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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1696 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 11:26 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Still attempting to get 95 1.0L to run right- see former posts... I think I have finally found the culprit, after replacing TB and about everything that attaches to it. As far as I can tell, this is the first time I have EVER seen this: The pole piece teeth have pieces broken off and sticking to the pickup coil, which is scarred and gouged! Under this condition spark would be erratic at best- no wonder starting and idling are crummy. Can't feel any wobble in the shaft, so I'm assuming that some know-it-all adjusted the pickup air gap to zero. Something to look for in a used car from now on....
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Replying to: annielulu (May 28, 2009 1:32 am) It could be possible to bypass the ignition switch; but it would require figuring out which terminals or wires to use; and probably taking the covers off the steering column. A wiring diagram would also be highly desirable in such a situation. A wiring diagram could be found at a good public library. There is one at a library in my area. But all this stuff is extremely time consuming; and potentially frustrating. So the question really comes down to whether saving the last possible cent is more important than saving your time and patience. A new ignition switch from Rock Auto online is about $200; but there are few enough wires in the harness that bypassing the switch is not too formidable a task. However; you would at least need a 12 volt test light; if not a meter. A new coil is $27 from Rock Auto online. I expect it is far more likely that the ignition switch is bad, rather than the coil; but I couldn't guarantee that. So please tell me how you want to deal with this: 1> Take it to a shop. 2> Buy a new coil because it is the cheapest option and hope it fixes it. 3> Buy a new ignition switch. 4> Buy a test light or a meter, and try bypassing the ignition switch; which may also require getting some soldering or crimping equipment and a wiring diagram. |
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Replying to: shaggyman1 (May 28, 2009 7:17 am)
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Replying to: zaken1 (May 28, 2009 10:21 am) I replaced the distributor (and cap & rotor for the third time!), and put in a new set of plugs. I get spark at all cylinders through either one or two rotations- then nothing. Same for coil- fires either 3 or 6 times, then squat. I suspect this might have been taking place for a while, as it would start when first pushed, but not while cranking. If it didn't start on the first clutch pop, it would refuse until ignition was cycled on and off. And it would not start in second- only first or reverse. Could the crankshaft rotation sensor have a dead spot, and only report rotation over 500 RPM or something? Maybe this is a Metro with a Gremlin......
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Zaken1 I'm going to try a new coil and see what happens. Thanks very much.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 28, 2009 12:50 pm) |
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Zaken1 Auto Zone here in Vegas has the coil in stock for $33.00 which I think is an ok price. I called Checker Auto and those guys wanted $97.00 and could not get it until 6/2. So I'm going to pick it up tomorrow at Auto Zone. Could you elucidate as to why the ignition switch might be the problem, based upon what I described to you about it. What are the workings of the switch and how would it impact starting. Thank you so much for all of your previous assistance.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 28, 2009 6:15 pm) I agree that the $33 is an OK price. But I'd like you to first make one simple test, which costs nothing; although you'll need a spark plug gap gauge and adjusting tool to do this. This test can only be done if your car does not have Bosch Platinum +2 or platinum +4 or Fusion plugs in it. I believe you said it now has Autolites; which will be fine for this test. Please take the plugs out; clean them if they are wet with fuel; and adjust the electrode gap to .030" (0.75mm). Then put them back in and try to start the car. If the car runs, you can leave the plugs gapped at .030". When you tell me what the result of the test was; I'll explain more about the coil and ignition switch. |
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Replying to: shaggyman1 (May 28, 2009 11:08 am) The symptom you describe; of getting sparks only on the first one or two crankshaft rotations; sounds like either a bad coil or a bad module. |
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Zaken1 The guy at the parts store sold me 3 new plugs that did not have to be gapped. I took the old ones out that were less than a year old (ones that had to be gapped) and replaced them with these new fangled ones, just to make sure it wasn't the plugs. I kind of wish I bought ones that had to be gapped, but it's too late now, unless you think I should change back. As far as the coil-I specifically told parts guy that it was a 1.0, 3 cylinder-convertible, and that was the price they gave me. If I have to get it, I will bring the old one with me when I pick up the new one, for comparison. You mentioned that you had an issue with the coil spark description that I related to you when tested. Can you explain your feelings on that and talk about the coil and ignition switch. This car is really starting to bug me. I really want to like it. I know you have had great luck with yours. As an aside, I read most of all of your old various posts, and thought maybe that it wouldn't start because I didn't have the seat belt engaged whenever I tried to start it. I ran down to the garage full of hope and expectation-buckled up the seat belt and turned the key............and you can surmise the outcome. Darn. Thanks again for your tireless efforts, I NEED to get this car going. Previous to this I drove a 2002 Jag XKR convertible which never gave me any trouble. I paid a LOT of $$ for it. But, that was 2 years ago before the Vegas realty market crashed. Going from an XKR to a Metro is not too much fun but, right now I need to get mobile to run my job. Bumming rides is a real pain.
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