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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1696 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 11:26 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: annielulu (May 27, 2009 9:46 pm) |
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The car is a convertible. I don't know if any ignition switch work or under dash wiring was ever done. The co that made the coil also made a lot of the other parts. Looks like a Japanese company (subcontractor or whatever). The key problem is only of recent vintage. I really think that it doesn't have anything to do with the current problem. Just that when the battery is low, it seems not to kick off the key when you attempt to shut the engine off. Maybe something to do with not having enough juice to do it or whatever. Anyway, the car ran for over 1 1/2 years without any key problems before all this started. As soon as I can get my roommate to work the key, I will measure the coil spark length, color, etc and report back. Many thanks.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 27, 2009 10:54 pm) Nippondenso is one of the largest automotive electrical suppliers in the world. It is owned by Toyota; and Geo (Suzuki) uses lots of their parts. They make top quality stuff. |
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I'll check the coil spark as soon as I can get my roommate to turn the key. How would the key mess up the starting?? Not making some kind of connection/contact or something like that. Then, is there any way I could jump the wires or something like that at the key switch (like on TV) to see if it is in fact the key (provided the coil spark is ok). I don't know anything about voltmeters and never used or saw one. I probably could learn to use it for this problem if I could be walked through it. I learned to fly small planes and gliders since I moved here 13 years ago, but I am not Mr Technology when it comes to electrical stuff. If most people were like me, we'd probably still be living in caves. |
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Zaken1: OK, The spark was at least 3/4 inch to about 1 inch in length at maximum. It seemed about as big around as the stem on a Q TIP. The color was a golden yellowish mixture. very little blue except at the very tip. It seemed to be a strong spark as it jumped over to a closer piece of metal as I pulled it away from its first contact point. Made a good crackling sound. No extraneous noise from the coil itself. I guess this rules the ignition switch out as a problem? Recap: new timing belt and properly timed, new rotor, cap and plug wires, new plugs. Pulled 15 amp fuse to check possible over fueling-result-negative, all wiring connections tight, battery new, checked compression #1 cylinder at TDC-good compression. Only thing else I can think of is the ignition module, but you have said in a previous post they rarely fail. Engine just turns, doesn't attempt to start or even sputter, etc.
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Still attempting to get 95 1.0L to run right- see former posts... I think I have finally found the culprit, after replacing TB and about everything that attaches to it. As far as I can tell, this is the first time I have EVER seen this: The pole piece teeth have pieces broken off and sticking to the pickup coil, which is scarred and gouged! Under this condition spark would be erratic at best- no wonder starting and idling are crummy. Can't feel any wobble in the shaft, so I'm assuming that some know-it-all adjusted the pickup air gap to zero. Something to look for in a used car from now on....
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Replying to: annielulu (May 28, 2009 1:32 am) It could be possible to bypass the ignition switch; but it would require figuring out which terminals or wires to use; and probably taking the covers off the steering column. A wiring diagram would also be highly desirable in such a situation. A wiring diagram could be found at a good public library. There is one at a library in my area. But all this stuff is extremely time consuming; and potentially frustrating. So the question really comes down to whether saving the last possible cent is more important than saving your time and patience. A new ignition switch from Rock Auto online is about $200; but there are few enough wires in the harness that bypassing the switch is not too formidable a task. However; you would at least need a 12 volt test light; if not a meter. A new coil is $27 from Rock Auto online. I expect it is far more likely that the ignition switch is bad, rather than the coil; but I couldn't guarantee that. So please tell me how you want to deal with this: 1> Take it to a shop. 2> Buy a new coil because it is the cheapest option and hope it fixes it. 3> Buy a new ignition switch. 4> Buy a test light or a meter, and try bypassing the ignition switch; which may also require getting some soldering or crimping equipment and a wiring diagram. |
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Replying to: shaggyman1 (May 28, 2009 7:17 am)
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Replying to: zaken1 (May 28, 2009 10:21 am) I replaced the distributor (and cap & rotor for the third time!), and put in a new set of plugs. I get spark at all cylinders through either one or two rotations- then nothing. Same for coil- fires either 3 or 6 times, then squat. I suspect this might have been taking place for a while, as it would start when first pushed, but not while cranking. If it didn't start on the first clutch pop, it would refuse until ignition was cycled on and off. And it would not start in second- only first or reverse. Could the crankshaft rotation sensor have a dead spot, and only report rotation over 500 RPM or something? Maybe this is a Metro with a Gremlin......
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Zaken1 I'm going to try a new coil and see what happens. Thanks very much.
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