pump.   Regarding priming the fuel system; this should NOT be necessary in a fuel injected engine. If the fuel pump and filter are good; the electronics will do the rest. And if the plugs are getting wet when you crank the engine; this proves it is getting fuel. The only time it is appropriate to prime a fuel injected engine is when you've concluded the fuel system is broken; and want to confirm that it will fire or run if you add some fuel externally. Two ounces is an appropriate quantity to add. The throttle butterfly should be briefly opened during or after the time the fuel is poured in; to let the fuel into the manifold. Then hold the throttle just barely open while cranking.   The air temperature sensor in the air filter housing must be plugged into the wiring harness when you try to start the motor. Otherwise, it will make the mixture too rich. But the housing can be placed anywhere the wires will reach; and the actual air filter does not have to be in place. The PCV valve must also be connected to its supply hose, and be plugged into the manifold.
#1597 of 1692 Metro LSI by annielulu Jun 03, 2009 (12:45 pm)
Thanks Zaken1.   A friend of mine with mechanical aptitude put the new timing belt on. It ran very well for a few days, but then my current starting problem surfaced. So, I'm pretty sure the belt and timing is ok. I am going to try out the other things you suggested.   Thanks
#1598 of 1692 Metro LSI by annielulu Jun 03, 2009 (2:46 pm)
I took off a fuel line to check for fuel delivery. Standing in front of the car, the line that is in the front of the throttle body (not the one on the right side) is the one I took off. I put the end of it into a coffee can and cranked the engine. After just a few revolutions the can had a good deal of fuel in it, maybe about 1/4-1/3 of a cup or so. So I'm pretty sure that it is getting enough fuel. I suppose now that I can rule out the fuel pump and filter as being a problem. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 08, 2009 8:03 pm)
#1599 of 1692 Re: Distributor Broken [zaken1] by shaggyman1 Jun 03, 2009 (4:16 pm)
Replying to: zaken1 (May 30, 2009 6:57 pm) Zaken you were right on the money about the pickup coil- got another dizzy that Ohmed out correctly and sparks are flying! Now to get a throttle body....In checking some of the vacuum functions, I came upon the line from the TB to theEGR which is drawing NO vaccum at all, and the only way I can get it to start is to pull off another (live) line, and goose the throttle stop up to make it 'idle' at 1700 RPM (below which it dies), and if I put the vacuum line back or block it with my finger it immediately dies. I think this funky TB is absolutely the root of all my woes- explains why I could never get the TPS and idle motor to behave, the flooding at startup, the ...etc. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 08, 2009 7:35 pm)
#1600 of 1692 What's that Black Thing Called? by alniter Jun 08, 2009 (4:47 pm)
Hi all,       While replacing the drivers' side mirror on my 2000 Metro base 2-dr hatchback, the pegs broke on the black plastic triangular piece that covers the mirror bolts on the inside of the car. No luck finding it online, probably because I don't know what to call it! Any clues? There's a number inside it (LH 1405353) but it hasn't helped yet.   Cheers, Steve in Florida Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 08, 2009 7:52 pm)
#1601 of 1692 Re: Distributor Broken [shaggyman1] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (7:35 pm)
Replying to: shaggyman1 (Jun 03, 2009 4:16 pm) The EGR valve is not supposed to get vacuum while the engine is idling; so the EGR vacuum line comes from a port which is higher on the carb body than the position where the edge of the throttle valve rests at idle. (that is called ported vacuum). There are also two additional vacuum controls which should be in the line between the vacuum port and the EGR valve. The first one is called an EGR VSV (vacuum switching valve). This is an electrically actuated valve, which switches the vacuum to the EGR valve on and off, according to the throttle position, the air/fuel ratio, the coolant temperature, and the engine RPM. If the vacuum is allowed by the VSV to pass through it; it then goes through a device called an EGR BPT (exhaust back pressure transducer). The BPT restricts the vacuum to the EGR at light engine loads, so the amount of recycled exhaust gas doesn't excessively lean out the mixture;.but it then allows more vacuum to reach the EGR valve as the engine load is increased.   If these vacuum controls were not in place; the engine would stall as soon as the EGR valve opened.   I seriously doubt that the throttle body is defective. It is a very simple mechanical device, which rarely has problems. What I think is far more likely is that the vacuum hoses are incorrectly routed, the ISC valve may not be connected properly or may be defective, or some vacuum controls may be bypassed or missing, and/or the throttle stop, idle air bypass screw, and TPS are improperly adjusted. Also, if you still have the wrong model (automatic transmission type) of TPS on the car; I would not expect it to be able to run properly until that part was replaced.   I also want to point out that the air temperature sensor in the air filter assembly must be plugged in to the wiring harness; even if the air filter assembly is not being used at the time. If the IAT sensor is not plugged in, the engine will run way too rich.
#1602 of 1692 Re: What's that Black Thing Called? [alniter] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (7:52 pm)
Replying to: alniter (Jun 08, 2009 4:47 pm) I don't know what that black thing is officially called; but it is something I would not expect to see online. Parts like that are typically only available from dealers; because they are such slow sellers that aftermarket sources do not want to bother with them.   The best source for this part would be an auto wrecking yard. When I lived in Florida, there were two auto wreckers I used to use for Geo Metro parts. One was in Bradenton, and was called Pick Your Part (or something similar). The other was in Saint Cloud; called St. Cloud Auto Wreckers. I expect that this part would be the same on many different years of Metros; perhaps going as far back as 1989.
#1603 of 1692 Re: Metro LSI [annielulu] by zaken1 Jun 08, 2009 (8:03 pm)
Replying to: annielulu (Jun 03, 2009 2:46 pm) Sorry I haven't gotten back sooner; the automatic message notification system seems to have quit again.   The fact that there was 2 or 3 ounces of fuel in the can is not at all convincing. The proper way to test it is to have someone watch the end of the hose while you crank the engine. These should be a strong stream of fuel that shoots out of the hose. I would expect it to be strong enough to easily squirt a distance of 5 feet horizontally. It is the fuel PRESSURE, as well as the volume, which is important here. Since you don't have a pressure gauge, seeing how far the stream will carry horizontally is the best way to gauge the condition of the pump and filter. If it just runs out; but won't squirt a good distance; that suggests the filter is probably restricted. And that can prevent the engine from starting.
#1604 of 1692 '91 geo metro ignition timing by samcro Jun 13, 2009 (6:28 am)
Can someone please help me with my '91 Metro? What is the proper way to set the ignition timing? I just replaced the head gasket and although it now runs OK it is "pinging" pretty bad under a load. Replies to this message: zaken1 (Jun 13, 2009 11:35 am)
#1605 of 1692 Geo Metro drivers window by samcro Jun 13, 2009 (6:35 am)
My '91 Geo Metro drivers side window just fell off the track! I put it back on but now it is very hard to roll up and down. I think the regulator might be bad. I looked online but noticed that the drivers side regulators are hard to find...any help? Replies to this message: ggeeoo (Jun 14, 2009 2:13 pm)

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